Member Since: 17 Apr 2019
Location: red river, nm
Posts: 16
Air Suspension Connector Location and
Hi all,
Getting code C1A34-01 (AF) Rear right corner valve - General failure information - general electrical failure
I need to check continuity of wiring to the valve block. I know where the valve block end of the wire is obviously, but am unsure of location of the C0377 - C0391 connection.
Or would I be better off to just go straight to the air suspension control module and test from there? In the event I dont have continuity i'm assuming I would then still move the the mystery connection location to check.
Related - I just got a Power Probe and am wondering if its safe to send 12V to the valve block using the probe, in order to put air into the right rear bag. I don't understand how the bag gets to normal ride height on its own, yet i throw the fault code and am unable to raise the corner using Gap IID tool. Is the air getting to the bag via the cross link valve? Is there a way to monitor that with the Gap IID tool?
6th Nov 2019 12:33 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10361
to raise the rear corner, why don't you run a temporary wire between the ecu and air block.
You can also do a continuity check at the same time,
6th Nov 2019 1:04 pm
highlands
Member Since: 11 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5095
Member Since: 17 Apr 2019
Location: red river, nm
Posts: 16
I'll try that, thank you. I don't have a jumper wire that long thats handy but i do have the power probe, was hoping to just activate the valve solenoid with it as i can send 12V to the valve block with the flick of a switch. But to be on the safe side, the temp wire is probably a better move.
As far as the connector i cant find i did stumble on this post just now, https://www.aulro.com/afvb/archive/index.php/t-172607.html , where the location is described as "The connector is under the N/S/R wheel arch behind the air spring, hidden behind a cover and a whole load of mud...!!"
N/S/R (near side rear??) I'm LHD so i'm assuming thats the same general area as the rear valve block...
6th Nov 2019 1:13 pm
juanbass
Member Since: 17 Apr 2019
Location: red river, nm
Posts: 16
thanks highlands!!
6th Nov 2019 1:14 pm
kels83
Member Since: 26 Aug 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 11
I recently rebuilt my rear valve block on my 2006 LR3 left hand drive. I had to remove the spare tire to get access. It looks just like the front valve and is located on the inside of a cross member on the left (driver) side of the vehicle. Look for 3 air supply lines that trace to it.
If you're going to remove the valve block (can't imagine having room to work on it in place) I found a rebuild kit with new o-rings on ebay. These o-rings are easy to replace and are likely pants after all these years. There are also valves with o-rings inside this valve block that can get stuck. Or pick up an assortment of metric o-rings from a parts store and find sizes that fit.
Lastly, since the air spring can inflate to normal height, consider if your issue is due to an algorithm comparing the height sensor and air pressure on that corner. Is the height sensor on that corner working? Is the system calibrated? The GAP IID tool has a suspension calibration procedure that might be worth a go in your situation.
6th Nov 2019 4:25 pm
juanbass
Member Since: 17 Apr 2019
Location: red river, nm
Posts: 16
So I have determined that the NEG wire(brown/orange, pin 10) for the right rear valve has a short somewhere between the control module and the C0377 connector. I cannot see any damage so I guess the fun begins of trying to follow the sucker. I also see a nick in the wire on pin 18 near the C0377 connector but cant ID what wire that is from my wire diagram. Any help?
edit: Also, valve block is new and i have done the calibration with my Gap tool.____________________________
2006 LR3 223,000 mi
2008 LR3 77,000 mi
7th Nov 2019 11:06 pm
Martin Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18448
Pin 18 is the compressor motor temperature sensor reference (Ground)06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
Any issues with the site let me know!
7th Nov 2019 11:16 pm
highlands
Member Since: 11 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5095
I'm assuming I have a ground fault somewhere!
Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
Grey 05 TDV6 HSE Auto (Gone)
54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
8th Nov 2019 12:27 am
highlands
Member Since: 11 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5095
But not consistent
Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
Grey 05 TDV6 HSE Auto (Gone)
54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
8th Nov 2019 12:33 am
juanbass
Member Since: 17 Apr 2019
Location: red river, nm
Posts: 16
thank you Martin
highlands - gotta be honest, I know i'm looking at Gap IID Live Values but thats the extent of it! wish i knew how to interpret those!
so whats my move going forward? do I need to remove the harness and inspect inch by inch? am I better off to try a product like a Power Probe ECT3000 Short/Open Electrical Circuit Tester?____________________________
2006 LR3 223,000 mi
2008 LR3 77,000 mi
8th Nov 2019 1:40 am
highlands
Member Since: 11 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5095
Sorry to muddy your thread...I've had my own suspension fault come up since initially contributing to the thread.
The voltage readings for the sensors are throwing up impossible figures - they should have a supply voltage of 4.9V and give a normal reading from the sensor of around 1.2V IIRC at normal height.
Anyway, my readings of 74V suggest that I have my own wiring issues, which is indeed the case.
I need to knock up some vinegar/salt as per https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-pe...n-minutes/ to clean up some of the wires.
What seems to have happened with mine is the insulation is holed and the wires have corroded.
Unless it's through flexing, it looks like someone may have used a probe, or a needle (same result) that pierced the insulation and it has allowed corrosion to set in.
Rather than do it piecemeal I'm minded not to just use solder/heatshrink to bypass all the wires on the connectors in the wheel arches. Once access is obtained they don't take long to do.
I'd suggest if you have a nick in any wire then it is worth cutting and stripping back and making a new, clean, connection.
As for the reservoir and exhaust valves, I believe, are nominal 12V and pull around 1-1.5A of current when operating - I'd do the wires first though.Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
Grey 05 TDV6 HSE Auto (Gone)
54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
8th Nov 2019 2:48 am
juanbass
Member Since: 17 Apr 2019
Location: red river, nm
Posts: 16
So wire loom from the air susp control module to the wheel well runs inside the cab, at first i thought it was the same as the one under the vehicle that goes to compressor and beyond, its not.. The one in the cab is harder to follow, as just forward of the rear wheel well it goes under the floor (under a panel that is beneath the carpet) and i'm not sure how to get at it without removing seats and everything.
Any tips? I'm considering just running a new wire and stuffing it where ever i can make it disappear and stay relatively safe.
I also discovered the area in the rear right passenger foot well to be quite wet. no clue where that is coming in as its the only wet spot.____________________________
2006 LR3 223,000 mi
2008 LR3 77,000 mi
11th Nov 2019 1:54 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10361
If you remove the bottom B pillar trim. You can then remove the sill protection strips
and see wiring inside the car.
It may make it easier to run a wire from this point? assuming its good at that point.
You probably need to cut it, once you are sure it;s the wire for suspension and not something else
11th Nov 2019 1:13 pm
juanbass
Member Since: 17 Apr 2019
Location: red river, nm
Posts: 16
found my problem. fully corroded wire under left foot area. fixed it. put everything back together and the damn thing threw the same code accept this time for the rear left corner (C1A33). I must have either knocked something loose or there was damage that i missed on another wire. of course i put all the trim back on before i started her up to check... at least i know what i'm doing this time around. just need to check the chart and find out which pins/wire i'm looking for.
there was a lot of water (ice as its quite cold). I'm not sure if i have a sunroof drain leak or if all that water was from me getting in and out with wet fishing waders/boots on. my understanding is that the elbow where the hose goes to the exterior fails but that is intact and fitted properly. i may try and blow out the line with air.
thanks pete i didnt realize the plastic that covers the loom came out that easy.
____________________________
2006 LR3 223,000 mi
2008 LR3 77,000 mi
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