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Room_For_Improvement
Member Since: 09 Sep 2019
Location: Bolton
Posts: 20
  
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Good day @ Disco_Mikey,
Aren't all these pumps, FoMoCo, FAI, and BGA etc identical and manufactured in the same factory? There is a lot of cross branding, most of these parts/components look identical? I bought it directly from GT (General Traffic) and they supply Motor Traders with quality parts, they don't supply rejects (at least not to my knowledge), never heard of that occuring. Maybe I am just unlucky and it had my name on it?! Maybe I need to be brave and crank up the revs? Yes, FoMoCo? Isn't that just another over-priced name? Like going directly to JLR and paying a fortune?! Oh, my diesel injector removal tools arrived this morning, should I remove the injectors and oil pump at the same time!!! Just joking? Surely you know what's involved and the most favourable route forward? 
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 18th Dec 2019 1:38 pm |
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Room_For_Improvement
Member Since: 09 Sep 2019
Location: Bolton
Posts: 20
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MESSAGE FOR THE WIFE?!!
High Five @ the wife ,
Honestly Dearest? I have fully reconditioned and rebuilt 100's of engines, hence why I thought it was time for a bigger challenge? FYI, I worked in a FULLY EQUIPPED automotive engine build-shop and used to recondition and rebuild K series MG/Land Rover/Rover engines out of scrap parts which made for many interesting challenges? Some reassembled engines used to growl due to clearances on the shells? That was not my decision; I just did what the boss told me to do though did challenge his dubious quality control protocols on numerous occasions. You see I worked for Swish Rolls-Royce (Aero-Engines) for a couple of years? I served time in a final inspection/quality machine-shop processing fan discs/engine blades and shafts for RB211's? I have actually stood inside engines and didn't just look at them, Dear!
You may like this part: I remember fully reconditioning a 300Tdi engine and it was a heavy brute. The vehicle came to us from a customer and the engine had low oil pressure, the engine was still in the vehicle like, not a crate. I carried out the full rebuild, first of its kind performed in a fully equipped workshop! It took a couple of weeks to complete from start to finish? Having removed engine on hoist and fully dismantled it in a workshop, the crankshaft was sent to a machine shop in order to be re-ground and it returned with brand new shells supplied for the mains and big ones a week later.
Guess what?
Having meticulously cleaned, rebuilt and fitted the engine, upon starting and running the engine the oil light just kept flickering. I ran it for 5 maybe 10 minutes, can't be precise as that was some 15 years ago? Was most concerned, alarmed you might say? Really had no other alternative than to remove the engine again and strip it down to the shells?
Turns out the machine shop that reconditioned the crank had supplied us with oversized shells, seriously, no freaking joke. The crank had been reground by 1/4 and the shells were the next size up meaning there was more than enough room for the crank to slosh around and it didn't even touch the sides? That's low oil pressure for you!! I did the job twice and it was a labour of love!!
Anyway, I trust that gives you the bigger picture? BTW: I am not married and never have been to date, at least not Yeti! 
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| 18th Dec 2019 1:59 pm |
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Room_For_Improvement
Member Since: 09 Sep 2019
Location: Bolton
Posts: 20
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Hi @ Anyone and Everyone Interested in This Feed for Thoughts?
Still desperately seeking and patiently waiting for and seeking further opinions, suggestions and ideas? All equally considered?
Does anyone have a factory schematic/design blueprint for the entire oil pump system showing the passages/pathways/oil lines the oil is pumped around?
Really wanting a factory schematic/ design blueprint for the engine oil pump system as would like to know exactly how the engine oil circulates and where the oil goes. Also any specs on pressure readings and values would be insightful, 9 psi on tick-over sounds frightfully low, and woefully inadequate lubricating a £5000 pound engine?
Is that the best Ford can do it all?!! It's beyond a practical joke...
When we have all the info, can put our heads together so-to-speak and decide on the most favorable route forward? I need your inputs (+ & -), Am sharing this for everyone's benefit?
I appreciate you've all got things to do at this time of year; nevertheless, your valuable input is warmly appreciated? Cheers Ladies and Gents? 
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| 18th Dec 2019 2:11 pm |
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Sea Raider
Member Since: 01 Nov 2016
Location: None
Posts: 4450
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I've just read through the entire thread and it appears you are reluctant to hear what the experts are telling you.
CHANGE THE PUMP
Buy cheap buy twice
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| 18th Dec 2019 2:32 pm |
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gearmuncher
Member Since: 30 Oct 2018
Location: Woodley
Posts: 143
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I think you have been over thinking this situation, you my not have a problem at all.
Has this engine run for more than 10 seconds, if not take the filter out and pour some clean oil into the filter housing, one of the holes at the bottom of the housing go's directly to the pump, that will prime the pump,refit the filter making sure the little pipe on the filter fits into its hole, then start it up, if oil light will not go out after 10 seconds then you do have a problem and need to change the pump again, its ether sucking air somehow or the tolerances on the pump are to loose.
GO FOR IT.
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| 18th Dec 2019 3:07 pm |
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Parky63
Member Since: 10 Apr 2017
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 401
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What Sea Raider said. Flack & Disco Mickey are professionals making their livings working on these vehicles and between them have probably changed thousands of D3 oil pumps.
David 2006 D3 HSE Buckingham Blue
Silicone Intercooler Pipe
MAP Sensor cleaned
N/S Drain Tube Elbow
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| 18th Dec 2019 4:32 pm |
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Room_For_Improvement
Member Since: 09 Sep 2019
Location: Bolton
Posts: 20
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Hi @ gearmuncher,
You have a thought provoking name? Do you grind gears for fun or are you leading me on too the final frontier?
