Member Since: 09 Mar 2009
Location: Littleborough
Posts: 2109
I've not had an alternator fail on a D3 but I've had two go on my previous Defender Td5 and one on a Disco 1.
The Disco (300tdi) one went very noisy due to bearing failure and I just replaced it, there was no loss of charging though.
Both the Defender ones failed to charge due to badly worn brushes, in both cases the failure was fairly sudden and mainly due to ingress of mud rather than "service time/miles", once the brush has worn to the point where it no longer makes contact, the battery light comes on and the demise of the battery is inevitable and relatively swift (about 10 miles in my case,) there was no warning before the alternator failed.Clive
I spoke to my local dealer re local vehicle alternator failure modes, and he was puzzled as to the question.
He said that the alternators rarely fail here in the Prairies of Western Canada; in Eastern Canada, yes, it is a different story - alternator failure is common and it is atributed to the salting of the roads in the winter - High humidity and salt air so to speak during the winter months.
In Western Canada, our primary problem is not electrical, but front end problems - lots of ball joints and associated front end stuff due to the rough roads and -40C weather.
When the alternator does quit, (Denso part number 104210-3690 or Land Rover YLE500390), the dealer says it may be the internal brushes, (some Denso alternators do not have brushes), or the bearings seizing up; nothing was said about the internal regulator failing however.
When the alternator is working full load, it put out a lot of power; 150 amps at 12VDC apparently. To me, this thing is seems closer to a dynamo one would find in a power plant, or at least in a highway tractor. The LR3 continues to amaze me - for such a physically small vehicle, like the brakes, every mechanical component in it is big.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
31st Jul 2010 1:38 am
Bushwanderer
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
For some time, my D3 has sat without contact with me.
Recently, I tried to start it (in order to shift it to a position where I could use the jack to replace a flat). The motor would sluggishly turn over, but wouldn't fire.
I got the local road service (NRMA) out to give me a jump start.
When the service guy arrived, he first checked the battery voltage (11.3V). He then connected the jumper leads (you could hear the change in his vehicle revs as his alternator took the load ). After giving it some time to charge my battery, I attempted to start and it fired up just like normally.
He checked the alternator output and he was amazed to see that it was 120A.
My D3 is now 5yrs old and it looks like the battery and alternator are still going strong (where's the fingers-crossed emoticon).
Best wishe,
Peter
PS: He also stayed to help me change my flat tyre, even though I hadn't mentioned it when I called it in. All in all, very happy with the NRMA service. The Bearded Dragon
I noted that there are two part numbers for the D3 alternator for the 4.4V8, YLE500190 and YLE500390.
I wondered what the difference was between the two units. It would not be the mounting bolt holes so I wondered if it were amps.
I have on some web sites seen the alternator rated at 120 amps, but most suppliers show the unit at 150 amps and infer that the two part numbers are interchangeable. I wonder if that is so?
Also may I assume that the diesel 3's use a different alternator part number?2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
1st Aug 2010 4:48 am
Geoff Rogers
Member Since: 06 Mar 2006
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 19
Alternator Failure (sudden).
G'day,
Disco3, MY05, 111,000Km, today the battery light came on. Off to the Dealer, diagnosis is a failed Alternator. Apparently diodes are stuffed. New one ordered. Seems a rather sudden failure.
Earlier posts have several with 05 builds also having Alternator failures. Maybe a trend developing here
The day before the failure, drove 400Km on the open highway (110kph) with headlights on. Car started OK this morning when to Battery lamp came on. Do the headlights create a huge drain?? (xenons). Any clues anyone as to why the alternator failed suddenly?
Almost all alternator failures seem sudden. They either make electricity or they do not.
If the failure mode relates to the bearings, then maybe one can hear it prior to seizure, either bearing noise or the "fan" belt singing due to the rotational force to turn the alternator pully increasing - that is if you are lucky.
When the diodes or whatever electrical it is in there fails, the failure mode is like a light bulb, it works until it quits and soon you are in the dark and walking. Well with a diesel, maybe not, but with our V8 gasoline engines here and daytime running lights, walking is the result.
