jnoshea
Member Since: 07 May 2009
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 69
  
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| Can't activate Park Brake Bedding-in procedure |
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My EPB starting squealing on application (not on release) so I thought I would take the advice posted on here a few times of trying the park brake bedding in procedure. The trouble is, that since the EPB squeals on application and then reports a park brake fault system not functional message I can't actually enter the procedure. Here's what should happen right?
Pedal Pedal Pedal (within 10 sec)
Apply Apply Apply Apply Relase Relase Release (within 10 sec)
Park Brake Bedding-in procedure should be activated
What actually happens in my case is
Pedal Pedal Pedal (within 10 sec)
Apply Screeeeeeech (for about 3 sec) Bling Bling 'Park Brake fault system not functional'
...and I can't go any further.
If I blindly continue with the above sequence I end up not being able to move the car because the EPB is then on with an error that won't allow me to release it so I can't do the bedding-in procedure.
Anyone got any suggestions?
Took it the dealer yesterday and they said (without even looking at it) that it would cost £250 to strip and clean.
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 12th May 2009 10:25 am |
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SJR
Member Since: 09 Aug 2006
Location: East Manchester
Posts: 4030
 
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Contact member 10forCash
He is a mobile mechanic specialising in the D3 (he knows more than dealers  ) and is based in Derby.
Would be surprised if it would cost you £250 for him to sort the problem out  I believe that every human has a finite number of heart-beats. I don't intend to waste any of mine running around doing exercises.
Buzz Aldrin (1930 -
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| 12th May 2009 10:36 am |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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BEFORE you do the bedding in procedure, you need to adjust the EPB shoes. Trying to bed in without having made any other adjustment will not fix the screamer. It's screaming because it's over extending and the scream is the clutch mechanism.
See here for details....
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use..._Brake.zip
Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here
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| 12th May 2009 10:43 am |
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jnoshea
Member Since: 07 May 2009
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 69
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Thanks Bodsy for the advice, I'll read that now. And thanks SJR, I've emailed 10forCash to get an idea of the cost.
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| 12th May 2009 10:47 am |
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jnoshea
Member Since: 07 May 2009
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 69
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Well thanks for the advice. I adjusted the parking brake shoes along the lines shown in the workshop manual and the screeching EPB has stopped 
I was a little nervous doing it as this is the first job I've done on the D3 (plenty on the 300 Tdi of course ) but it seems to have cured the screeching and the parking brake holds the car too. Thanks.
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| 12th May 2009 1:47 pm |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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Did you follow the instructions or just go 'along the lines' of the workshop manual?
If you over adjust, then they can bind on & get very hot!
so tighten up until the torque bar reaches 40lb, then move the adjuster back 8 clicks..... Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here
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| 12th May 2009 2:00 pm |
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stapldm
Member Since: 11 Sep 2006
Location: Swine Town
Posts: 2330
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Great work jnoshea, and now you're £250 up, you can buy us all a drink Well, OK, maybe not, but please consider making a small donation to the site to share your good fortune; I only mention it here because I haven't seen any gentle donation reminders to any of the forum members recently 
By the way, as one of the original proponents of fixing a screech by starting (though not necessarily finishing) a bedding in cycle, I have to report I have changed my views.
The sea change was brought about by having a loan car during some warranty work, and I drove a Freelander2 down the same flooded lane that causes all my EPB problems. I managed to get a screech when I put on the handbrake. Yep, a screech on a mechanical handbrake, just like we all had before the EPB. My issue it turns out is that the 'mud' down that particular lane is loaded with a fine sharp grit, and it seems this is reducing the friction in the drums enough for the brake not to hold the car stationary against the engine power whilst idling in Drive. A quick shunt backwards and forwards whilst putting the handbrake on and off fixed the issue, and I had a functional hand brake again. That got me thinking.
When I got my D3 back, I drove the same lane next day and (luckily?) after a few splashy passes up and down recreated my issue. Idling in Drive at some traffic lights, EPB on, foot brake off, car starts to move, followed by the screech as it tightened itself beyond its limits. I pulled into a car park, and then moving gently (and I mean ~= 1MPH) used the EPB to stop the car, forwards, then backwards. Issue sorted, no more screech. I do recall someone here mentioning this technique, I regret I can't find the original post to give them credit.
I now do this to clean my brake shoes of crud, and so far it has worked well. It's a lot less hassle than starting bedding in, and also can be easily worked into a normal car journey (reversing into a space, stopping at lights etc etc) as long as you remember there's a chance the brake won't hold and you therefore choose your moments safely.
I should re-iterate that I firmly believe that my issues are due to contamination of the linings rather than any maladjustment issues. If your shoes are shot [edit] or out of adjustment [/edit] then neither the bedding in procedure nor the above will help you; only the actual re-adjustment that you've done will do that. Dr. Ian Malcolm:
"Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should."
Transgenic tomato anyone?
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| 12th May 2009 2:15 pm |
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jnoshea
Member Since: 07 May 2009
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 69
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Sorry Bodsy, yes I followed the manual exactly. My 'along the lines' comment was just because it didn't go precisely as described and I did things like lose count of the clicks and had to start over again etc. (was that a click? I don't know, better do it again). Anyway, the reason for the EPB problem seems to have been the drivers side brake shoes being quite far from the drums. On this side I had to turn it many more clicks than the passenger side in order to get the same turning torque. I didn't have time to take the drum off and have a look, but I guess this side has worn quite badly. Presumably this fits in with your explanation above, that the acuator is over extending in order to apply the force which it can't do because the shoes are too far from the drum.
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| 12th May 2009 2:47 pm |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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Exactly
If it was worn that much, may be worthwhile getting some new EPB shoes on there when you get the chance Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here
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| 12th May 2009 2:59 pm |
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jnoshea
Member Since: 07 May 2009
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 69
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Will do
Are there any bits in there that I should replace at the same time as the shoes (springs, retainer clips, things lke that)? I don't want to strip my only car down and then find that I need to pop to the dealers for a part.
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| 12th May 2009 6:01 pm |
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Gareth
Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26707
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Did you raise both rear wheels clear of the ground, or one at a time to check hub turning force?
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| 12th May 2009 6:44 pm |
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DN
D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2296
 
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jnoshea wrote:Will do
Are there any bits in there that I should replace at the same time as the shoes (springs, retainer clips, things lke that)? I don't want to strip my only car down and then find that I need to pop to the dealers for a part.
Content deleted, due to reply by cocky c  t.
Last edited by DN on 12th May 2009 9:22 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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| 12th May 2009 6:54 pm |
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jnoshea
Member Since: 07 May 2009
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 69
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Gareth wrote:Did you raise both rear wheels clear of the ground, or one at a time to check hub turning force?
 Nope. One at a time.
How much difference is it going to make to the measured torque? The range given in the workshop manual is between 40 and 90 Nm, which is quite a big range.
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| 12th May 2009 8:54 pm |
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wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14368
 
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I only did one wheel at a time and have had no issues ...done nearly 10,000 miles since .I also never changed the shoes ( had about 86000 miles on them ) as they were in very good condition ..which did supprise me G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
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| 12th May 2009 8:57 pm |
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jnoshea
Member Since: 07 May 2009
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 69
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wiggs wrote:I only did one wheel at a time and have had no issues ...done nearly 10,000 miles since .I also never changed the shoes ( had about 86000 miles on them ) as they were in very good condition ..which did supprise me
That's good to know. I can't really do both wheels at the same time as I have to work out on the road (no driveway you see) so working on the pavement side is my only option.
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| 12th May 2009 9:02 pm |
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