Member Since: 11 Jan 2023
Location: Le Mans
Posts: 14
Hi All
Got my first D3 (It's a 2006) just over a week ago. All was fine until the temp dropped. I've been getting round it by shorting out the sensor but it runs pretty rough for a while. Anyway I've ordered the resistors and switch to sort it out. Hopefully all goes well. Cheers.... 👍
27th Jan 2023 3:13 am
Flapper
Member Since: 04 Feb 2015
Location: Gloucester
Posts: 329
The real fix is change the glow plugs. The resistor just tricks the car in thinking it's warmer than it is.
I did not like lifting the bonnet so that's why I put the switch in the cab.
Also using a resistor you don't get the over heat alarm it's also worth checking starter speed since I changed mine it's starts been better 250rpm used to be 100rpm.
Good luck
27th Jan 2023 8:10 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8073
Re: Cold start issue
Knightfire wrote:
Hi guys
I have read all your remarks regarding the cold start issue, and eagerly consumed the 5k ohm resister fix. I have a RR Sport,
Pretty sure it's the same engine largely, I couldn't start it today, so tried the hot water trick, if started fine .......so was thinking about how to get a more autonomous method of the resister trick, so
How about wiring a relay, standard type, into the starter circuit at the ignition switch, that energises when the starter is operated, that connects the resister, ! Hey presto no button needed, unless you wish to isolate the function in the summer.
Any thoughts guys?
Better still disconnect a glow plug and use the live wire to operate a relay that switches the resistor. Thank fully I don’t have this problem. It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
27th Jan 2023 9:02 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10361
Sadly that won’t work due to hysteresis in temperature signal.
Though the bigger issue is that the GP are used when the car is running and you don’t want to alter the temp reading in those cases
Last edited by Pete K on 27th Jan 2023 10:33 am. Edited 1 time in total
27th Jan 2023 10:23 am
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4400
Glow plugs are a fundamental part of the starting system, it amazes me peeps will go to great lengths to do anything but fix the problem. If other parts of the engine failed, they'd get fixed without question.Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
27th Jan 2023 10:33 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10361
Probably because it costs about £700 to fix on a car worth £4000?
And only gives the owner a problem a few days a year
27th Jan 2023 10:35 am
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4400
Yes, fair point.
I guess I might not be a typical car owner then! I like my cars to work how they should. The lowest mileage car I own is 50 years old, and that's at 135k miles Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
27th Jan 2023 11:18 am
Flapper
Member Since: 04 Feb 2015
Location: Gloucester
Posts: 329
I agree changing the glow plugs is the way to go but find someone who can do it is a different game.
So far here is a list of garages who have had a go and failed or were so expensive
Land rover Listers Hereford they quoted me 5k body off heads off.
Land rover chelt same as above .
Tim fry chelt had a go a few years back none came out.
Tim fry chelt refued to do them. Sorry we don't do glow plugs too much hassle
Bg land rovers Ross had a go none came out
I have tried as you can see but on a 6k car is it worth it.
28th Jan 2023 10:14 am
colinwillis
Member Since: 25 May 2014
Location: Stansted, Essex
Posts: 98
Hi all…
Just seem this thread.. will try the hot water fix next time.
But after same issue last winter I had the glow plugs replaced as well as a new battery.
This winter same issue with cold starting.
Insted of going down the wiring temp fix route.. Is there anything else to check before using the boiling kettle fix?
Could the starter be an issue on a 2006 model? I presume its the original part.
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10361
I would check the GP's were actually replaced and that they are being activated.
On top of the engine is a black plug and brown plug with 3 wires each.
On a cold engine, disconnect them.
Measure the resistance of each green wire to battery - terminal
Should get about 1R for each green wire. (each wire is a GP)
Then change setting to voltage 20v dc
Turn the ignition on, and check the yellow wires have 12v on them (with the black meter wire on
battery - terminal).
It should be sufficient to check one yellow wire on one coloured plug/engine side, and one yellow on the other, quickly before they get turned off.
Member Since: 31 Aug 2010
Location: retford'ish
Posts: 2210
Hi,
last couple of weeks I have been diagnosing poor starting at below 4 degrees and yes it needs a set of GP's which is happening soon
To use as a short term fix for the next couple of weeks I was going to unplug the temp sensor and put a resistor across the plug pins when 5 or below
(dont need to hard wire as GP's getting done)
I tried a 2200 and the temp gauge went Max and overheat light on
then tried a 3300 and same thing Max on temp gauge and over heat light on
I thought if a used a resistor to bridge the plug it would give a low temp reading, why has it gone straight to Max
I'm confused what did I do wrong Transit! 2019
Gone D3 HSE 2008
Another Porsche Cayenne 2022
Gone Porsche Cayenne 2020
Gone RRS HSE Dynamic 2016
Gone RRS HSE LUX 2011
Gone RRS HSE 2006
Gone D3 SE 2.7 2008
gone D2 Td5 1999
I plan on living forever and so far so good !
Club DG Mclaren stuff
.
Last edited by riverblanche on 24th Mar 2023 9:12 pm. Edited 1 time in total
12th Mar 2023 8:48 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10361
Are you fitting the resistor before turning the ignition on ?
2K resistor has been known to work, but don't forget the temp sensors has parallel resistance too in most cases (i.e when wired in with switch)
Other people have reported the gauge going to max. Don't worry too much. See if it starts.
It's a bad solution though, because when you plug the sensor back in, the ecu will still be ignoring the sensor input, if the gauge is stuck on max. the fan will be running hard and fueling all over the place for the rest of the journey.
If you were to stop the engine after a few minutes (say after clearing windows) and restart with the sensor plugged in, that would be better.
12th Mar 2023 9:27 pm
zig
Member Since: 09 Sep 2005
Location: Scotland
Posts: 619
If it is really cold and some of the glow plugs are still working, once the glow plug indicator on the dash goes out, rather than turning the key to engage the starter motor, turn the key back and then move it to bring on the glow plug indicator again, repeating the above sequence a few times to get some heat into the cylinders, before finally turning the key to engage the starter motor.
13th Mar 2023 12:33 am
riverblanche
Member Since: 31 Aug 2010
Location: retford'ish
Posts: 2210
Hi Pete,
yes put the 2k resistor in before turning ign on, turned on to check where the gauge came to ?
as it was max I did not try to start it, turned back off, removed resistor, ign back on and back to cold,
so put the 3.3k in and ign on same max so no start removed it and temp cold.
started up, a couple of coughs and away she went, wondered what I did wrong
anyone want some resistors to try I have a selection as ten of each spec
Zig just for reference when the GP light goes out on the dash the GP's are still heating up, depending what the outside temp is ?
see Robbies guide he had the timings, at 0 degrees it is Pre-glow for 19 seconds and another 20 seconds on after start, so might be worth trying counting to 20 seconds before starting even if the light has gone out.
Robbie's comment that "If it is seriously cold the glow plug light may go out after a few seconds but the glow plug will remain heated for up to 25 seconds" was something I was not aware of.
Thus as you say it "might be worth trying counting to 20 seconds before starting even if the light has gone out".
I now know how to test the glow plugs in situ (without having to remove them or disconnect anything) using a current clamp meter. I have a current clamp meter (which can record maximum DC current - making it a single handed task) but I have yet to use it to determine how many of the glow plugs are still working.
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he had the timings, at 0 degrees it is Pre-glow for 19 seconds and another 20 seconds on after start, so might be worth trying counting to 20 seconds before starting even if the light has gone out.