I get the picture, Disco_Mikey only recommends OEM parts? Seriously, I have order dozens and none of them were made in Great Britain for God sake guys?
Do you think these countries really care for our traditional industrial heart lands?
Malaysia - Head Unit (Dubious buttons drop off. No Canbus comms from Cruise Controlls?)
Mexico - Some other bits
China - Electrics, switch gear, air bag/steering wheel control Ring (Your having a laugh)
Japan - Air comp (Quality)
France - Engine parts
German - steering and trans components (Quality)
Austria - OEM JLR Oil Filter (Quality)
Spain - Dayco OEM LR Belt kit.
UK - OEM LR Thermostat (Must be due to legacy K series Payne head gaskets, hey)?
Global - Turbocharger (Borg-Warner)
I purchased a Gates T/belt and the quality was frightful. Also an eBay pattern dayco T/belt with the crude black bearing seal pulley and sloppy bearing/cheap metal, fff that!
Seriously:
The engine has been started and run twice for 2 seconds total at most under its own steam? Following that 1st and 2nd false start I removed the new oil filter and flooded the oil cooler chamber with ~ 2 litres of oil watching the oil disappear into the engine? If only I knew what path it took?
I have cranked it on the key and it rotated for around 15s total on two attempts, then the battery had had enough, removed viscous fan and turned engine on bolt, it turned over easily and felt smooth, free and sweet?
You say oil injected via the oil cooler returns directly to the pump? It cannot hold 2 litres so the rest must surely return to the sump? So far, no one has been able to confirm or deny how the crankshaft receives the life saving oil in the grand scheme of things? Do the main bearing shells or bigones create the oil pressure; is that a job for the pump or do they both work together?
I know the 300Tdi I have described had low oil pressure due to oversized shells? How on earth does the oil actually entertain the crankshaft?!! No poke! No joke!
Just going to GT to query oil-pump, I just rang to quiz pump and some chap said the pump they have supplied me with is for a Ford Mondeo? A Ford, they sure got that right?
It is a BGA LP1415 Oil Pump, not an FAI, FoMoCo or cheap eBay clone.
No offence guys, I can deal with the occasional pun intended, just don't want to venture too far down the proverbial rabbit hole in one!
Cheers, Chat soon hey?
Last edited by Room_For_Improvement on 18th Dec 2019 7:52 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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| 18th Dec 2019 4:36 pm |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20731
 
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FoMoCo pumps are manufactured in Turkey. Does it really matter? They work 1st time, every time...
I have had 3 aftermarket pumps, 2 threw the oil seals out, the 3rd has a sticky PRV...
You need to run the engine for 10 seconds. If it still doesn't generate oil pressure, you have a faulty pump, or you have done something wrong... My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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| 18th Dec 2019 4:45 pm |
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SteveNorman
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1144
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I agree with Mikey.
The FoMoCo / puegeot / Landrover pumps work.
I have changed about 4 cheap pumps fitted by others. All had very little in the way of identification on them, no part numbers, or branding, metal finish looked cheap.
Various problems, mainly the oil seal coming out, but one was slow to get the oil light out & we were doing a belt anyway.
If there is a source for 'OE' pumps then fine, but until there is a definite OE supply, why take the chance?
I personally fit genuine Landrover pumps, but any FoMoCo source pump should be the same.
regards
Steve
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| 18th Dec 2019 5:09 pm |
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jenseneverest
Member Since: 12 Jun 2017
Location: somewhere
Posts: 766
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To answer some of your questions
My understanding of oil ways in general is that oil is sucked up from sump, into the oil pump, pressurised by the pump, through the filter, then it feeds the crankshaft - then onto all the other bits that require lube.
Someone can correct me if the disco is doing something weird.
The oil pressure sensor is up top of the engine and would be one of the last to see pressure.
IMO - You have 2 choice's:
1. Take a gamble on your current pump, start it up- wait to see if you get pressure after 10 seconds
2. Fit the pump thats been recommended by several users, again wait for pressure to build.
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| 18th Dec 2019 7:20 pm |
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Room_For_Improvement
Member Since: 09 Sep 2019
Location: Bolton
Posts: 20
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Just returned from GT, the Manager has confirmed that the new pump is identical to an FAI OP335 and has been manufactured to stringent OEM specifications so no warranty issues?. Also, they thought my D3 was an 08 hence why it was showing as a Mondeo?
I'll drain the oil one last time? Filter it for cleanliness, refill through the cooler, rotate the crank ~30 degrees for every 1/2 litre of oil added and give it 10-15 PSI halfway through to make sure all the passages are clear? Anyone happy with that method in mind? May as well test the pump now it's fitted and keep my fingers crossed? What do you say?
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| 18th Dec 2019 8:03 pm |
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jenseneverest
Member Since: 12 Jun 2017
Location: somewhere
Posts: 766
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Why not poor oil in both ports of the filter housing.
Disable ECM so it wont start
Crank it over - it should make a mess if your pump is working.
I would not be pressuring anything myself. It is not going to help anything IMO.
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| 18th Dec 2019 8:15 pm |
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Gareth
Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26701
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If you think this is causing you frustration, just wait until you try and drive the thing after 4 years of standing.
The EPB for a start! I’ve seen men cry over that damn thing! Then there is the gearbox...
Fit a decent pump and start it up 👍
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| 18th Dec 2019 8:17 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10364
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jUST START the engine, and let it run for 8 seconds. your doing more damage messing around
Oil goes
pickup pipe > pump > filter/cooler > crank & head
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| 18th Dec 2019 8:23 pm |
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Lee Trinder
Member Since: 12 Aug 2018
Location: Henley in arden
Posts: 515
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Hi, why are you asking for anyone’s advice if your not taking it on board? You sound like you know what you’re doing
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| 18th Dec 2019 9:13 pm |
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