Member Since: 19 Jan 2011
Location: Co. Durham
Posts: 12319
Harmonic Dampers?Cheers Ian
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Discoless
24th May 2013 8:43 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20731
Bodsy wrote:
a bit Lumpy running, often stalling when driving. might also just show revs fluctuating when at standstill.
Live value could show crazy temps like -30
Have known them to be changed and then the replacement faulty as well! when finally replaced again, all was well.
Was hoping you would say that
Mine is displaying -30 all the time. Will upload a video of the rev counter jumping around, had a little panic going on until I plugged it in and read the live values. It will be replaced regardless, as it's only £25 or so My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 02 Dec 2010
Location: Warsaw
Posts: 224
Hairy Dan wrote:
Harmonic Dampers?
Thanks Dan
Used Wiki and learned something new again.. Wrapped Satin Yellow&Black; Lovells 2" Gas Legend Kit, OME hard springs. ATX 192 17" wheels with Cooper STT M/T tires. ProSpeed Roof Rack & Rear Ladder. Custom made underbody protection, front bumper, rock sliders, spare wheel and accessories mountings, drawer system. WARN 9,5XP Winch. Front and Rear Light Guards, Safari Snorkel. VIAIR X'treme Duty OBA, Traxide USI-160 system, Danhag GSM & IPCU modules, IID Tool BT, James Baroud roof tent and awnings, and air horn for fun
24th May 2013 8:52 pm
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
Disco_Mikey wrote:
Was hoping you would say that
Mine is displaying -30 all the time. Will upload a video of the rev counter jumping around, had a little panic going on until I plugged it in and read the live values. It will be replaced regardless, as it's only £25 or so
Haven't you got the one off your old engine?
Replacing should fix it anyway. Bodsys Brake Bible
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
24th May 2013 10:05 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20731
New engine was from a Jag, so sump and sensor was completely different
Rear wishbones were replaced, along with more new brake pipes:
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Difference between the D3 + RRS bushes:
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There was a little play in the rear ARB bushes, so some shims were fitted:
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Also needed a passenger side upper hub bush
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For any possible future turbo removal to be made as easy as possible, the turbo was removed, the studs were taken out, and the threads drilled out to 8mm. 2x M8 flange bolts were used to refit. This aids turbo removal massively, and is also much quicker. The small silicone hose was also fitted to the turbo at the same time. Big respect goes to robbo770 for fitting this hose with the turbo still fitted to the engine
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Same with this hose too. Easy in theory...
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EGR valves have been removed, and blanked at the exhaust manifold. Does away with the valves altogether. Once I have some spare time to compare the difference between EU3 + EU4 cooling systems, I will be doing away with the EGR coolers and associated pipework altogether too
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The big I/C hose was a doddle to fit
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The corroded parts of bodywork were wire-brushed down, and waxoyled. The whole car will be done fully, when the colder weather is here (but before the salt goes down )
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The 2 halves were then joined together, a few connectors rejoined, and it started almost furst turn of the key. The only issue is a faulty oil temp sensor, which is hopefully causing the following problem. This was with no throttle input at all...
Still have the bumpers to refit, front lower wishbones to do, a few tyres, add some Dr Tranny to the autobox to complement the new oil and filter, replace the front and rear axle, and transfer box oils, a wheel alignment, then send it for an MOT :thumbsup:
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 12 Feb 2013
Location: Fife
Posts: 6528
So it will be going in on Monday morning for the mot then Mikey?
Depending if you get all the parts
Don't think I would have a lot of faith in the poly bag shim though
Good work bet your glad you held on for an engine rather than breaking for spares
D3 57 xs Stornaway grey
D2 02 commercial silver gone but a great servant and won't be forgotten
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24th May 2013 11:51 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Disco_Mikey wrote:
New engine was from a Jag, so sump and sensor was completely different
From a Jag? Didn't think this was possible due to changes in the oil system to cater for more extreme angles and a different level of tune.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 11 Feb 2013
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 208
I'm not sure if that's an urban myth or not Robbie. In theory the oil system, with the exception of the sump, is all under pressure from the oil pump, and therefore impervious to angle.
My tiny little brain points to the sump and pickup being the only parts needed to be redesigned to allow for extra angle.
25th May 2013 8:38 am
haroosh
Member Since: 16 Nov 2010
Location: Perth & Kinross
Posts: 624
This is sounding like it going to be a really nice car when its done....
25th May 2013 8:58 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20731
Robbie wrote:
Disco_Mikey wrote:
New engine was from a Jag, so sump and sensor was completely different
From a Jag? Didn't think this was possible due to changes in the oil system to cater for more extreme angles and a different level of tune.
Basic block + heads are identical. Oil pickup in the bottom of the pump is exactly the same, but in the Jag, the pickup pipe goes straight into the bottom of the pump, whereas in the LR, there is a long channel in the alloy ladder frame, to allow the pickup to sit lower down in the sump (behind the axle tube/steering rack)
Should have really taken a picture of the differences My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Sheerluck, the only bits that look different are the sump, the sump baffling and the pick-up to give the extreme angle performance - all pretty obvious with the sump in your hands.
I was also told that a number of seals were different (multilayered in the LR) and that the bore on the oil return lines was also larger to aid flow return to the sump. I was also told by Dagenham (and I find myself laughing at this bit) the LR oil pump was beefed-up… I think history says otherwise. The engine mapping was also different between the versions too, but who stays with the original map anyway!Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20731
Robbie, the sump pan, and baffle/ladder frame are completely different. However, the gasket sealing the ladder frame to the block is exactly the same between Jag + LR engines. I did compare everything when it came to bits
The oil return from the turbo is different. The Jag turbos return into the block, the LR drains into the ladder frame, and there are 2 blanking plates to cover the Jag returns. I can't see them modifying the whole engine just for the LR. Same with the oil pump
The engine mapping would be different, as the Jag is meant to be twin turbo. However, the mapping wouldn't affect the mechanical parts of the engine My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 11 Feb 2013
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 208
That all makes perfect sense DM, changing the big castings - the block and the heads - specifically for a lower volume marque would not make commercial sense. However, changing a sheet metal part like a sump is comparatively cheap.
Good to see that my basic engineering logic holds up!
25th May 2013 9:14 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Mikey & sheerluck, thank you.
Mikey did you happen to check if all the shells were located correctly or are you not that paranoid?
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
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