Member Since: 07 Jul 2020
Location: London
Posts: 4
Hood loops for kayak tie downs?
Hi, was wondering what others do for front tie downs for kayaks or canoes? I figured that doing lots of miles at reasonable speed with a tie down to the front lashing points is going to give me a paintwork touch up bill at some point. I came across these hood loops (pic 1) on t’internet and wondered if anyone else has used them and where they fix to? I have done no end of googling and can’t find any answers even tried workshop manual for fixings points. I think they can fix to the painted bolt in the photo (pic 2) - last shot is the underneath of said bolt. Any help much appreciated! Thanks!
7th Jul 2020 9:06 pm
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 347
Don't bother - compared with cars you can get the roof rack beams a fair distance apart. Strap it down to the roof rack beams and set off. If you feel wary put a strap from the tow bar to the rear of the canoe. If you loose it it will get towed after you and not hit another car.
I went over Shap on M6 at 70 MPH into a gale (supposedly 60mph winds) like that and the canoe stayed on the Disco 3.
I do however do as you suggesting on my Honda as the roof rack beams are much closer together. I just found a suitable bolt on the inner wing, got a loop of strap and punched/heated a hole through it and trapped it between 2 washers under the bolt head. It is orientated so you can lift the bonnet and flap it out, or fold it inwards so that when you shut the bonnet you can't see it.
Adrian
7th Jul 2020 9:23 pm
Ben4
Member Since: 28 Apr 2017
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 934
These strike me as a good idea.
Am building a Canadian canoe at the end of the month, then I’ll be bringing it home on the prospeed roof rack.
5 hours on the motorway so reckon a front line can only be a good thing.formerly Disco3Ben
2016 D4, Santorini Black
2007 D3, Black - sold
8th Jul 2020 9:30 am
pjm-84
Member Since: 04 Oct 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 2432
I use to put my 1x scull (8.3m long) on my D2 on the OEM roof bars(which flexed). Tie downs front and back where a requirement.
I forget a rear tie down one day and didn't get to the end of the road before realizing. Braking for a speed bump had the scull dipping right in front of my eyeline.
8th Jul 2020 9:42 am
ronp
Member Since: 29 Nov 2006
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 15213
Had already made my own loops - same as OP's pic.
Wasn't aware you could buy them.🏴
8th Jul 2020 9:47 am
Ben4
Member Since: 28 Apr 2017
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 934
Think I'll make one for the front and presume I could fit the rear tow bar for the back and tie to thatformerly Disco3Ben
2016 D4, Santorini Black
2007 D3, Black - sold
8th Jul 2020 10:12 am
JackNorris
Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Beds/Bucks Border
Posts: 1877
Instead of tow bar, could you not use rear towing eye?MY2023 Discovery 5 R-Dynamic 3.0
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8th Jul 2020 11:08 am
Ratty43
Member Since: 28 Nov 2018
Location: PENZANCE
Posts: 51
They are actually for securing bike racks to a hatch but the plastic dumbbell goes inside the engine bay or the boot with the strap dangling out, once the panel is closed the dumbbell cant come out and you can tighten the lashing.
Personally I wouldn't be happy moving our tandem without bow and stern lashings, after all it only has to fall off once.
8th Jul 2020 11:14 am
Ben4
Member Since: 28 Apr 2017
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 934
JackNorris wrote:
Instead of tow bar, could you not use rear towing eye?
oh yeah, of course!! formerly Disco3Ben
2016 D4, Santorini Black
2007 D3, Black - sold
8th Jul 2020 11:22 am
RogB
Member Since: 15 Jun 2018
Location: Mansfield
Posts: 1650
front and rear towing eyes can both be used for stopping front/back movement, lateral movement being stopped by lashing over the top of the canoe/kayak onto the roof bars.
But if you want to go the whole hog then fit some uprights or designated boat carriers onto the roof bars as well 2011 D4 XS 305 MY12 - gone but not forgotten
8th Jul 2020 11:30 am
discanoe
Member Since: 07 Jul 2020
Location: London
Posts: 4
Breg90 wrote:
Don't bother - compared with cars you can get the roof rack beams a fair distance apart. Strap it down to the roof rack beams and set off. If you feel wary put a strap from the tow bar to the rear of the canoe. If you loose it it will get towed after you and not hit another car.
I went over Shap on M6 at 70 MPH into a gale (supposedly 60mph winds) like that and the canoe stayed on the Disco 3.
I do however do as you suggesting on my Honda as the roof rack beams are much closer together. I just found a suitable bolt on the inner wing, got a loop of strap and punched/heated a hole through it and trapped it between 2 washers under the bolt head. It is orientated so you can lift the bonnet and flap it out, or fold it inwards so that when you shut the bonnet you can't see it.
Adrian
Thanks for this, shall definitely put a rear line on, I have nightmares about losing a boat on the motorway!
8th Jul 2020 1:29 pm
discanoe
Member Since: 07 Jul 2020
Location: London
Posts: 4
ronp wrote:
Had already made my own loops - same as OP's pic.
Wasn't aware you could buy them.
Ah thanks it's good to know others use them. Do you think I have the right fixing bolt?
8th Jul 2020 1:30 pm
ronp
Member Since: 29 Nov 2006
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 15213
Bolt looks spot on, but I'd add a couple of stainless washer to sandwich the strap and tighten down enough that lets it rotate.
Also as the bonnet is a 'clam' shape, I'd add some foam around the strap where it makes contact with the edge.
I'd never use just a single tie down rope/strap to the front or rear only.
You need both for light tension between front and rear, otherwise a single strap is going to want to pull the boat off in that direction.
Finally, I'd never use uprights on a Open Canoe fine for Kayaks .... but a def no no for Open Canoes.
Btw, anyone want to buy my new (outfitted) canoe?🏴
8th Jul 2020 1:50 pm
discanoe
Member Since: 07 Jul 2020
Location: London
Posts: 4
Much obliged sir. I'd thought of washers but not foam - great idea!
I have j cradles for the kayaks but will definitely be using tie downs front and rear (front both sides). I don't want to be worried about lift and having to drive 50mph everywhere...tripping from London to cornwall to river wye and back this holiday and 800 odd miles at 50 would be interminable.
Funny you should say about canoe - was thinking of buying recently but have decided to hire for one more summer trip first. Although I think we might be a little far away from each other to make a sale work!
8th Jul 2020 1:57 pm
RogB
Member Since: 15 Jun 2018
Location: Mansfield
Posts: 1650
ronp wrote:
Bolt looks spot on, but I'd add a couple of stainless washer to sandwich the strap and tighten down enough that lets it rotate.
Also as the bonnet is a 'clam' shape, I'd add some foam around the strap where it makes contact with the edge.
I'd never use just a single tie down rope/strap to the front or rear only.
You need both for light tension between front and rear, otherwise a single strap is going to want to pull the boat off in that direction.
Finally, I'd never use uprights on a Open Canoe fine for Kayaks .... but a def no no for Open Canoes.
Btw, anyone want to buy my new (outfitted) canoe?
I was a Kayak man so only used to lashing those to the tops of cars etc.
any time ive done open Canoe or Sailing etc ive always towed a specialist trailer2011 D4 XS 305 MY12 - gone but not forgotten
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