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hardwire Nextbase Dashcam
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Steve B
 


Member Since: 04 Dec 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 263

England 2012 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 XS Auto Fuji WhiteDiscovery 4
hardwire Nextbase Dashcam

About to buy a Nextbase 322GW dashcam for the latest lockdown project

Read several posts on here and am happy as to how to route the wiring and connect to the fuse box,

I do however have a couple of simple (or some would say stupid) questions

1) the hardwire kit has a small black box between the cable to go to the dashcam and the wiring to the fuses. Where is the best place to locate this so that is stable and does not rattle.

2) How has anyone routed the cabling from the A pillar into the area behind the glove box. Looking at it without removing anything there appears to be very little room to pass the wiring through any hole without removing part of the dashboard

3) how does the plastic scuttle down the side of the dash and A pillar just above the bonnet latch come off as it would appear that to get the cabling into the fuse area this may have to be removed. ( see pic for the bit I mean)






Apologies if I am being dense but would rather get it right first time

Thanks
  
Post #21509702nd Jun 2020 11:29 am
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Gareth22
 


Member Since: 12 Aug 2018
Location: Ipswich
Posts: 27

England 2010 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 HSE Auto Ipanema SandDiscovery 4

I did mine with a 522gw a couple of weeks ago.

The cover from memory popped off.

There is room behind the glove box and also behind the light above the rear view mirror to put the power box

There is also a - bolt behind the light above the rear view mirror
  
Post #21509732nd Jun 2020 11:48 am
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Gareth22
 


Member Since: 12 Aug 2018
Location: Ipswich
Posts: 27

England 2010 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 HSE Auto Ipanema SandDiscovery 4

Once the cover is off, the glove box is lowered and the A Piller cover is removed there is quite a bit of room to fed the cabling
  
Post #21509742nd Jun 2020 11:49 am
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RogB
 


Member Since: 15 Jun 2018
Location: Mansfield
Posts: 1651

United Kingdom 

rang mine along the roof trim then tucked it into the top of the A pillar trim round the rubber door strip, fed it into this all the way down to just below the dash then round to behind the dropped down glove box.

didn't have to remove any trim at all and took about 15 mins. I used a trim screw into the body behind the glovebox for earth and piggy backed onto fuse 53 (IIRC) for a switched live and cable tied all the excess wiring and black box into the large space behind the glovebox
 2011 D4 XS 305 MY12 - gone but not forgotten  
Post #21509812nd Jun 2020 12:20 pm
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Steve B
 


Member Since: 04 Dec 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 263

England 2012 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 XS Auto Fuji WhiteDiscovery 4

Thanks guys
Project starts tomorrow when dashcam should arrive
  
Post #21509832nd Jun 2020 12:25 pm
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Nasher
 


Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2685

England 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 HSE Lux Auto Loire BlueDiscovery 4

Loads of room to the side of the passenger side airvent.

Just give the panel around it a good tug starting at the bottom and the whole assembly pops out to reveal a large void between it and the upper glovebox.

Nasher
 Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.  
Post #21510072nd Jun 2020 2:11 pm
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Steve B
 


Member Since: 04 Dec 2010
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 263

England 2012 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 XS Auto Fuji WhiteDiscovery 4

Thanks to all for your help and advice

Job completed today running cable over the top of the A pillar trim and down the weather strip into the void behind the glovebox

Piggy backed onto fuse 53 and took an earth off a bolt behind the trim I had taken off

Only problem was dropping the trim clip into a gap by the glovebox which took longer to get out than the rest of the job took 😡

Once again thanks for your help
  
Post #21517735th Jun 2020 7:17 pm
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DIY Ace
 


Member Since: 06 Feb 2019
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 879

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Bonatti GreyDiscovery 3

Hi guys. I've just done this install yesterday and recorded it, just in case it is useful for anyone else...

 2022 BMW i4 M50. Bought Oct 2022. 10,200 miles and counting...
2014 BMW 435d convertible. Bought July 2021. 58,000 miles and counting...
2005 Discovery 3 HSE Auto. Bought Feb 2019. 169,000 miles and counting...
2009 Freelander 2 XS Manual. Bought Sep 2013. SOLD Aug 2021 (already regretted!)

https://youtube.com/channel/UCO_u_0D45x9KGfiNstzLJnw 
 
Post #21726349th Sep 2020 6:31 am
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RRUK
Site Supporter 


Member Since: 16 Aug 2005
Location: UK
Posts: 643

United Kingdom 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Santorini BlackDiscovery 4

That’s such a useful video, I personally hate removing trim panels but this has encouraged me to get on with it.

Can I ask why you didn’t go for a permanent live, so that the camera can detect movement at night if someone tried to break in etc?
 1998 Defender 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF

2016 Discovery 4 HSE

1982 Series 3 2.25 Petrol Hard top- Oscar, as featured in Classic Land Rover Magazine for 7 months 
 
Post #21981851st Jan 2021 6:59 pm
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DIY Ace
 


Member Since: 06 Feb 2019
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 879

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Bonatti GreyDiscovery 3

Hey there, thanks and I'm pleased you found the video useful.

