Member Since: 01 Dec 2012
Location: Stockport
Posts: 271
Trying to remember now. Yes, I think it was!
22nd Aug 2013 7:00 pm
LRNutterZA
Member Since: 28 Nov 2013
Location: Little Falls, Gauteng
Posts: 25
Hi there
Thanks so much for this guide ... I think I will need to try this, unless my "extended" warranty will cover it.... will check next week.
I assume this is also the seal issue? It Started this week.
While the transfer case is out, is there anything else I should be doing as preventative maintenance to avoid taking it off again in the near future?
Again, Thanks for your time on the guide.------
'72 LR Series II (circa)
'01 LR Defender 110
'06 LR D3 HSE
------
4th Jan 2014 5:06 pm
LRNutterZA
Member Since: 28 Nov 2013
Location: Little Falls, Gauteng
Posts: 25
Getting the leak sorted out for about ZAR 1 000.00 from RAND Rover in Fairlands
So worth it, rather than spending the time removing it and breaking something else on my own.
Seals are excluded from my extended warranty, Go Figure.------
'72 LR Series II (circa)
'01 LR Defender 110
'06 LR D3 HSE
------
11th Jan 2014 4:58 pm
D3 Dan
Member Since: 07 Jul 2016
Location: just north of Sydney
Posts: 1
Resurrecting this thread...
I am looking to change the seals in my transfer case, but don't have the special removal tools, or access to machinery to make them.
Would a generic seal/bearing press kit such as this one be suitable? Or do the tools need the recesses that Iain shows in his sketches?
Cheers
Dan
29th Nov 2018 2:32 am
Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
I've had a whining noise in the under carriage, for a while but could not decide if it was rear diff, wheel bearing, transfer case etc.
In the last week, the noise started to get noticeably louder and it appeared to be coming from mid vehicle. I bit the bullet and disconnected front and rear drive shafts from the transfer case and with the transmission in Neutral, I manually turned the front and rear output flanges and soon found the rear flange was rough and very lumpy to turn. I then decided to remove transfer case and split it to inspect the rear output bearing
Tips for removing transfer case:
(I did this on my garage floor)
No need to remove cross member to remove transfer case, I removed the support bracket from transfer case and supported auto box with a bottle jack and gently lowered auto box down to give access to top bolts.
The T/C is attached by 8 bolts, the top 2 bolts on the drivers side where a PITA, in the end i used a rachet and a combination of extension bars and universal joints to access these bolts from the top.
Click image to enlarge
For the bolts on the passenger side, I made my own clawfoot attachment with the help of a cheap $10 socket set and a ring spanner and it worked a treat. I had to cut about an inch off the handle so as to use it, in the available space.
Once all bolts were removed I used a helper with a trolley jack with a block of wood to support the transfer case as I slid it off, I supported 2 corners and then we gently lowered to the ground. It's a heavy piece of kit, 40kg and there is considerable risk of it becoming unstable and falling hard on the ground and doing considerable damage to the case and external electric motors.
Splitting the transfer case apart is straight forward, as is removing the main shaft, clutches and reduction gear, to access the rear output bearing. I used a press to pushout rear flange and bearing. When installing bearing, you need to make sure it is correctly positioned as one side has a rebate to allow rear flange circlip to lock into place.
Take pictures at every stage, so as to reference if needed
Fractured fragments from failed bearing, no wonder it was noisey
New rear out put bearing
One thing to note, the sump plug is not magnetic, and it's not possible to inspect metal fragments in the oil, without splitting the transfer case and inspecting the cross shaped magnet.
Re-assembly of T/C is straight forward, I did need to gently rotate and push some of the components to seat them properly.
Reinstalling T/C is Fun , I needed two extra people, one to operate trolley jack, myself to support and manoeuvre T/C towards Autobox spline and the third person to sight and give direction to align transfer case to autobox spline.
When T/C was back in position, I locked it into position, with the bottom L+R bolts, I positioned myself with my legs pointing towards the engine and in a position under the T/C so as to "Hug it", from this position i managed to install all passenger side bolts and top 2 driver side bolts and tighten with my cheap $10 rachet with13mm socket. The last driverside bolt 2nd from bottom, i had to turn 180 degrees around and have my legs pointing towards the rear of the car, (this was the hardest bolt to access, but this could be a function of not removing the cross member)
Post job debrief:
I've had the noise coming from under the vehicle for ages, and I was only able to pinpoint it in the last week as it became more obvious where the noise was coming from.
The disco is back to new, no strange noises coming from under the cabin.
It took about 3 hours to remove T/C and 2.5 to reinstall.
It was difficult at first to work out how to remove and reinstall the 8 bolts, but not as hard as doing EGR Valves !!!
