Member Since: 04 Dec 2006
Location: Gortynia
Posts: 605
Hi to all
sooner or later i will replace the filter (LR007474) in my local dealer. Should i also replace as a precaution the mechatronics connector (TZV500010)????? Is it recommended??
cheers
11th May 2018 12:45 pm
KostasA
Member Since: 23 Aug 2015
Location: nairobi
Posts: 286
yes you should, you will have full access to do so and bulletproof for future leakages.
11th May 2018 2:53 pm
Rufflyer
Member Since: 21 May 2014
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 25
A more complex way to do this?
So, I am reading through the forum as my wife watches the latest TV show of a secret agent that uses science to get himself out of a gun fight, it occurred to me:
I wondered if I could use an eloquent and complex solution to fix a simple problem. As such I wondered why not combine a few of these procedures I have seen here into one.
What if you disconnected the upper hose, ran it into an inlet of a sealed container #1.
The outlet would run to the inlet of container #2 that would hold 8-10 Liters of fluid.
The outlet of container #2 would then run back to the radiator where the hose was removed.
As you start the Rover, the fluid would be forced out of the hose, into container #1, the pressure build up in container #2 would force the fluid in container 2 into the radiator. Theoretically, the amount of fluid pumped out would force the same amount of fluid back in.
I am sure there is some smart individual who will point out that the air in the two containers will be compressed before the fluid moves into the hose. Fair enough, But I don’t think it would be enough to matter.
This may work, but does it translate into a procedure that will work in the real world?
Jeff2010 LR4 w/ Kenwood Ham Radio
2007 LR3 w/ Taxride dual battery setup; Front runner full roof rack w/ holders for 4 Jerry cans; Garmin GPS w/ wireless backup camera; iiDTool Bluetooth: Icom 7000 Ham Radio Polybush ugrade on all control arms.
21st May 2018 5:18 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
there are youtube video's of american's doing similar things on other car brands.
I don't think its works on ours
21st May 2018 6:21 pm
darrind
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: In A World of My Own!
Posts: 2863
Pump
I use a 12v oil/diesel pump to push clean ATF into the top whilst draining out dirty ATF by running the car - pump in 1 Litre after draining out 1 litre and then top up after running through the gears at temperature
Done it twice in the last 2 years and no judders or issues since (Touch wood) I had a horrendous judder and rev fluctuation before doing this
I do around 25k a year and have used the Mannol AG55 both times, first time I dropped the sump contents as well and second time didn't bother
will do it again in a few months as I like to do it before a trip up to North Yorkshire/Scotland in late summerMust stop buying shiny toys....
21st May 2018 7:07 pm
darrind
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: In A World of My Own!
Posts: 2863
BTW - 10L of Mannol AG55 is currently £55 on e-blag with free deliveryMust stop buying shiny toys....
21st May 2018 7:11 pm
mew1253
Member Since: 11 Nov 2017
Location: Telemark
Posts: 3
Ready to do the oil change/ refresh but just a bit concerned about running the gearbox up whilst the level is very low. any one had any issues?
3rd Jul 2018 11:09 am
sharkey964
Member Since: 29 Aug 2015
Location: Dordogne
Posts: 42
Evening all.
Having finaly got a D3 after humming and ha'ing for too long.I have just changed the Auto transmision fluid & filter.
Without the information it this thread,I would have never attempted a job like this.
I used a combination of methods from umpteen posts.
I sourced a kit from my local Landy parts supplier,which included 7l of Rockoil ATF,a new steel sump pan,gasket & bolts & seperate filter.
I drained the sump,& got 4.5l out.
Took the old plastic sump off.....OMG,what a pig those bolts under the cross member are to get at.But,I managed to change the filter & sump pan without un-bolting & jacking up the gearbox.
Once the new pan & filter were fitted I refilled the sump with 3.5l of ATF.
I then went up top,& disconected the top hose from the oil cooler,attached a legnth of clear tube ran into a container.Conected another length of hose to the cooler from a garden pressure sprayer.
I then started the engine,I could see the old dirty oil coming down the hose,then followed by clean new ATF.I got out no more than 1l of dirty oil before the clean oil started to flow.
Shut off engine,went back underneath took out the drain plug,started the engine again & added the other 4.5l of new oil.The new oil was now just running out of the filler hole.Let the engine run until the temperature of the dif pan reached around 40 degrees,then put the plug back.
Around .5l dribbled out.
There were no problems with the gearshifts before the change,but since,the shifting is slightly quicker & no hesitations when pulling away.
My truck has covered 80,000 miles,with FSH,but as gearbox fluid change is not part of the service schedule,it's hopefuly preventative maintenance.
Yes,it's quite complicated for an oil change,but very doable.
Thank you to all who have contributed to this thread/guide.
Marc.
5th Oct 2018 6:57 pm
Discoveringissues
Member Since: 30 Nov 2018
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 18
I did a single flush this morning. Just 5ltrs worth. Got some off cuts of garden hose, a pressurised 5ltr bottle and had someone run the car, as the old came out I pumped the new oil in. Worked a treat!
Going to run that for a day then do it again tomorrow and hopefully I've got a good quantity of fresh oil in there.
Car drives so much better even after just doing 5ltrs!
Will add some dr tranny into the next load for piece of mind.
At first I was a bit worried about something going wrong but it was easy and cost less than half the local Indy was going to charge just to drop the oil out and replace with new which wouldn't of cycled any of the oil in the torque converter out.
Deffo recommend it to anyone even if your not mechanically minded.
19th Dec 2018 4:21 pm
discoverybrazil
Member Since: 07 Aug 2018
Location: sao paulo
Posts: 102
filo wrote:
Quote:
I followed your oil changes. This is the first time you changed the filter too?
Yes it is, first time
Bodsy persuaded me to change the filter pan
thanks Ian
Quote:
Was the filter very dirty? As you say: the oil was transparent - it seems your double flush cleaned out enough dirty oil when you've done it before.
no sir, the filter was clean
I broke the plastic gland to be able so the inside of the filter and inspect it for mud, dirt, metal pieces ans so on but i found it clean
and yes it seems the first two flushes cleaned the dirt
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
also aluminum parts were clean, i mean not painted of dirt
the 7 (or 8, or 6, i can't remember) colored solenoids were clean as well
the magnets were clean too, i mean no metal pieces trapped
Click image to enlarge
now I'm 79K on the clock
I plan to flush it again after 50k, when i'll be round 130K
Filippo
great job! i done it on my D3 with 130k km, by flushing but o not changed pan... good to know that you pan is clean!
thank you for post all itLR3 ON ROAD ONLY
27th Dec 2018 3:27 pm
Marques.a
Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Belo Horizonte
Posts: 10
Hello guys
I would like to thank Filo for the wonderful guidelines.
I decided to exhaust the oil from the box first and then complete.
In the sequence I overcame the filo method and only got only 1 liter.
Then I calibrated the box through the Nanocom.
The car was wonderful after the procedure! Although I did not follow the method.
I'm on the other side of the world (Brazil) and I was able to count on this wonderful forum!
Long live the Filo!
Long live the internet!
Hugs to all,
Anderson
13th Jan 2019 4:32 am
Marques.a
Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Belo Horizonte
Posts: 10
follow the procedure to check the oil level
14th Jan 2019 2:15 am
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
Metal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
20th Jan 2019 6:57 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
Almost everytime I see a flushing machine it’s got red oil
20th Jan 2019 7:24 pm
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
£45.99 now on flee bay
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MANNOL-AG-55-10...2788511837Metal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
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