Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10336
Interesting.
Thanks for the guide
16th May 2017 5:01 pm
luciogodoy
Member Since: 14 Apr 2008
Location: Windsor - UK
Posts: 356
Hi All;
ADVICE - this will save you time later...
I have previously used Filo's method to flush the gearbox, and at the same time I changed the plastic filter/pan to the 2-pieces metal pan & filter - nice and easy.
However I missed the opportunity to change the electrical connector that often is the culprit for oil leaks at the same time.
So, yesterday I did just that, changed the leaky connector. To add to the whole complication, the new metal pan does not have a drain plug, so I had to carefully drain the system by undoing the pan-bolts to a point it started to leak, and using a large bucket to carefully collect all the oil - horrible and messy!
I used plastic sheets and cardboard to prevent contamination, I wish i had done this previously!
I bought the part from Advanced Factor for £11
TZV500010 SEAL TUBE - ZF6HP26 MECHATRONIC UNIT
When replacing, make sure you insert the new sleeve all the way back, otherwise the locking mechanism won't move up to lock the new sleeve in place - resist using brute force.
I used my 3/4 ratchet to GENTLY knock the sleeve to its final place (from the outside), and when it was in place the white locking mechanism just slides in place.
Been GENTLE is the key here!
Good luck
LucioI'm riding a R1250GSA Triple Back
Previous love: Disco 3 HSE MY07, D4 heated Steering/W, D4 rear cluster, D4 extended roof rack, D4 grille & air grille, D4 rear bumper, colour coded arches + front bumper, side-steps, Webasto timer/ remote control, De-Tangoed Xenon headlights + HID, LEDs all around, reverse CAM (RR hack) + brightness, DLR LEDs, 3-click indicator, SatNav on the move, EGR's done, front/rear antiroll bar Polybush, gearbox pan/filter + oil mega-flush.
21st May 2017 9:39 am
Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
I'm going to flush my transmission in the next fortnight.
The only issues I have with the filo method, is that the oil cooler oil and return line doesn't get flushed out and removed.
Is there potential to pump in say, 1 litre of new fluid through the oil cooler in the radiator and move all this dirty oil back towards the tranny and finally the sump, then turn the car on and extract 4.5 + 1 litre at the disconnected pipe at the radiator as per the filo method, then finally we pump back in 4.5 litres
So we put in (1 + 4.5) 5.5 litres
We remove 5.5 litres
Then we repeat
This way we remove 11 litres from a system that in theory holds 9.5.
31st May 2017 3:28 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10336
The FILO method does clean out the cooler lines and cooler.
31st May 2017 11:20 am
Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
But the purged oil from the cooler and return line just gets pushed into the tranny to mix with any new oil
What I am suggesting, is it possible to first, purge this dirty oil in the cooler and return line into the tranny pan by pushing 1 litre of new oil through the cooler connector,
then start the car and then use filos method to drain the dirty oil via the disconnected return line at the radiator cooler.
Most people seem to get 4.5 litres out, before air comes out,
I'm suggesting we could get 5.5 litres of dirty oil.
Or is there potential to put even more than a 1 litre in?
31st May 2017 12:06 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10336
Yeah you could add another litre to a cold gearbox if you wanted.
You really need to also drain from the gearbox sump plug too, to get all oil out. This is more important.
Infact you could start by draining around 1 litre out the sump first, and then do your trick. You would then have no worry of overfilling.
You could also see the colour of the oil before doing a full change.
[URL=]
Click image to enlarge
[/URL]
2 litres on the right came out the sump
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated
31st May 2017 5:57 pm
Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
I could remove the fill level plug and capture any overflow? Then re Install plug and do the filo method
Using this method there is the possibility to put even more than a litre in the system to fully flush it out
31st May 2017 10:13 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10336
Yes that is another way to drain.
There will be lots left in the sump even after filo pump out. P
31st May 2017 10:38 pm
Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
I performed my oil change yesterday
I decided to use FUCHS titan 4134, I was comfortable in this choice after reading others had used it +
I called Thier Support line and they advised that they guarantee Thier oils and specify it for Landrover ZF transmissions + it was $9 a litre as opppsed to $30 for lifeguard
Background, I've had a driveline clunk for nearly 12 months and after replacing front and back suspension bushes, ARB bushes and ball joints the clunk was still there. I began to suspect that the auto box maybe the problem.
Anyway, as I was changing oil products, I wanted to get most of the old oil out.
I used Filos method, the only difference I did, was after my first flush and re injection of the new oil, I repeated the process 2 more times.
Before I started, I was expecting to get around 4.5 litres out on the first flush, I only managed 3.7 litres, this was 0.8 litres less than expected ?
