Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
The best method I found is detailed above. Clean out the crud so the cam can operate properly and my problem went away.
If your cable is sticking, try using a can of spray oil with a straw type tube to get as close to the cable end as possible whilst working the cable.
Be aware though, I thought my cable was sticking and it was only the crud preventing the cam working properly.
Also be aware that anything sticky or greasy on the mechanism may attract and hold the very crud you're trying to avoid so I'm going with the occasional squirt of WD40 whenever I open the bonnet.Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
10th Jun 2017 9:57 am
NickJ
Member Since: 11 Oct 2010
Location: there's no f in point
Posts: 2137
One catch cleaned today, second one to be done tomorrow. Very satisfying to see it clean.
Have decided to use a PTFE spray into the catch mechanism plus a small smear of grease on the part that grabs the 'D' loop of the bonnet
So, 20 minutes this evening & job done, under bonnet section of the release cable replaced, sorted!
I didn't take any photos for a how to as it really is that simple.
You need a T30 torx a flat blade screwdriver and that's about it.
Release the bonnet, remove the front grill (Press the four catches on the top of the grill & ease forwards slightly, then lower down on the left & right side of the grill are two more clips, gentley lift these up & pull the grill towards you).
Starting on the left side (vehicle facing you) loosen & remove the two T30 screws. Make sure to keep hold of the shim plate behind the bonnet catch before it drops
Gently ease the catch forwards & release the electrical cable to the bonnet switch by squeezing the tab on the connector & pull.
You can now ease the cable sheath from the catch, then unclip the cable from the catch lever itself.
The cable can now be pulled back through infront of the radiator. There are three clips that the cable is held in with. One is close to the entry point for the left catch, then one either side of the radiator.
Now undo the two T30 screws for the right catch. Remember the shim plate, there is no switch this side to worry about. You can now unclip the cable sheath from both the left & right side of the catch & then unclip from the catch lever.
Pull the cable through towards connector box on the inner wing opposite the FBH.
Push the two clips on the connector box inward to release the hinged cover. A swift tug pulls the connector from the inner wing, it has two fixing points. Then you can unhook the lower release cable from the connector box.
To fit the new cable, feed it through from right to left of the vehicle so it's roughly in place. Now attach the cable to the left catch & refit. Working left to right ensure the cable is back in the clips infront of the radiator. Now attach the cable to the right catch & refit. Locate the lower cable into the connector box on the end of the upper cable, snap closed the cover on the box, locate the two lugs of the connector box into the two holes on the inner wing & push until it clips into place.
The LR part number is FSE000091 It should be around £13 quid.
Once fitted, you can align by sight both catches for a snug fit by inspecting how the bonnet catch hoops locate into the catch by looking up through where the grill should be. Once happy, refit the grill. close the bonnet, job done.
I only applied a very slight amount of grease to just the movement on the catch, nothing else.
It appears to me that my problem was the cable dragging in the sheath, hence the left catch cam not returning as it should. This seemed to be caused by a build up of grease/oil/muck in the sheath, it was worse in the colder winter months than the summer when the oil was more viscous. With a new cable the cams on the catch snap back into place immediately & you can feel there is far less resistance on the cable when you pull the lever from the passengers footwell.
Simple little post that someone might find helpful.
Cheers MY16 D4 Landmark SDV6 (The Ice Maiden)
Uncle Ray's spare wheel protector
MY08 D3 HSE Stornoway (Miss Moneypit) The money tree withered......
5th Oct 2017 10:10 pm
jh972
Member Since: 19 Feb 2007
Location: Sydney
Posts: 37
Exactly the post I was looking forfar the same problem - except not the solution I need.
After 250000k, no dirt or crud on either catch, and the screwdriver test (I used rod the same diameter as the catch) only proved the catch works fine. Vertical position of the adjustment is fine too, as bonnet hook goes to bottom of the grooves in catch, but just doesn't lock. (If you remove the grille you can see the catch).
Ans I will definitely grease mine, even if it means more cleaning, because I suspect the problem is wear on the loop.2007 TDV6 SE Stornoway Gray
Llams Ride Height Controller, Traxide dual battery system,
10th Nov 2017 4:39 am
Beretta
Member Since: 11 Oct 2012
Location: Rochdale
Posts: 1180
I have this issue, near side keeps popping open, and is hard to latch so this is my job for the weekend.
Always amazes me this forum, a few words in the search gives you the answers you need.
10th Nov 2017 9:44 am
Beretta
Member Since: 11 Oct 2012
Location: Rochdale
Posts: 1180
Amazing what 10mins can do.
Before
and after
11th Nov 2017 12:38 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
Is it working correctly now?Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
11th Nov 2017 12:40 pm
Beretta
Member Since: 11 Oct 2012
Location: Rochdale
Posts: 1180
Yep No more loose bonnet, and it secures with a slight slam.
I used WD40, and a screw driver to break it all down, and then as I was washing the car at the time I used the hose pipe to swill all the crap away, then more WD40 after hence the after picture is so wet.
13th Nov 2017 5:07 pm
Jumper9895
Member Since: 10 Jun 2015
Location: Swanmore, Southampton
Posts: 226
Bonnet full house!
Thanks for guide Narpy...... my saga started with nearside of bonnet not latching....... went to do the ‘ degrease’ as per your post and found bonnet wouldn’t stay up..... ordered two new gas struts........ completed the clean and file options (bonnet now latching both sides with just slight pressure on each front corner, and then found the ‘bonnet open’ light flashing so now ordered new switch/ catch assembly............ Land Rovers, don’t you just love them!Best Regards,
Dave.
[URL=][/URL]
19th Nov 2018 8:26 pm
Pwd3
Member Since: 28 Nov 2017
Location: Toronto
Posts: 10
MY16 D4 Landmark SDV6 (The Ice Maiden)
Uncle Ray's spare wheel protector
MY08 D3 HSE Stornoway (Miss Moneypit) The money tree withered......
5th Feb 2019 6:26 pm
Pwd3
Member Since: 28 Nov 2017
Location: Toronto
Posts: 10
Replacing the section of the 2 piece bonnet cable that runs from the wing to the latches was the most important fix that allowed both catches to operate properly - for me.
24th Apr 2019 11:18 am
oldstout
Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: North East England
Posts: 247
Excellent guide @Narpy
Just topped up my screenwash and bonnet refuses to lockdown shut..
Just thawing out wirh a coffee and my tablet so back out with some rags, WD, and a screwdriver next.
Cheers You can't educate pork...
13th Apr 2020 3:43 pm
oldstout
Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: North East England
Posts: 247
Well, after a decent coffee break including scoffing half of one of the kids' easter eggs I went out and sorted both latches in less than 10 mins.
I used WD40 with the 'straw', along with some cotton buds. Stopped the crud dropping with some kitchen towel, job done, latches like new again!
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Land Rovers, don’t you just love them!
