Member Since: 26 Nov 2008
Location: on the east side
Posts: 541
Brake line replacement how hard is it ?
Good morning All.
I will be in the process of replacing all control arms and associated rods, stabilizers and arb bushings. Will probably replace a brake rubber lines immediately adjacent to rotors and control arms.
My question is how tricky, tedious or downright impossible to replace hard coated Genuine brake lines starting at the back going over a rear diff and towards the center. Those rear lines look awfully long as the are one part one each side and tricky to maneuver and install in one piece. Has anybody done it ?
Thanks in advance.
16th Mar 2019 2:01 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4400
I'm in the middle of it now! Just stopped for a bite of lunch.
I measured out about 2m of brake pipe for each side, brings it to the area above the centre exhaust box. Will update you later Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
16th Mar 2019 2:09 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4400
Ps, I'm making the new pipes with copper, and brass fittings, not using genuine steel pipes.Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
16th Mar 2019 2:12 pm
highlands
Member Since: 11 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5095
Done it on each of my 3 D3s.
Not too bad, but was quite a bit trickier routing around the rear AC pipes on the latest one.Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
Grey 05 TDV6 HSE Auto (Gone)
54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
16th Mar 2019 3:26 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4628
Its not difficult, and will be made easier by replacing everything, rather than trying to save partially rusted or seized pipe and fittings.
Copper pipes will be much easier to flare than using steel. You would need a extra strong flaring tool if you're going to use steel pipe. Replace the flexi hoses, retainer clips, and flared fittings also.
Copper pipe although softer will withstand corrosion far longer than steel.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
16th Mar 2019 3:36 pm
thorgal
Member Since: 26 Nov 2008
Location: on the east side
Posts: 541
Thanks all,
I was thinking about copper coil to form around but figured I will ask first if it is even possible to replace with Genuine on the driveway.
RRHOOL what made you to switch from Genuine to cooper ? General hard access or something else ?
16th Mar 2019 10:34 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4400
I imagine replacing front to rear pipes with genuine would be near on impossible. There are loads of posts on here about joining the brake pipes from the middle. Copper is so easy to work with, and will outlast the rest of the car!
I finished mine last night, bled the brakes, all good Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
17th Mar 2019 9:00 am
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Its actually Kunifer you want not copper, copper brake pipes are banned in many countries.
17th Mar 2019 9:03 am
thorgal
Member Since: 26 Nov 2008
Location: on the east side
Posts: 541
i sort of suspected that fitting new Genuine lines might be a site or downright impossible.I just thought that somebody actually did it despite difficulty level.I bet it is a lot easier task with body off
18th Mar 2019 1:44 pm
Martin Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18448
There is the "service repair" option from LR which cuts/joins the pipes. You can buy repair pipes (LR056967/LR056968) - still steel though.
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26700
Actually as it happens, I’m just making and fitting a complete vehicle set of brake pipes and flexibles on my S2a rebuild. Of course it’s no where near as complex as a D3/4, but the pipe making and laying principles are the same.
Use a pipe bending tool. No need to spend a fortune. Mine came from Eurocarparts and cost about 8 quid! It’s great. Make sure it can do 180 bends, some only go to 90.
Use copper (equivalent) pipe. It’s very easy to work with, and if you get it wrong you can anneal with a little heat (just enough to make it too hot to touch) and bend it again, unlike steel which will break.
I like brass fittings, but then again it’s a 51 year old vehicle so brass looks correct. You can get BZP fittings.
Use zip ties to temporarily hold the pipes to visualise which way the bends need to go.
Some bends are very shallow, in which case don’t use the bending tool, use something round, which is about the radius you want to achieve. I used a coffe flask to get some bends today!! You can also free hand bend to get the pipe just right when it’s nearly there.
Here’s some pictures.
18th Mar 2019 5:24 pm
thorgal
Member Since: 26 Nov 2008
Location: on the east side
Posts: 541
Thanks a lot guys !!
Did not realized that we could get a repair kit from LR. Well see..
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