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Cranks but no start after CKP sensor replacement code p0335
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parrafin23
 


Member Since: 04 Dec 2011
Location: Buskeud
Posts: 678

Norway 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 Commercial Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

The wiring to the CKP seems to be intact, the Hawkeye reports the rpm and thats good.
By listening to the engine while you crank it, it sounds like its firing on 2 or 3 cyl's but not all 6 of em.
But to be sure, I'd put a scope on the Cyl 1 sparkplug wire and set the trigger on the CKP.
or you could put an amp meter that has the capability to show graphs, around the starter motor and crank it, then you should see 6 amp spikes (compresion Stroke).

Have a look on youtube and search for Cranks but not start contitions. I'd reccomend you look up South Main Auto, Eric explains this stuff quite well. and Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics too.. Its worth havin a look at some of the videos about this types of faults.

Mr.P
  
Post #194424011th May 2018 6:08 am
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bboldt3
 


Member Since: 19 Mar 2018
Location: Elm Grove, WI
Posts: 32

United States 2006 LR3 4.0 V6 Petrol SE Auto Chawton WhiteLR3

Mr P,

Ill have to get a scanner to test.

Are you thinking skipped timing or something electrical?
  
Post #194434111th May 2018 1:15 pm
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parrafin23
 


Member Since: 04 Dec 2011
Location: Buskeud
Posts: 678

Norway 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 Commercial Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

Im not sure where to go from here, but Do you have a missfire counter on your tool?
IF you have, this can point you in the right direction on to what cylinders aren't doint its job.
The 5v. ref and sensors are prone when it comes to high voltages, and if one of your coils are bad this can " :censored: up" the rpm signal.. this signal is square wave, and if that wave is somehow twisted or lot of noice on it, then the ECM might not be able to understand the signal at all.

I'd check all spark plugs for spark one at the time.. On the clip you uploaded, you can clearly hear it fires som some cyls, so you know some of em are good. You need to figure out who is not firing.

So check if you have spark on all spark plugs by first removing the fuse to the fuel pump, so you do not flood the engine with fuel. use a spark checker tool if you have access to one.. Princes auto surly has this tool. and go over each and everyone of em, and write down if you have spark or not on the cylinders. make a list of who is sparking and who does not.
Do that firts and we can take it from there..
I am far from a mechanic, but by watching repair videos on youtube, have given me a basic understandig of petrol engine and how they operate and what they need to operate.

Mr.P
  
Post #194442511th May 2018 5:43 pm
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bboldt3
 


Member Since: 19 Mar 2018
Location: Elm Grove, WI
Posts: 32

United States 2006 LR3 4.0 V6 Petrol SE Auto Chawton WhiteLR3

Mr. P,

Finally tore into the LR3 this week and my notes are below. I suspect skipped timing at this point

1) spark all cylinders
2) fuel pressure 65psi
3) all fuses checked and pulled CJB out. zero corrosion and looked clean
4) still get P0335 code if let to crank for 5 seconds
5) changed out: Coils, plugs, CKP, camshaft sensor, wires, ignition capacitor

This weekend will take intake manifold off and pull front cover to look for skipped timing......wish it wasn't so but out of options
















Ben
  
Post #194818125th May 2018 7:08 pm
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parrafin23
 


Member Since: 04 Dec 2011
Location: Buskeud
Posts: 678

Norway 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 Commercial Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

Any updates on your issue Ben?

Have a read here

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0335

Mr.P
  
Post #19497861st Jun 2018 10:05 am
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bboldt3
 


Member Since: 19 Mar 2018
Location: Elm Grove, WI
Posts: 32

United States 2006 LR3 4.0 V6 Petrol SE Auto Chawton WhiteLR3

Identified Rovers fate, Tore intake off to find right head with skipped chain due to tensioner failure.



img]
  
Post #195398214th Jun 2018 8:15 pm
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bboldt3
 


Member Since: 19 Mar 2018
Location: Elm Grove, WI
Posts: 32

United States 2006 LR3 4.0 V6 Petrol SE Auto Chawton WhiteLR3

  
Post #195398514th Jun 2018 8:17 pm
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bboldt3
 


Member Since: 19 Mar 2018
Location: Elm Grove, WI
Posts: 32

United States 2006 LR3 4.0 V6 Petrol SE Auto Chawton WhiteLR3

I decided to tear down motor and replace cassettes and other misc parts ready to pick motor after coolant drain. I have learned a lot about this engine so far.





