Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4655
Hmm not familiar with that file format but I thought rex were audio. Still, you could go back into live values again and take a screen shot with your phone of the data on the scanner and post that.
By the way, which iCarsoft are you using?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
27th May 2019 6:43 pm
adri123
Member Since: 21 Oct 2017
Location: UK
Posts: 163
iCarSoft LR2. It gives live data.
Basically the data was...GP went from 200 up to 1700 in 1.5 mins motor temp stayed at 12, compressor temp went up to 105, Res Valve was 100% and Exh valve 0%.
After 2 mins the compressor stopped and GP dropped to 200 or so.
I've got desperate now and just changed the brake light switch as that seems to cause no end of problems.
no leaks detected at the res valve block.
27th May 2019 7:03 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4655
When you were refurbing the compressor did you remove the cyl head cover to check the seal as per my earlier post?
It seems to me that compressor is working fine but obviously there's a leak somewhere. The alloy in the compressor can corrode at the point where the cyl seal meets the cover plate. (Head gasket if you like)
The live values below show the normal operation of an AMK compressor
CONDITIONS PRIOR TO ACTIVATING THE COMPRESSOR
CONDITIONS DURING FILL CYCLE
The value for the Gallery Pressure will drop back to 180/200kPa once the compressor has reached the desired 1780kPa and shut off!!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
27th May 2019 8:19 pm
adri123
Member Since: 21 Oct 2017
Location: UK
Posts: 163
Yes removed cylinder head and cleaned the o ring. I also popped a smear of silicone around the outside of the o ring on contact surfaces. Thin smear and the silicone is rated to 300+ degrees so should be fine.
I think there's a leak too. So it's a matter of soapy spray job I think. What I do find odd is that yesterday we did the 50 mile trip and no bongs but today I go to the local coop and bong bong bloody bong. If it were a leak surely it would be more predictable and consistent in it's behaviour.
The compressor data you have there looks very similar to mine.
You never know perhaps the brake light switch change has sorted it...
Thanks for the help Prof. V Kind.
27th May 2019 8:42 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4655
You're welcome
I agree your data looks fine the only slight anomaly being the compressor temp! Its a tad high which confirms to me air is escaping. (comp has to work harder to reach its target)
You may need to look at it again to be sure all is as it should be. Also dismantle and clean the res valve block.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
27th May 2019 9:45 pm
adri123
Member Since: 21 Oct 2017
Location: UK
Posts: 163
yep will do.
When I get chance. Busy with work and need the car for that so it's a matter of choosing the right time to do stuff.
If I'm dismantling the blocks would it be an idea to get an o ring kit. I may well end up going through all the blocks on the car.
Cheers
27th May 2019 9:58 pm
adri123
Member Since: 21 Oct 2017
Location: UK
Posts: 163
This mornings observations. Start car. 3 seconds later bong. that's happened twice. Yet the other day we did the 50 mile trip without incident.
Is this consistent with the problem being in one of the valve blocks?
TIA
28th May 2019 8:58 am
adri123
Member Since: 21 Oct 2017
Location: UK
Posts: 163
@profsr g.
About to try the valve block clean.
What would you use to clean it with? Compressed air? Acetone? Water?
I have no idea.
31st May 2019 8:14 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4655
Yeah compressed air will suffice, if there's white crud build up you can use spray oil as well to help loosen it with a brush. A shot of silicone spray or similar on the seals for reassembly will help a good seal.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
31st May 2019 11:41 am
adri123
Member Since: 21 Oct 2017
Location: UK
Posts: 163
Just about to have a go at cleaning/servicing the valve block but in my haines manual it says the voss connector has to be replaced with a new one when refitting.
Is that right?
TIA
1st Jun 2019 2:57 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4655
I have not yet needed to but if you're concerned you might get away with leaving it undisturbed. The valve is a simple affair and easy to clean. The important thing is that the seals are doing their job. Use a lubricant and don't use silicone sealantyµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
1st Jun 2019 3:09 pm
adri123
Member Since: 21 Oct 2017
Location: UK
Posts: 163
Reservoir valve block was as clean as a whistle. Opened it up and cleaned and sprayed with silicone lubricant.
8 miles later...bong!
C1A20 Pressure increasing too slowly.........
Stumped for now.
2nd Jun 2019 10:01 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4655
If you're confident there is no pressure leak from the cyl head or any other part of the compressor. Then you are left with one other possible option given the extent of your endeavours.
Piston/cyl assy is not capable of generating enough pressure in the allocated time calculated by the ECU. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
Last edited by PROFSR G on 2nd Jun 2019 5:53 pm. Edited 1 time in total
2nd Jun 2019 2:53 pm
adri123
Member Since: 21 Oct 2017
Location: UK
Posts: 163
I'm going to have a look at the compressor cylinder head. I'll try to see it when working and test for leaks. I suppose the soapy water thing is the way to find a leak.
2nd Jun 2019 5:35 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4655
Yeah, one last roll of the dice I suspect. If no leaks apparent it will be bite the bullet time!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
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