Member Since: 12 Dec 2017
Location: Wales UK
Posts: 230
Front End Drops Overnight - Suspension Fault C1A20-64
Ok
The previous keeper of my trusty new D3 HSE which has approx 150,000 miles on the clock advised me that the suspension light came on when starting the car from cold, he advised that when it came on it was because the air compressor was turning off before the air suspension system had enough air in it, he advised he just re started the car and the compressor kicked back in pumped it up and all was ok. He advised that an AMK compressor was fitted and a new nearside front air strut. Indeed a shiny brand new complete strut was on the car when I drove it away.
All was fine and this issue did arise, and turning the car on and off fixed the single yellow light on the dash. However problem has now gotten worse, yellow light went to HDC fault on dashboard only normal height available. Compressor was checked and it is a shiny new AMK compressor after this happened I took it to the garage to have it checked and garage advised that the suspension software had not been changed to AMK so that was done in the garage.
Fault remains, but suspension level still normal heigh at this stage. I jacked up the drivers side front up a few days later wheel to change one of the bolts and lowered the car, over the course of the next few days the suspension seemed to be lowering with car car sat in my garage not being used, starting it up it is not raising at all and now the car is sitting on its bump stops, the compressor runs for a minute or two then yellow light comes on and HDC fault and compressor just cuts out, restarting several times the suspension now will not raise and trying it off and on a few times the fault codes read compressor temperature too hot. So I have left it alone for now until I get some sound advice on where to go next. Hence the post. If anyone has had a similar problem please let me know. The only code that remains is the C1A20-6 Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir.
Last edited by Ambit on 27th Apr 2020 3:39 pm. Edited 3 times in total
25th Feb 2020 6:45 pm
latnutgub
Member Since: 25 Aug 2011
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 170
You have an air leak somewhere. Try the reservoir underneath the front passenger side. Not unknown to corrode from the inside. Also possible damage from a workshop car jack. New compressor fitted but probably the original problem is still there. Time for soapy water at the air pipe joints.
25th Feb 2020 7:08 pm
Ambit
Member Since: 12 Dec 2017
Location: Wales UK
Posts: 230
That's what I thought as garage said it needed a new air compressor after I explained it had a new AMK on there I took it away. Only thing is now there's no air in the system or not enough to check for air leaks? As its sitting right down low now. Is there any way to get air into the system at all? I do have an Ingersoll 240v air compressor here lol.
25th Feb 2020 7:40 pm
MikeO
Member Since: 15 Jan 2014
Location: The Cotswolds
Posts: 1372
I would spray some soapy water on the reservoir and the front air bag on the corner you lifted (as this seems to have made the problem worse). Then if the compressor runs for a minute or two, you should have time to get a good look and see if there are any bubbles. But it does sound like the leak is now so significant that the system can't achieve enough pressure to lift the car.
If you have a diagnostic tool you could also check the gallery pressure when the compressor runs and see if it rises at all.2016 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate
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25th Feb 2020 8:47 pm
Ambit
Member Since: 12 Dec 2017
Location: Wales UK
Posts: 230
Thanks MikeO will check this out, Jacking it up on the drivers side made it worse and I think your going to be right, will check gallery pressure and try to see where the leak is coming from.
25th Feb 2020 11:33 pm
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
Worth a watch sounds close to your issue
3 video’s on this problem he has
Metal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
26th Feb 2020 12:14 am
Ambit
Member Since: 12 Dec 2017
Location: Wales UK
Posts: 230
Dazz I have just watched all 3 videos! Similar to when I jacked mine up. I will go check for leaks and if all else fails ill dig my soldering iron out. taking a look over the next few days so I will update on progress.
26th Feb 2020 10:05 am
Bigmitch1980
Member Since: 16 Sep 2018
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 14
Hi might be worth checking the air connection at the top of the new strut as it might not be seated properly,also check and clean valve blocks and maybe put some new seals in, I’ve chased suspension faults on mine for months cleaning valve block fixed it first time before another fault appeared my final (hopefully!) fault after a new compressor, new seals and new push-fit pipe fittings all round was rear valve block leaking out of the electrical connector and blowing the connector off!! Took ages to identify it as it wasn’t blown completely off at first it was only when I had the valve off to put new seals in that I noticed after getting a fault I checked it and it had blown off and when I tried to put it back on while car was running you could feel it pushing it off!!!! New valve sorted it
So worth checking as you don’t normally check electric connections with soapy water!!
