poprivit wrote:

gstuart wrote:

Pete K wrote:

On my house I just have an MK outside socket, and a 13A switched spur inside (good to isolate if water gets in or stopping neighbors using your leccy)


The white fuse adaptor is belt a braces should a fault happen while you are testing, which is unlikely.

It sounds to me as if you haven't set your volt meter to a low enough range. 200mV I think is required.
They can't all be reading zero.

Test/practice on the 20A suspension one.

thought that about putting a socket outside , just thought it easier i can then hide the ctek in doors , ie if i go out with the dogs

didn’t realise at first the ctek short lead i’ve connected to the battery has small lights on it

the zero readings are when i set the meter to ac, for the alternator test

i will recheck the meter ref it’s settings, i did use my other multimeter to double check every small fuses and after the time out everyone showed zero , just in case i need to double check them to ensure they making contact with the meter probes 100% on the small fuses

these are the meters i’m using

Not sure if this will help, but i posted a short run through on what i did to help find my drain.
I found reading via the main earth cable was more consistent. Also didn't see in this post if you had closed out the bonnet open switch. If you close the bonnet catches with a screw driver it will allow the ECU's to go into sleep mode after around 2 min once you lock the car. You can then see what the drain is and i closed the door catch to allow access to the passenger footwell and fuse box. Defiantly worth removing the Fuse links first if you still have a drain above .5a

Hi

many thks, need all the help i can get and will look for ur thread ,

indeed, i did link the bonnet catch out and waited over 30 x mins after setting the alarm

i have now replaced the faulty split charge solonoid so is now working

however i must recheck the landy to ensure if there is still a drain , i did disconnect the split charge system when i done the test and will do the same , in order there’s no interference

have mainly been using the clamp meter , also set my meter on AC and put it across pos and earth with the engine running , to see if there was any diode feedback and meter was zero

will have a read of ur post and then when the weather is abit better get back rechecking for any drainage

thks so much once again

  

Batfink wrote:

Here you go.

Hi

Bless u for doing that , thank u so much

Email hasn’t come through yet and indeed that will be very helpful being able to zoom in and comparing them side by side

Determined to resolve this and will make sure I update this thread as and when I find the culprit

Thks again

  

Batfink wrote:

I've sent it to you via email aswell if you need to zoom in on anything.

Hi

Just been comparing them and see I’ve got fuse F5 where u haven’t ??

Also see , both fuses are fitted for heated seats on mine , i did retrofit electric seats but not heated , fuses F7/F8 , so will pull them for starters to see if it makes any difference

just looked ref fuse F5 , it’s for petrol EMS ??? , so think I will take that out, is missing on urs

Also got both fuses fitted for a front heated screen, I haven’t got one

Thks again

My fuse box



Yours