FWIW, the only report on this site & RRS of the theft of all wheels from a LR is of expensive aftermarket bling 22" wheels from a RRS parked in London without lockers, and I'll wager that even if they had had such, the existence of tools like Dynomec wouldn't have altered the outcome.Time flies like an arrow; fruit flies like a banana
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
30th Jun 2012 6:30 pm
funky_monk_flying
Member Since: 21 May 2012
Location: uxbridge
Posts: 67
sorry , how rude
a BIG thank you to Bodsy for pointing out the need to get rid of the pieces of rusty poo-poo before i had to change a wheel !
4th Jul 2012 12:01 am
johnboy3
Member Since: 24 Oct 2010
Location: northamptonshire
Posts: 190
I have this problem every day at work . I have used all sorts of tools but only do it one way now that is weld on an other wheel bolt & unscrew it with that. And this is done with no damage to the alloy. I use carboard over the plastic centre cap & spray anti-spatter all around.
5th Jul 2012 8:10 pm
luciogodoy
Member Since: 14 Apr 2008
Location: Windsor - UK
Posts: 356
Hi all
I wish I new about this issue before having it!
I went to service the rear near-side brake, and on the process of removing the lock, it started to slip. I noticed that the cap was split in almost half, so I done the following:
1 - Removed the alloy cap,
2 - Then I stated hammering a 15mm socket and tried to remove the lock - not enough bite!
3 - Then I switched to a 14mm socket - again a bit more bite but not enough
4 - Then I switched to 3/8 and used superglue to lock the socket to the lock, and it worked like a treat.
Simple solution, combined with a tighter grip from smaller socket and the superglue helped me to remove the lock.
Sometimes we forget how strong superglue is!
I'm riding a R1250GSA Triple Back
Previous love: Disco 3 HSE MY07, D4 heated Steering/W, D4 rear cluster, D4 extended roof rack, D4 grille & air grille, D4 rear bumper, colour coded arches + front bumper, side-steps, Webasto timer/ remote control, De-Tangoed Xenon headlights + HID, LEDs all around, reverse CAM (RR hack) + brightness, DLR LEDs, 3-click indicator, SatNav on the move, EGR's done, front/rear antiroll bar Polybush, gearbox pan/filter + oil mega-flush.
24th Nov 2013 10:42 am
Damon Hallsworth
Member Since: 07 Nov 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 30
Picking up on this old thread, but i too today have experienced the exact same thing . I gave up after about Half hour and decided to wait until i could purchase new nuts. I'm gonna ditch the locking nuts for ordinary ones.
Cant tell you how relieved i was to find this thread and the various methods used, some successful & some not.
Ill post my results when I'm done. Good or Bad.
Last edited by Damon Hallsworth on 14th Dec 2014 5:55 pm. Edited 1 time in total
2nd Dec 2014 1:08 pm
luciogodoy
Member Since: 14 Apr 2008
Location: Windsor - UK
Posts: 356
Hey Damon
Good luck!
be careful in don damaging your wheel on the process i used some making tape to protect the "nut" area when removing the cap.
LucioI'm riding a R1250GSA Triple Back
Previous love: Disco 3 HSE MY07, D4 heated Steering/W, D4 rear cluster, D4 extended roof rack, D4 grille & air grille, D4 rear bumper, colour coded arches + front bumper, side-steps, Webasto timer/ remote control, De-Tangoed Xenon headlights + HID, LEDs all around, reverse CAM (RR hack) + brightness, DLR LEDs, 3-click indicator, SatNav on the move, EGR's done, front/rear antiroll bar Polybush, gearbox pan/filter + oil mega-flush.
2nd Dec 2014 1:18 pm
Damon Hallsworth
Member Since: 07 Nov 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 30
Cheers Lucio. Lots of gaffer tape me thinks.
2nd Dec 2014 1:41 pm
Apache
Member Since: 17 Oct 2011
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 691
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d to get off, we have all the keys available as well.
...idea FMF