26th Feb 2020 11:06 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13612
Hi
Don’t know how much help this is but my front struts wouldn’t leak all the time but alas found they were when i sprayed them in access height
Also replaced the voss connectors with brass pushfits which made life easier
I did pressure test the struts when I removed them
Had a nightmare with my suspension and ended up vacuum testing lines , valve blocks and all sorts of pressure gauges , isolating valve etc that I rigged up to test everything as it had been seriously neglected
Try setting ur suspension at different heights, use a tape measure all round on from the bottom of ur wheelarch to the centre of ur wheels so u have some data , pull fuse F26 and see if they drop overnight
Hope that helps a little
26th Feb 2020 1:50 pm
Ambit
Member Since: 12 Dec 2017
Location: Wales UK
Posts: 230
Thanks very much for all the advice, that's why is forum is great, lots of help and advice out there.
27th Feb 2020 1:20 pm
Ambit
Member Since: 12 Dec 2017
Location: Wales UK
Posts: 230
So I have checked the system for leaks and I cannot find anything the valve blocks front and rear cleaned. Valve block by the compressor is new. The only thing I haven’t tried replacing is the air tank but before I do this I plugged in diagnostics- Launch and raised the suspension by going onto the ride level control module and actuation test - Air suspension raise switch to open value and she went straight up to off road height. But front end has dropped after a week then the back end dropped.
After I did get it to raise with Launch it would not move from there up or down either via Launch or with the terrain control switches. What I have noticed is that if I start the car and leave it idling then compressor kicks in and after 30 seconds I’m getting C1A20-64 air pressure increases too slowly and yellow suspension light comes on but if I start the engine again keeping revs to 1500 rpm - No light at all for about 3 mins compressor runs car does not raise. After the three mins I get a different code which is C1131-91 clutch circuit failure compressor.
The fact that it has dropped again over time still leads me to think there is a leak and to change the air tank cylinder itself near to the compressor. But what’s throwing me is if revs are up the pressure increases too slowly fault does not occur - ever. No light after the 30 seconds. I have also changed the all terrain switches for a spare set in case there was a fault on the switch pack. But all remains the same.
Not sure if this will help but, I had an air leak in one of my suspension struts. Car was fine on the road at normal or lowered height. It was only when off roading and I raised it to off road height that I could hear the air leaking from the front drivers side. Replaced the air bags and that fixed it all.
Member Since: 12 Dec 2017
Location: Wales UK
Posts: 230
So the suspension saga continues.
I have been all over the car spraying with soapy water, I can get the suspension to raise to off road height after using the car I have noticed that the front end drops to the bump stops within 2 hours of being parked. Then overnight the rear also drops right down.
Start the car the next day and same problems Pressure increases too slowly fault code but after a while of clearing code or re- starting engine several times the compressor does run fully and gallery pressure gets up to around 1600kpa suspension raises, I have cleaned the front valve block and re-fitted and also checked for any air leaks with soapy water, none found. But problem of both front struts loosing air remains.
The nearside front air strut is a new Dunlop unit and no leaks showing anywhere around both of the front struts or their top air connectors. I have last night pulled the relevant fuse for the suspension system left the door open overnight, Result this morning rear end still in off road height and front end right down. I initially suspected the strut on the front offside which is not the new strut, but now that both of the front struts drop exactly the same I suspect the front valve block must be the problem. Cant hear any hissing of air or detect any bubbles with the spray soap. Bit baffled. But I think its got to be the valve block if both sides at the front drop down together.
Any advice is welcomed.D3HSE Silver - D3SE Black - D3HSE Black - D4.5 Green Overland
27th Apr 2020 3:51 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13612
Hi
U may have a leak from the line that runs from the reservoir valve block to the front valve block , or if the other front strut wasn’t replaced , inc reservoir air tank , ??
Also did u confirm ur reservoir air tank is 100% sound , they normally leak on top along the seal where u can’t see them
When u pull the fuse ref F26 u don’t need to leave any doors open, u can pull the fuse then lock the landy
So in the morning ur see if there’s any leaks
Then next step before isolating valve, ( details below ) remove drivers side wheel arch liner , start engine, raise suspension and spray all round the pipes and front valve block, if no leaks see below
Personally and of course not telling u how to suck eggs but best if u can isolate sections if u can’t find leaks anywhere
get a 6mm push fit isolating valve , Short length of 6mm pipe, fit it where the pipe comes out of the reservoir valve block , Start the engine , allow the suspension to raise , pull fuse F26 then turn off the isolating valve , then see if the front drops , if not, as you’ve already removed the front drivers wheel arch liner , fit the isolating valve where the pipe comes out of the valve block to feed one of the struts
Then raise suspension again, see if it drops , then do the other strut
can also fit an isolating valve inline with the reservoir air tank, that way ur be able to close of sections to Eliminate things , can then remove them after ,
This is what I personally done as there were leaks everywhere , front and back , I also used vacuum gauges , but as it’s just the front with a simple isolating valve ur be able to go through the system step by step
The back sound like it’s fine if it stays up over night
Noticed u replaced the nearside strut , assume u also fitted one on the offside as it’s always best to fit them as a pair
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taking a look over the next few days so I will update on progress.