Splitting T/C and replacing bearing was easy and nothing to be scared about.
Take care when re fitting T/C that no electrical harness or connectors get caught and damaged
I used BT IID tool to recalibrate clutches and sensor position and car drove as normal.
If I took this to a LR dealer, it would of cost me a couple thousand dollars to repair, I paid roughly $44 for a new bearing and some new T/C oil
Last edited by Tripe on 8th Aug 2019 1:30 pm. Edited 2 times in total
12th Jun 2019 5:16 am
Gareth Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26699
DIY victory! Well done, good write up. 👍
12th Jun 2019 7:58 am
Timmytid
Member Since: 24 Apr 2019
Location: Stavanger
Posts: 14
Tripe wrote:
Post job debrief:
I've had the noise coming from under the vehicle for ages, and I was only able to pinpoint it in the last week as it became more obvious where the noise was coming from.
The disco is back to new, no strange noises coming from under the cabin.
It took about 3 hours to remove T/C and 2.5 to reinstall.
It was difficult at first to work out how to remove and reinstall the 8 bolts, but not as hard as doing EGR Valves !!!
Splitting T/C and replacing bearing was easy and nothing to be scared about.
Take care when re fitting T/C that no electrical harness or connectors get caught and damaged
I used BT IID tool to recalibrate clutches and sensor position and car drove as normal.
If I took this to a LR dealer, it would of cost me a couple thousand dollars to repair, I paid roughly $44 for a new bearing and some new T/C oil
Great write up!
Did you have any problems getting the old bearing out and a new one in? Is a press required?
8th Aug 2019 9:41 am
Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
I used a press, and the bearings didn’t feel to tight.
I expect a hammer would easily do the job.
8th Aug 2019 10:21 am
Timmytid
Member Since: 24 Apr 2019
Location: Stavanger
Posts: 14
Thank you Tripe!
I will take some pictures and provide a brief write-up here when the mission is accomplished.
8th Aug 2019 10:23 am
Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
You need to push out, the output flange first, before you can access the bearing.
The flange only needed a sharp hit to remove.
The flange is kept in place by a circlip, it needs to be pushed in, so as to allow the flange to be pushed through the bearing.
I tried to position 4 screwdrivers, to compress the circlip, but one would always fall out and stuff everything.
After about 2 hours with sweaty hands and greasy fingers, I was ready to throw everything in the bin.
In the end, I used 5 paper clips to position behind the compressed circlip
They worked a treat, and compressed the circlip and allowed the output shaft to be tapped out.
8th Aug 2019 1:19 pm
Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
I used Royal Purple for T/C oil, it was roughly 1/3 the cost of OEM T/C oil
8th Aug 2019 1:26 pm
adampasko
Member Since: 18 Sep 2019
Location: orange county
Posts: 2
Post rebuild/re-install on the DD295 trans case: P0806 code.
After replacing the bearings and the seals on the Transfer case- which was some what a pleasant project
and not as scary as I thought - I Can't seem to clear the P0806 code Clutch Position sensor -circuit range/performance on the 2006 LR3 SE 4.4 -
Blinking green low range mountain image and "Can't change gear" range on the Info message.
BT ll Tool wont calibrate this issue...
Car is noise free and seems to run well but I obviously can't drive it.
Anyone else have this issue? I am wondering if does anyone know what I should be getting out of the sensor to test it. It's in correctly but could it be positioned poorly? I am thinking of taking it out again to look at it. But outside of replacing it, I wonder if a deeper scanner tool might (dealer) might be able to pinpoint more? (fuses are good - wires look good - )
Thanks in advance...
19th Sep 2019 3:52 am
Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
When you say clutch? Is it the slip rings in T/case or manual gearbox?
22nd Sep 2019 8:39 am
SWR
Member Since: 07 Nov 2013
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 840
Tonight is the night. Off to replace the transfer box with a little help. It could be a long night
TIA for the helpful guide on removal and replacement.
Wish me luck D3 HSE TDV6 Auto. Bonatti Grey.
Mods:
V8 Brake upgrade (front Only), Full height Luggage guard, Rubber mats all round, RLD spare wheel protector, Terra Firma Steering and Transmission guard, Smoooooth Nappa steering wheel, Clock on dash and Reverse home lights. National Luna split charge system, front and rear light guards, Danhag GSM (on loan), JE stage 1 remap... Zero money
3rd May 2022 3:16 pm
Martymart Guest
These write ups are great guys. Thanks!!
Can anyone provide links or current part numbers for the seals needed for this job? I’m getting conflicting information.
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, I needed two extra people, one to operate trolley jack, myself to support and manoeuvre T/C towards Autobox spline and the third person to sight and give direction to align transfer case to autobox spline.
