dlw
Member Since: 03 Dec 2014
Location: Wellingborough
Posts: 374
  
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I've heard that too, I have noticed that when I switched to econ the air gets a bit colder, if the mixer was broken wouldn't the cold air be going somewhere or would it only turn on when in the correct position?
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 5th Sep 2015 7:36 am |
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grahamk
Member Since: 28 Feb 2010
Location: Dumgoyne
Posts: 1473
 
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I am not sure where it would go to be honest 3 Flash Indicators
Clock on Dash
GVIF & Reverse Camera
D4 Bluetooth
EGR's Blanked
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| 5th Sep 2015 8:12 am |
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lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
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Again I could be wrong but in most modern cars the air flows through the evaporator rad in the dash regardless whether a/c is on or off, I think coolant is the same but guess there must be some sort of bypass for when you want cold air?
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| 5th Sep 2015 8:23 am |
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MDJ
Member Since: 23 Mar 2017
Location: Sydney
Posts: 4
  
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Interested in any experiences with a failed refrigerant pressure sensor.
2010 D4 3.0ltr with 160,000km, rear air
Air con cooling poor/intermittent recently.
Non LR specialist with more generic scan tool reported fluctuating system pressures potentially pointing to a/c compressor fault, perhaps just low gas. Called in external a/c specialist who hooked up to low and high pressure ports and diagnosed compressor fault due to pressure differences. Didn't do any further work evacuating and recharging the system so didn't assess gas level - was confident it was compressor fault (kindly no charge)
Decided to get a second opinion from local LR indy specialist (autologic scan tool) before outlaying the big $. They did system evac and recharge, down about 300gr gas apparently. Reported continued pressure irregularities after recharge, advised new compressor required.
Regas resulted in perhaps a little colder when blowing cool air. Compressor is engaging when a/c switched on, low pressure line is cold, vent temps can feel close to "normal" but not consistently...just unreliable/intermittent.
About to bite the bullet when read the workshop manual and learned about the refrigerant pressure sensor. Neither repairer has been particularly interested in the oily dirt build up on the high pressure line on both sides of the pressure sensor and surrounds - a closer look indicates this is definitely the source
Workshop manual lists "refrigerant pressure sensor fault" as a possible cause of "poor or no cooling"
Anyone had a similar experience?
Is it just a leak or a symptom of a failed sensor?
Can I isolate a sensor fault as source of irregular pressures? I don't have a scan tool.
Can I change the sensor without evac of system?
Sensor is about $A100, local quotes start at $A1500 plus labour for new compressor....and I still have an obvious leak from the sensor that needs addressing anyway.
Currently thinking its worth changing out the sensor even if requires system vac and recharge.
Any further thoughts and help greatly appreciated.
Cheers
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| 2nd Dec 2017 8:52 am |
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MDJ
Member Since: 23 Mar 2017
Location: Sydney
Posts: 4
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Thanks to DiscoJeffster learned of the variable displacement sensor kit over the weekend.
What sort of mileage are people getting from the a/c compressor before bearings start to fail?
Cheers
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| 4th Dec 2017 12:44 am |
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Flapper
Member Since: 04 Feb 2015
Location: Gloucester
Posts: 329
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Hi
I have a similar issue mine is full of gas yet the compressor refuses to pump, If I look at my iid tool the compressor amp it go from 0 amps to 240 amp then back to 0 amps also in the dash I can hear a flap opening and closing which causes the blows to pulse a bit, could this be causing the compressor to start and stop?
F
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| 11th Jun 2018 1:47 pm |
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