  
Post #19589101st Jul 2018 7:05 pm
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Levron
 


Member Since: 24 Jul 2014
Location: Calgary
Posts: 15

2007 LR3 4.0 V6 Petrol SE Auto Buckingham BlueLR3

How did it go? Did replacing the cassete helped?

I am on the opposite side, replaced the timing chains 20K km ago and now starting to get P0335 with occasional no start... Hope I don't have to do the chains again

Will start with CKP first
  
Post #19705794th Aug 2018 4:02 am
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bboldt3
 


Member Since: 19 Mar 2018
Location: Elm Grove, WI
Posts: 32

United States 2006 LR3 4.0 V6 Petrol SE Auto Chawton WhiteLR3

Still progressing with the repairs. I decided to do full overhaul on engine and waxoyl undercarrige and engine bay while motor is out.

I would suspect ckp also if that's your only code
Ben
  
Post #19706874th Aug 2018 2:29 pm
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bboldt3
 


Member Since: 19 Mar 2018
Location: Elm Grove, WI
Posts: 32

United States 2006 LR3 4.0 V6 Petrol SE Auto Chawton WhiteLR3

Found the culprit that caused ultimate failure jackshaft bolt sheared. Wow

Enjoy the pics, neat to see a lr3 without an engine in it.




















  
Post #19710675th Aug 2018 10:46 pm
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Levron
 


Member Since: 24 Jul 2014
Location: Calgary
Posts: 15

2007 LR3 4.0 V6 Petrol SE Auto Buckingham BlueLR3

This looks very similar to me:)

That bolt might off been re-used (you can't do that) if it was replaced previously:(

Also if you doing it yourself, when you are timing and tightening the camshaft bolts, which are left handed thread - not all of the torque wrenches work for left handed thread, as they become regular wrench in that situation. Basically you keep tighting until you hear a click from torque wrench but in my case I just hear snap:) In my case I broke one bolt...new camshaft later it is good to go.
  
Post #19721528th Aug 2018 8:31 pm
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Levron
 


Member Since: 24 Jul 2014
Location: Calgary
Posts: 15

2007 LR3 4.0 V6 Petrol SE Auto Buckingham BlueLR3

Also, while you there right now, replace the toque converter seal. Looks like it leaks if you had the engine out for a while if left unsupported. Land Rover calls for specialized tool to support torque converter when the engine is out

Click image to enlarge
  
Post #19721538th Aug 2018 8:33 pm
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bboldt3
 


Member Since: 19 Mar 2018
Location: Elm Grove, WI
Posts: 32

United States 2006 LR3 4.0 V6 Petrol SE Auto Chawton WhiteLR3

Thanks for the tip there on the tranny. I do have the transmission supported by a jack.

I will plan on buying new bolts for cams and jackshaft.

On a side note, my right head cams threads were stripped out when i took the bolt out, so the heads have to come off and head to the machine shop for tapping.

Ben
  
Post #19721698th Aug 2018 9:20 pm
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Levron
 


Member Since: 24 Jul 2014
Location: Calgary
Posts: 15

2007 LR3 4.0 V6 Petrol SE Auto Buckingham BlueLR3

Just to clarify, you need to support the torque converter itself on the nipple the goes into the engine's flywheel. If you don't do that, then the weight of the torwue converter and oil in it hangs on the seal, which get's damaged:)

Also when I broke the bolt inside of the cam, I just bought new cam instead of heading over to machine shop. Search for Ford part number inprinted on the cam shaft and buy it, it is Ford Engine after all. To replace the cam, head doesn't need to come off
  
Post #19721718th Aug 2018 9:23 pm
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