I would doubt that your use of your headlights the day previous had anything to due with the next day failure. Here in Canada, our headlights are always on and in Eastern Canada, alternator diode failure nearing 120,000 km is common, whereas in the West, not such a certainty. The Dealers think it has something to do with the weather - dry in the West, high humidity in the East.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
24th Aug 2010 4:10 pm
DerfelUK
Member Since: 02 Aug 2010
Location: Ruthin
Posts: 5
Diodes ???
@Geoff Rogers
Just a few days ago same thing on MY05 TDV6, OK in the evening when parked up in Wales UK (damp and moist all year) but the following morning, battery light stays on!
Took it in to local independent and he too suggests faulty diodes. But he wants £300 plus tax to fix. Seems a bit much for a couple of diodes. Where can these be sourced and have you done the job?
Do you have any advice?
Thanks
26th Sep 2010 4:53 pm
bluebarchetta
Member Since: 25 Oct 2005
Location: Aylesbury
Posts: 524
Mine failed at 70k and one of my colleagues at work has just failed too. At 70k....
26th Sep 2010 10:21 pm
wslr
Member Since: 21 Feb 2010
Location: Somerset/Devon
Posts: 39
They do fail and from past experience they can't be rebuilt. Not sure why, but a customer took the removed alternator down to a rebuilder in Exeter only to be told they can't be fixed.
The replacement units are cheap enough when compaired to other LR models. Replacement isn't as easy as it could be though (although as BBS/Colin says, much easier than the L322 M62 type which involved radiator and frontal cooling system pipework removed).
Maybe the £300 quoted earlier was for a replacement unit (LR Exchange) and fitting? For the TDV6 the Service Repair is 86.10.02 and is just 0.6 hours labour on the LR book time.
26th Sep 2010 10:33 pm
DerfelUK
Member Since: 02 Aug 2010
Location: Ruthin
Posts: 5
I forgot to say that mine has done 55k miles. The 300 did include a reconditioned unit at 160 plus 2hours labour. These are specialist LR Independants so should be up to speed. I wonder why they quoted me 2 hours if LR allow 0.6?
I have done a search on the forum for links to Workshop Manual job 86.10.02, but all I get is the index of the manual. Does anyone have and is prepared to share the manual sheets for replacing the alternator.
I would like to do the job myself, learn and save a bit too!
Below is a link related to alternator replacement.
The hard part is getting the fan off.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic54774.h...eplacement2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
27th Sep 2010 12:34 am
Renton
Member Since: 13 Jan 2009
Location: Somewhere in the middle
Posts: 1718
wslr wrote:
They do fail and from past experience they can't be rebuilt. Not sure why, but a customer took the removed alternator down to a rebuilder in Exeter only to be told they can't be fixed.
You have been misinformed. The Denso alternators can be refurbed cheap and easy.CLUB ILLEGAL CAR WASHERS
27th Sep 2010 9:11 am
tlt
Member Since: 02 Sep 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 262
I know it's an old thread... Renton would you care to elaborate on that cheap and easy refurbish you mentioned there.
15th May 2011 1:50 am
cja1579
Member Since: 30 Nov 2009
Location: Kendal, Cumbria
Posts: 96
Just changed mine today, 2005 D3 with 67000 miles, paid £155+VAT (£186) for an exchange unit. Its taken me about 4 hours to fit mainly because I could not get the viscous fan off, ended up pulling it out of the drivers side wheel arch. JE Remap, De-cat, Blanked EGR's, Allisport intercooler, Samco intercooler hoses, D4 rear lights, A bar, Big spot lights, Front headlight guards, 20'' Stormer wheels,
15th May 2011 11:53 pm
nigel207
Member Since: 26 Mar 2009
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 1344
"On the home screen hold your finger against the centre of the top for 5 seconds, then press the left button below the screen. Release and the code pad will appear. Code = 753"
I have done this, but I can't see how to check the voltage. There's info re the Sat Nav, and under Self Check - "No faults", Manual Check - still can't find how to check the voltage.
I know I'm not the brightest button, but.............. Please enlighten me.
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
). After giving it some time to charge my battery, I attempted to start and it fired up just like normally.
(where's the fingers-crossed emoticon).
