Member Since: 04 Jan 2021
Location: Lymington
Posts: 84
solid metal strap type should do it , the next one just hand tight u can feel it come up against the rubber seal then a tweak more,
any oil filter shouldn't be more than hand tight it will push the oring out of shape and likely leak
sealey do these two sizes i believe , the handle will swivel up out the way and use a tool on the handle then you can get it down low
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
is there room to get a chain on ?
18th Nov 2021 7:58 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13635
OvalAutos wrote:
BGS 1002 from Amazon
Put it as low as you can.
Hi
Plus 1, There brilliant and work really well, used one on my old freelander when the previous owner had seriously tightened it
Then after it was just a case of using a socket to change it each year
18th Nov 2021 10:17 pm
notyalc
Member Since: 07 Mar 2020
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 75
I wouldn’t trust a torque wrench that size at 25 Nm
Just saying…
19th Nov 2021 8:15 pm
natvegas
Member Since: 01 Nov 2021
Location: Somerset
Posts: 9
UPDATE
I did a bit of reasearch on the stongest webbing. Turns out it's Nylon.
Turns out it's not strong enough:
So removed some of the air intake assembly to get a bit more room at the front.
Managed to get this 2 inch webbing on:
The webbing didn't break! Hooray...
But something else did...
So new plan is to take it all out and replace the Oil Cooler if needed.
Still kicking myself...but thougth I'd give you guys a chuckle.
More updates later in the week.
21st Nov 2021 3:44 pm
munst
Member Since: 16 Sep 2020
Location: GLOS
Posts: 155
Is it crossthreaded or something you think? I'm amazed it hasn't budged.
21st Nov 2021 4:13 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4655
Maybe he added a couple of hero's to the torque wrench.
There's no need to torque it, just turn til it stops but I guess you know that now.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
21st Nov 2021 4:37 pm
disco4ever
Member Since: 23 Dec 2013
Location: under the car
Posts: 402
At least you are having plenty of space, a jigsaw will cut into it towards the bottom. Close to the threaded part of the housing. Then a chissel and a hammer will do the rest.Achim
own garage certified LR tech
Disco 2 TD5 MY 2001 - gone but still driven by another owner
Defender 110 TD5 driving me bananas with all faults
Disco 3 TDV 6 HSE MY 2005 gone @280.000 km
Disco 4 SDV 6 HSE MY 2012
21st Nov 2021 6:11 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1815
Re: UPDATE
natvegas wrote:
But something else did...
.
Sorry, i can not believe it, but a drill straight through and then a protruding bar end should have done the job perfectly… i think…( as big as possible.. like M10 or even bigger..)
That is how we use to do problematic oil filters (and if there is room/space to work)
Those used tools just causes deforming the filterhousing, making them more difficult to remove IMHO..
When removing the rest, make sure, all debris is removed and not fallen into the engine oil canals..Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
21st Nov 2021 8:20 pm
OvalAutos
Member Since: 28 Dec 2018
Location: Cradley Heath
Posts: 382
Joe
22nd Nov 2021 12:32 pm
natvegas
Member Since: 01 Nov 2021
Location: Somerset
Posts: 9
Progress being made...
Hi guys
Thanks again for all the helpful suggestions.
I thought I would give you a progress report and a few more moments of stupidity to cheer you up.
So the plan was to cut the top off of the oil filter housing with a Dremel.
Pull out the filter and then cut down the housing from the inside all the way around.
Unfortunately I couldn't get the filter to come straight up.
I decided to get more front access by removing some elements of the air intake system.
Then using a multitool cut open the front for some more space.
And yes if you look closely you can see I cut the breather pipe...
New part ordered.
Big shout out to Shane's Shed (https://www.youtube.com/user/Offroad80s) for the video guide for Oil Cooler removal.
Removing the Fuel pipe a brittle clip shattered just like Shane in his video.
Removing the EGR crossover is a bit tricky getting to the small bolts right at the back of the engine.
Just as I was gettting to the last pull on the ratchet spanner, I lost the grip and dropped it down the back of the engine...
Anyway I put both those issues to the back of my mind and cut down the housing as planned.
Followed Shanes instructions and removed the glow plug harnesses.
I used this tool to pull them right up. Worked a treat.
Wiggled the Oil Separator out, actually came out pretty quick but I did rewatch Shane doing it about 10 times before I tried.
Then removed the Oil Cooler.
As you can see its probably a good thing as there is a leak in the gasket.
Cleaned it all up. Very anoying bits of plastic everywhere from the rotten wire protectors. But managed to avoid any dropping down holes.
Once nice and clean dropped in the new Oil Cooler.
Turns out the pipe with the broken clip was also broke at the other end so replaced the whole pipe.
Now for that lost spanner...
And there it is!
The seals on the oil separator were split so currently waiting on that part to arrive.
Then hopefully will get everything else back in without too many more mishaps...
But you never know!
Cheers all.
4th Dec 2021 7:30 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10363
Well done for getting the lost spanner back.
Very difficult challange that
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