Process
First flush 3.7 litres out, Pumped back in 3.7 litres
Second 2.3 litres out, Pumped back in 2.3 litres
Third 2.0 litres out, Pumped back in 2.0 litres
(I removed 8.0 litres and replaced it with 8.0 litres )
After pumping the new fluid back in, I allowed 5 minutes for the oil to settle, Before the next flush
On the very last part of the third flush the oil changed colour from black to the new oils cherry red colour, so I was reasonablely happy that I removed 8 litres of old oil
The sample on the left is from the 6 litres from No: 1+2 flush
The sample on the right is from 3rd flush.
I was slightly concerned that There may be excess air in the system so I plumbed in a small piece of clear 1/2" tube and ran the system for over a minute, and it was straight fluid being pumped, no sign of any air pockets in the system + the oil was mostly transparent cherry coloured oil
Now, I was happy about no air pockets in the system, I started the car to warm up the gearbox for final oil level check, I placed my foot on the brake and moved through the gears to get the oil moving through the tranny, I also went for a very quick drive to use all the gears
I used my hand to guess the tranny temp and removed the fill plug, what then surprised me!!!
I had to inject 0.8 litres of oil into the fill hole before it started to run out, I used a thermometer to measure the final oil temp of the dribbling oil and then reinstalled the fill plug.
I took the car for a short drive and I noticed better gear changes
And the driveline clunk seems to of disappeared !!!!
Key learnings:
-It's now obvious my transmission was 0.8 of a litre low on fluid!!
This matches perfectly to Only getting 3.7 litres out on the first flush as I was expecting 4.5 litres
-With the transmission holding 9.5 litres and my system being 0.8 litres under, this suggests I had a total volume of 8.7 litres, I am confident I removed close to 8 litre of old oil. I think it's slightly plausible that the remaning 0.7 litres of oil is sticking to the inside surfaces.
-The clunk in my driveline seems to be attributed to the old Oil and missing 0.8 litres!
-After fitting the fill level plug I had a good look around the mechtronic sleeve and surprise,
Surprise it's got the tell tale sign of an oil leak!
I can't believe, that at no stage of 10 years of ownership that at the very least an inspection is not done of the oil level during a designated service interval.
And finally don't be afraid of this transmission, if I can drive round with it being 0.8 litres low and no low pressure or temp warnings are coming up, then anyone being scared off from doing it themselves by not being sure if thier work surface is exactly flat or the transmission is at the exact temperature, then they should have a rethink.
Last edited by Tripe on 5th Jun 2017 12:03 pm. Edited 3 times in total
5th Jun 2017 1:06 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10336
Nice write up.
I got just over 3.5l out of the flush the first time. (see picture above - Left bottle)
Shame you didn't undo the sump plug though.
5th Jun 2017 11:19 am
Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
I did think about that, but I was paranoid about getting An airlock in the circuit.
I'm going to run this oil, For a Couple thousands kms and install a new 2 piece pan and filter and
New oil.
I went for another drive today, I detected a slight clunk, but it's
Only about 10% of what it was, I am now suspecting the front drive shaft needs replacing
5th Jun 2017 11:40 am
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Finally did mine today, very easy and pretty much mess free, only 3.75 litres came out with the engine running, 4 litres pumped back in sump to temp level checked good for another year
Last changed 2 yrs ago.
Getting the car level front to back and side to side was perhaps the hardest bit as I live on a hill!
14th Jun 2017 3:37 pm
KostasA
Member Since: 23 Aug 2015
Location: nairobi
Posts: 286
Pete K wrote:
Yeah you could add another litre to a cold gearbox if you wanted.
You really need to also drain from the gearbox sump plug too, to get all oil out. This is more important.
Infact you could start by draining around 1 litre out the sump first, and then do your trick. You would then have no worry of overfilling.
You could also see the colour of the oil before doing a full change.
[URL=]
Click image to enlarge
[/URL]
2 litres on the right came out the sump
Pete, just for my understanding why you advise on draining the sump? if for example you do FILO's method and try to push in (and eventually out) 9 liters in say 3 circles of the procedure isn't it the same thing? of course you have to be really sure that the original quantity was correctly measure.
reason am saying this is not to touch the drain plug at all and avoid the re leveling procedure of the oil.
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated
27th Jun 2017 4:49 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10336
I guess I just like to get all the oil out, and then put new oil in.
It will result in less waste.
If you add the oil that came out the front, with the oil that came out the sump and put that quantity in, you will also have the same result ?
27th Jun 2017 5:26 pm
KostasA
Member Since: 23 Aug 2015
Location: nairobi
Posts: 286
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum