Member Since: 01 Apr 2015
Location: Shropshire, UK
Posts: 1081
help - brake disk bolt
Am in the middle of changing disks and pads, but the replacement torx bolt in the pack appears to be made of a softer cheese, and in tightening it, the starred head has stripped. Can't get it off, can't tell if it's on enough.....
any suggestions for safe removal? Have tried hitting the driver head into the bolt with hammer, but it's past that.....
drill out?
cut slot and try to turn (can't see me moving it with screwdriver, as it's close to 35Nm torque....)?
help please!
19th Apr 2018 7:03 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4398
Leave it be until next brake disc change! The screw only keeps the disc on while you put the wheels on. It's not critical.Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
19th Apr 2018 7:05 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2290
Information removed.D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
Last edited by DN on 19th Apr 2018 7:36 pm. Edited 1 time in total
19th Apr 2018 7:07 pm
xcentric
Member Since: 01 Apr 2015
Location: Shropshire, UK
Posts: 1081
rrhool wrote:
Leave it be until next brake disc change! The screw only keeps the disc on while you put the wheels on. It's not critical.
ok thanks will try that and fix it when I have more time.
One other thing - the new pads from advanced factors: 2 are like those there, but the other 2 each have a silver cylindrical bolt screwed into one end, giving a cylindrical protuberance at right angles to the pad, on the outside - what is this, and which side (inside or outside) does it go?
edited for picture:
Last edited by xcentric on 19th Apr 2018 7:29 pm. Edited 1 time in total
19th Apr 2018 7:21 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8043
If you mean the one that holds the disc on you could manage without it, it only holds the disc in place while you put the wheel on, almost a certainty you’ve use a wrong size torque key, very very easy done, the correct size is almost a knock in fit whilst the size down is a loose fit.
There is only one possible way without drilling, perish the thought, buy a good quality small chisel 10mm wide, or sharpen an old Allen key if you have the facilities and chisel it out by hitting it on one side of the head anti-clockwise.
The pads usually have a champher on the friction material on the rear when offering it into the permanent position, this is to help reduce vibration, squealing and bedding in.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
Last edited by M3DPO on 19th Apr 2018 7:35 pm. Edited 1 time in total
19th Apr 2018 7:25 pm
xcentric
Member Since: 01 Apr 2015
Location: Shropshire, UK
Posts: 1081
Quote:
There is only one possible way without drilling, perish the thought, buy a good quality small chisel 10mm wide, or sharpen an old Allen key if you have the facilities and chisel it out by hitting it on one side of the head anti-clockwise.
now that is a good idea - thanks.
I used a T50 one, which I am pretty sure is the right size. Hey ho.
19th Apr 2018 7:31 pm
MikeO
Member Since: 15 Jan 2014
Location: The Cotswolds
Posts: 1370
When it happened to me I cut a slot and then a few sharp taps with a chisel engaged in the slot got it out.2016 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate
<gone>2009 FF Vogue TDV8 Buckingham Blue</gone>
<gone>2015 BMW 520D SE (not my favourite car)</gone>
<gone>2009 D3 HSE Galway Green</gone
19th Apr 2018 9:52 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8043
xcentric wrote:
Quote:
There is only one possible way without drilling, perish the thought, buy a good quality small chisel 10mm wide, or sharpen an old Allen key if you have the facilities and chisel it out by hitting it on one side of the head anti-clockwise.
now that is a good idea - thanks.
I used a T50 one, which I am pretty sure is the right size. Hey ho.
You could also buy a hand held impact driver, they are like a hand chisel that takes interchangeable bits, you put the appropriate bit in, oversize in your case and hit it with a hammer, on impact the bit turns 1/4 of a turn, they where very popular a few years back and cost around a tenner.
This type of thing, but there are cheaper around if you can find one, they are always a useful addition to a tool box
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Multi-Purpose-H...SwuGZavUruIt can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
20th Apr 2018 7:04 am
MikeO
Member Since: 15 Jan 2014
Location: The Cotswolds
Posts: 1370
Sods law. I went to charge my rear disks tonight and the screw was completely chewed and wouldn't budge. An hour later and still swearing profusely I was about to give in. Then I tried a different bit, hammered it in tight and hey presto it cracked!2016 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate
<gone>2009 FF Vogue TDV8 Buckingham Blue</gone>
<gone>2015 BMW 520D SE (not my favourite car)</gone>
<gone>2009 D3 HSE Galway Green</gone
20th Apr 2018 5:21 pm
xcentric
Member Since: 01 Apr 2015
Location: Shropshire, UK
Posts: 1081
glad you got it sorted. Am going to replace my Dremel and cut a small slot and chisel, but only when am back from abroad.....
impact driver is also a good call - think I have one of those on my compressor kit, too, if only it wasn't all stored away.....
20th Apr 2018 5:57 pm
dunton10
Member Since: 23 Dec 2006
Location: SUTTON COLDFIELD, WEST MIDS
Posts: 205
The silver cylinder thing is a vibration damper and from my research the pad with this on goes on the outside (wheel side) of the disc with the silver bit at the top. Hope this is correct I’m doing my fronts Wednesday and rears Thursday. Hoping for decent weather and that it all goes well. Done them deuce before on my D3 but not on my D4.Currently 2015 D4 SE Tech, Corris Grey
RLD Protector, led interior lights, timed climate, towing equipment
Previously
2006 D3 S
2001 TD5
1996 Shogun LWB
1989 Range Rover TDVM
22nd Apr 2018 8:36 pm
xcentric
Member Since: 01 Apr 2015
Location: Shropshire, UK
Posts: 1081
yup thats what I found. Not one on the rears, iirc. Hence I was confused to see one on the fronts, but to be fair the ones I took off did have it but they were hard to see as obscured in brake dust! Use Bodsy's brake bible and it's pretty easy, actually. I took longer finding my tools than I did to do the job (except for stripping the bolt head....)
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum