kseventy
Member Since: 02 Sep 2014
Location: London
Posts: 42
  
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I'll have a good root around the wheel arch and check the connections.
I haven't had the tank off yet, still got around 40l of fuel in there and only had limited time when testing.
If/When I I bite the bullet and buy a new pump I will make sure the in tank filter has been cleaned/replaced. Probably before then when the tank has less fuel.
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 26th Jan 2021 7:39 pm |
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wedgev8
Member Since: 17 May 2019
Location: Kerpen
Posts: 181
 
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What is after deleting the faults? Is the car running good and powerful at all?
If it runs good than the HPFP is also good.
I am very sure the problem is electronical. When you look the live values, choose fuel pressure, volume control valve, pressure control valve and Sensor reference voltage A. Look for drops in the values.
And dont forget the earth points. All you can find. Open, brush, grease and fasten with toothed washers. Not only looking at them.
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| 26th Jan 2021 8:03 pm |
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wedgev8
Member Since: 17 May 2019
Location: Kerpen
Posts: 181
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You can also cut the fuel delivery tube just before the schrader valve. Then bind in a transparent pvc hose and lay it in a circle infront of the windscreen. Clamp it under the wipers. So you can see if there is enough fuel while driving.
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| 26th Jan 2021 8:14 pm |
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kseventy
Member Since: 02 Sep 2014
Location: London
Posts: 42
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wedgev8 wrote:What is after deleting the faults? Is the car running good and powerful at all?
If it runs good than the HPFP is also good.
I am very sure the problem is electronical. When you look the live values, choose fuel pressure, volume control valve, pressure control valve and Sensor reference voltage A. Look for drops in the values.
And dont forget the earth points. All you can find. Open, brush, grease and fasten with toothed washers. Not only looking at them.
Runs without any issues right up until the Christmas tree. If I turn it off and back on again everything is fine again for a short time.
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| 26th Jan 2021 9:11 pm |
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kseventy
Member Since: 02 Sep 2014
Location: London
Posts: 42
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wedgev8 wrote:You can also cut the fuel delivery tube just before the schrader valve. Then bind in a transparent pvc hose and lay it in a circle infront of the windscreen. Clamp it under the wipers. So you can see if there is enough fuel while driving.
That's a good idea  hadn't thought about watching the flow while driving. I'm sure have some tubing and connectors somewhere in the garage.
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| 26th Jan 2021 9:16 pm |
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DN
D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2294
 
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Why cut the pipe ?......can’t you just temporarily remove the inner part of the Schrader valve, and connect clear pipe to the threaded end (checking it doesn’t leak of course). The other end would need to go to a plastic container of some sort, just to demonstrate fuel flow for a short time. I wouldn’t recommend doing this for a prolonged period  D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
Last edited by DN on 26th Jan 2021 10:37 pm. Edited 3 times in total
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| 26th Jan 2021 10:14 pm |
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kseventy
Member Since: 02 Sep 2014
Location: London
Posts: 42
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Wouldn't that stop the fuel,? Whereas a clear extension would show the flow.
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| 26th Jan 2021 10:17 pm |
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lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
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I think wedgv8 means he wants to see the actual fuel flow.
Not sure I would cut the fuel line myself?
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| 26th Jan 2021 10:19 pm |
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aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2459
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This idea would be flawed
You would be able to see fuel in the pipe but you wouldnt know what pressure is there, Even at low pressure there will still be fuel in the pipe.
It would be better to connect a pressure guage to the schrader valve if you use a longer pipe you can get a passenger to keep an eye on the gauge.
I would just change the pump they dont last forever and it sounds like its failing
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| 26th Jan 2021 11:30 pm |
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Lrsg
Member Since: 10 May 2020
Location: Norway
Posts: 77
 
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P0087 for me meant replacing the HPFP. Did it last year. Same symptoms as described here. I searched extensively for other possible causes or experiences with this fault, but could find no documentation of it being solved without replacing the fuel pump or in a few instances the fuel filter. So if the filter is fine, I would wager it is the HPFP which is on its way out. You can get refurbished used HPFPs with 12 months warranty for about £350, about half price of a new one, which is what I did.
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| 27th Jan 2021 7:27 am |
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kseventy
Member Since: 02 Sep 2014
Location: London
Posts: 42
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aja4x4 wrote:This idea would be flawed
You would be able to see fuel in the pipe but you wouldnt know what pressure is there, Even at low pressure there will still be fuel in the pipe.
It would be better to connect a pressure guage to the schrader valve if you use a longer pipe you can get a passenger to keep an eye on the gauge.
I would just change the pump they dont last forever and it sounds like its failing
I think you're probably right. Wouldn't hurt to replace it. I will order a pump and wait for a dry day (drive under water at the moment!)
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| 30th Jan 2021 4:53 pm |
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kseventy
Member Since: 02 Sep 2014
Location: London
Posts: 42
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Lrsg wrote:P0087 for me meant replacing the HPFP. Did it last year. Same symptoms as described here. I searched extensively for other possible causes or experiences with this fault, but could find no documentation of it being solved without replacing the fuel pump or in a few instances the fuel filter. So if the filter is fine, I would wager it is the HPFP which is on its way out. You can get refurbished used HPFPs with 12 months warranty for about £350, about half price of a new one, which is what I did.
Fingers crossed it isn't that, but I was planning for possibly spending £700 on a pump.
Where did you get your refurbished pump from?
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| 30th Jan 2021 4:57 pm |
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Lrsg
Member Since: 10 May 2020
Location: Norway
Posts: 77
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332311797260
Note that this is for a Euro4 engine, the Euro3 pump is slightly different. The change came in 2007.
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| 30th Jan 2021 5:42 pm |
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wedgev8
Member Since: 17 May 2019
Location: Kerpen
Posts: 181
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Fingers crossed....
But i'm not sure with changing the pump. I have some years driven cars with common rail Diesel engines.
Some time ago I disassembled a defective HPFP from BOSCH. This pump lost its power within 150 to 200 km. From 2000 bar to at most only 800 bar under full load. The pump was full of metal abrasion and shavings. Also the fuel lines and injectors.
The Siemens VDO pump in your Disco has 3 metal pistons in metal cylinders driven by a shaft with metal cams.
What do you think could be defective with this? If a cylinder had abrasion than you would have constantly top low pressure and not only sometimes. Check the live values with your tool If pressure comes near 1600 bar under full load. If this is so than your pump is healthy.
Maybe you change only the pressure control valve ( Part No. X39-800-300-005Z) and the volume valve ( Part No. A2C20000719Z) in the pump. You can buy these separatly from Pf. Jones or ebay. You will find these at the pump where electric connectors are located. (Pump has to bei removed from Car)
But first renew the earthpoints of ECU and Engine to body, and clean ALL conectors in the circuit from ECU to the actors and Sensors.
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| 30th Jan 2021 7:44 pm |
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kseventy
Member Since: 02 Sep 2014
Location: London
Posts: 42
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Finally managed to get the time, and the weather, to drop the tank and replace the pump.
However - i managed to break part of the green strap which holds the pump in place.
Does anyone know the part number for this, or a simple fix?
Also managed to snap one of the connectors to the filter housing  so haven't had a chance to see if it has made a difference yet.
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| 28th Feb 2021 5:51 pm |
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