Member Since: 10 Mar 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 1072
Are genuine pads worth it?
I see lots of people on here have had wobble issues when braking, some of which were sorted ny fitting genuine pads and discs.
I have decided I will get genuine discs, but the pads are really expensive from LR.
However, its worth it to me if they are really good.
Also, regarding rear dicss and pads-how much work do they really do? If not much, then will dome decent branded but non genuine discs and pads do the trick?
22nd Sep 2018 5:34 pm
lespes
Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: Sitting Down
Posts: 2232
Pretty certain TRW make the genuine pads which can be bought from sponsor Advanced Factors at a much more reasonable price D4 Landmark MY16 Santorini Black THE LAST
D4 HSE MY12 Marmais Teal: Gone. Missed a lot!
Freelander 2 SD HSE MY11 Silver:Thankfully gone.
D4 HSE MY11 Silver: Gone missed !
Range Rover Sport MY06 HSE Buck Blue: Gone missed!
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Now demoted to a VW
22nd Sep 2018 5:52 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4657
There are many really good makes of pad, Textar, ATE, Brembo, EBC, Bosch, etc, and few poor ones too.
LR do not make the pads themselves, so one or more of of the above will likely be the manufacturer (OEM).
If you go for a quality pad the results should match or exceed the original fitted by LR. If you search the site there is no shortage of opinion as to whats best. Remember though, the results of any pad depends on the overall condition of the entire braking system.
For example, brake wobble is usually a sign of a sticking caliper which has caused the disc to warp when it gets hot.
Other than that, you pays your money and takes your chances yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
22nd Sep 2018 5:55 pm
nrich
Member Since: 04 Jan 2015
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 269
Ferodo are ohm.
22nd Sep 2018 5:58 pm
nrich
Member Since: 04 Jan 2015
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 269
Thats oem.
22nd Sep 2018 5:58 pm
dgarside
Member Since: 17 Jan 2010
Location: Holmfirth
Posts: 732
Textar are absolutely fine and give good brake feel, response and no negatives to report so far. In fact if the pads on before were OEM, which I believe they were, these new ones feel and perform much better.
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22nd Sep 2018 6:12 pm
Philip1972
Member Since: 10 Mar 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 1072
Thanks all.
I have had new calipers, lower arms, wheel bearings, drop links, inner and outer track rods, and still these discs now shake when braking. It is through the steering wheel, so assume its the fronts (although some people have changed the rears and its fixed it ).
So I am going to do all of them, and will be getting OE discs, just wondered about the pads.
22nd Sep 2018 6:24 pm
Bardley
Member Since: 02 May 2018
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 441
There are aftermarket budget, and there are aftermarket quality.
Don't be sucked in to having to have Land Rover branded. LR branded ARE good:whether you consider the massive price for that is worth it over other Discs/Pads is the call.
Fit a known branded Disc and pad setup, and allow bedding in time. This is very important.
It used to be called mechanical sympathy.
Many just drive and are hard on brakes straight out the box, and this creates hot spots and issues like brake judder.
Firm braking followed by sitting with the brake pedal pressed amd not using the park brake will also lead to hot spots on the discs, so leading to judder from warping.2011 MY D4 HSE
Previously 2001 D2 TD5, 1996 D1 300Tdi, 1985 90 2.2 petrol.
Bikes! KTM, BMW, British, Classics and others.
22nd Sep 2018 6:30 pm
Philip1972
Member Since: 10 Mar 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 1072
Cheers.
How do you all bed them in?
22nd Sep 2018 6:32 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4657
No Hard braking for first 100kms, and everything Bardley said yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
22nd Sep 2018 6:36 pm
Bardley
Member Since: 02 May 2018
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 441
It's all about heat tempering the discs. The pads also need heat up and cool down time.
Metal expands and contracts with heat/cooling: Braking friction etc.. If this happens at different rates over the disc surface area.. it creates a ripple in the surface, manifesting as judder.
If you keep the pads against the discs after stopping, the pad area stays hot and will not cool as quickly as the rest of the disc.
Again.. this is bad.2011 MY D4 HSE
Previously 2001 D2 TD5, 1996 D1 300Tdi, 1985 90 2.2 petrol.
Bikes! KTM, BMW, British, Classics and others.
22nd Sep 2018 6:51 pm
dgarside
Member Since: 17 Jan 2010
Location: Holmfirth
Posts: 732
I bedded my new discs and pads in really carefully and for a few hundred miles of easy and light breaking at least, made all the difference and worked fantastic.RLD CB Bracket
RLD Spare Wheel Protector
RLD Sump Protector
ProSpeed Compressor Cover
TPMS Retrofit
Range Rover Digital Dash Upgrade
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24th Sep 2018 9:22 pm
al cope
Member Since: 08 Nov 2005
Location: Oldbury, WM
Posts: 10297
you ask about rear disc and pads. My D4 needed rear pads before it needed fronts (changed at 28k for the rears, now at 40k and front not changed yet)
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25th Sep 2018 9:21 am
Philip1972
Member Since: 10 Mar 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 1072
Thanks all.
I have just placed an order with Advanced Factors for the Textar front disc and pad kit, should be with me so I can fit this weekend.
I will do the rears after payday, as they are quite old anyway.
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