Before I hardwired it I had it connected to a permanent Live 12v socket in the cabin, using the 12v lighter power thingy that came with the dashcam. It worked okay, but I found that it was too sensitive and would turn on way too often. Perhaps I had it set up incorrectly.
 2022 BMW i4 M50. Bought Oct 2022. 10,200 miles and counting...
2014 BMW 435d convertible. Bought July 2021. 58,000 miles and counting...
2005 Discovery 3 HSE Auto. Bought Feb 2019. 169,000 miles and counting...
2009 Freelander 2 XS Manual. Bought Sep 2013. SOLD Aug 2021 (already regretted!)

https://youtube.com/channel/UCO_u_0D45x9KGfiNstzLJnw 
 
Post #21981941st Jan 2021 7:14 pm
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RRUK
Site Supporter 


Member Since: 16 Aug 2005
Location: UK
Posts: 643

United Kingdom 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Santorini BlackDiscovery 4

I did this earlier in the week and have to say, it's a very easy task.

Things I found:

The in-line box on the cabling does indeed fit down the left side of the dash behind the A pillar cladding. I pulled it all through and cable tied it together in front of the fuse box. This leaves the A pillar as it was, with no bundled cables or potential issues for the airbags etc.

There's no need to remove the bonnet pull section of trim in order to get the little trim piece out to the side of the dashboard (near the airbag switch off), it has one fastener and pops out on its own. I then fed the earth wire through from the fuse box area to the top screw that is revealed when you remove this ruler sized piece of trim.

I mounted my camera on the passenger side of the windscreen, behind the rear view mirror, such that it did not distract me whilst driving. I can reach it to press the save button but apart from that you shouldn't need to play with it anyway.
 1998 Defender 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF

2016 Discovery 4 HSE

1982 Series 3 2.25 Petrol Hard top- Oscar, as featured in Classic Land Rover Magazine for 7 months 


Last edited by RRUK on 11th Jan 2021 4:34 pm. Edited 1 time in total 
Post #22000618th Jan 2021 12:23 pm
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RRUK
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Member Since: 16 Aug 2005
Location: UK
Posts: 643

United Kingdom 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Santorini BlackDiscovery 4

Also, to answer my own previous question (so that it may help others in the future):

Q: Can I ask why you didn’t go for a permanent live, so that the camera can detect movement at night if someone tried to break in etc

Firstly, there's a greater chance you can deplete a battery if it's running live constantly, secondly, the NextBase cameras have a built in L-ion battery for the parking feature, which detects minor g force to active the camera. I have found that this can be as gentle as unlocking the doors via the remote or tapping on a body panel, so a switched live is fine.
 1998 Defender 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF

2016 Discovery 4 HSE

1982 Series 3 2.25 Petrol Hard top- Oscar, as featured in Classic Land Rover Magazine for 7 months 
 
Post #22000628th Jan 2021 12:28 pm
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maxbasscat
 


Member Since: 03 Jan 2016
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 1263

Ukraine 2005 LR3 4.4 V8 SE Auto Tonga GreenLR3

I was looking for similar hardwire instructions to my daughters Seat Leon after a few searches up popped a LR3/Disco 3 very useful so they are about for Disco’s I steered away from permanent live for exactly the same reason as RRUK.

Coincidence or what? We got three from Costco recently as they were on offer😉
 D3 2.7 Zermatt silver (not another one)
D3 4.4 V8 Zambezi silver
D3 4.4 V8 Adriatic Blue
D3 2.7 (gone) Tonga Green
D3 4.4 V8 LHD Tonga Green
FFRR TDV8
Defender 300 
 
Post #22000778th Jan 2021 1:35 pm
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33Lurcher
 


Member Since: 29 Jun 2017
Location: Glossop
Posts: 228

United Kingdom 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 SE Tech Auto Loire BlueDiscovery 4

Just as a matter of interest like many others I have had several battery issues this year (many charges via CTEX) . Since i have stopped my Thinkware Dashcam (hard wired) from permanently recording in parking mode the low battery warning appear to be no longer present .
Will monitor the situation .
  
Post #22004699th Jan 2021 5:01 pm
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Troutnut
 


Member Since: 31 Jan 2019
Location: Belfast
Posts: 24

Northern Ireland 

Thanks Lurcher,
I had hard wired dash cam earlier last year and basically forgot about it.
Myself and Mrs had to isolate for 10 days recently , hazard a guess why, but on first start warning appeared telling me to start and run engine, i.e battery low. Started fine but thought battery was on way out but checked and I had dash cam on permanent record. Have changed settings and will leave and check.
Hopefully that is battery worry sorted as would not have thought the dash cam would have drawn enough power.
  
Post #22005839th Jan 2021 11:27 pm
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