Member Since: 22 Mar 2018
Location: Scotland
Posts: 124
Citroen/Peugeot 2.7 HDI.
Hi...
Does anyone know how much or the top end of 2.7 HDI would fit a TDV6?
I had a search through previous threads but couldn’t see anything.
Cheers
29th Jun 2020 10:23 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1815
Depends on what you mean by top end..
Bare Heads: yes,
But: injectors, pump, etc. Depending on year and model...EU3 or EU4 + injectors may differ anyway (Same with LR and JAG)
But why the question? Heads also from LR are not difficult to find and not expensive...Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
29th Jun 2020 11:34 pm
KirrieDisco
Member Since: 22 Mar 2018
Location: Scotland
Posts: 124
Thanks for the reply Harold,
I have a 2007 D3 which has suffered cam belt failure. I have yet to strip it down but I have access to a 2.7 HDI from a Peugeot and was hoping that some of the damaged parts in the TDV6 could be swapped out for the HDI parts.
It will be easier I think when stripping both engines side by side, but wondered if this would be a worthwhile venture or would I be best finding a TDV6 with crank damage instead.
Cheers
30th Jun 2020 10:01 am
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1815
2007 LR as in MY07 is a EU4 engine
2007 LR as first year of registration can be either MY06 (EU3) or MY07 (EU4)
so you have to know which one you have for the fuel parts...(pump,rail,injectors)
BUT ..........
since you have to remove these parts anyway to remove/replace the heads, it is not an issue, if you use your "old" LR parts... (swap them over)
the heads (alloy, camshafts (as far as i know) & valves) themselves are the same....
regarding whole engine as a lump:
gearbox mountingpoints from PSA versions on cranckcases differ.. to JAG/LR versions..
tip:
depending on the milage on your engine... and if the connectingrods are still 100%? after a piston/valve collision, big chance they are bent...
if you are here... why not swap the whole enigne for a far lower milage JAG engine?
saves you the headgaskets 2x and possible other work..
if you buy a MY 09 JAG engine, fuelparts, etc. are the same, "just swap the exhaustmanifolds and turbo + some sec belt parts.. easy to swap..Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
30th Jun 2020 10:40 am
KirrieDisco
Member Since: 22 Mar 2018
Location: Scotland
Posts: 124
All very useful info. I suppose I’m just trying to be a cheap skate since I have the HDI sitting here. How do I tell which engine I have... EU3 or EU4?
I wasn’t aware of a change.
Cheers
Eddie
30th Jun 2020 12:21 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
yeah it could be worth getting the heads off the pug.
don't forget heads aren't that expensive second hand, (£100 each) so don't pay alot for the pug
... would I be best finding a TDV6 with crank damage instead.
not sure that would be a wise move.
so many other parts of the engine could have been damaged when the crank let go ... and some of that damage may not be obvious until engine is rebuilt and under working load again.
also ... as there appears to be no 100% certain answer as to why cranks fail, you might be rebuilding an engine using a component that caused the fail but is itself undamaged, just outside required spec..
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
30th Jun 2020 12:30 pm
KirrieDisco
Member Since: 22 Mar 2018
Location: Scotland
Posts: 124
Hi Dean... this was a timing belt failure so hoping crank is good. Hoping damage has stopped up top, and that the Conrods are ok. I know this is unlikely, but it was a low speed / revs failure.
Cheers
Eddie
30th Jun 2020 12:50 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1815
one rev is enough... if a valve was at the wrong place at the wrong time..
stationary is still 600 tpm.... one minute is 60 seconds 8) still a lot of possible hits in a second
you can try... but if hoped wrong, it will cost extra money, since effort, buying a spare engine, 2 head gaskets, and maybe a lot more are worthless by then..
you are changing the heads.... so the valve's are allready bent i presume, why should the connecting rods be ok then? did you see how thin they are? they are cheap though... if the heads are comming of... buy 6 new one's, change them.. rather easy and fit new big-ends and then you go...Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
30th Jun 2020 2:57 pm
KirrieDisco
Member Since: 22 Mar 2018
Location: Scotland
Posts: 124
How do you tell an EU3 from an EU4?
30th Jun 2020 3:33 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
There have been a number of cases where cambelt / tensioner mounting point have failed and DIYers have successfully repaired the engine by replacing the heads.
There is no point replacing the engine for this.
It's no fun removing the passenger head with the body on though. So don't think it will be easy.
But easier the cheaper than replacing the engine
Here is a recent example.
And note the link in the thread for more details
Member Since: 22 Mar 2018
Location: Scotland
Posts: 124
Thanks for that Pete, also read DiscoMikes post with interest.
How do you tell the difference between EU3 and EU4?
Cheers
1st Jul 2020 9:47 am
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72786
2005 would be E3.
1st Jul 2020 9:48 am
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1815
DSL wrote:
2005 would be E3.
hmm
KirrieDisco wrote:
I have a 2007 D3 which has suffered cam belt failure.
MY07 is EU4 but a 2007 plate MY06 is EU3
Pete K wrote:
There have been a number of cases where cambelt / tensioner mounting point have failed and DIYers have successfully repaired the engine by replacing the heads.
yes you can be lucky... but if not you have the work twice... and also the costs of (head)gaskets twice and.... conrods are not expensive.... if the heads are off, replacing conrods is a rather easy job... together with new/fresh big-end shells, gives it a real second life normally IMHO.
EU3/4 difference
have a search here on the forum... to identify the difference you need images... they are on the forum allready...
but a quick giveaway... this is typical EU3 (EU4 is different rail/divider/pump)
Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
1st Jul 2020 10:21 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
nothing on the engine is "easy" with the engine in the chassis.
Certainly changing the conrods in the car is not "easy" and unnecessary.
Yeah the bottom end on these engines is far from great, but while they are working you may as well get some use out of them.
You need to draw the line at some point in terms of labour time and parts cost
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum