Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4628
I believe all opinions are welcome and to be encouraged, it is this which makes this place the success it is.
I made no reference as to your right to have an opinion, but you choose to publish your opinion on a public forum with a very large international membership.
And so you should reasonably expect it will be subject to scrutiny, if not rebuttal.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
28th Dec 2020 2:14 am
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2459
28th Dec 2020 8:54 am
Kviasen
Member Since: 24 Dec 2020
Location: Norway
Posts: 107
I actually ment that it was Profsr that had right to an opinion but lets say that by trying to clean it it can go both ways 😎
28th Dec 2020 10:43 am
GDM
Member Since: 18 Oct 2020
Location: Midhurst, West Sussex
Posts: 144
I took the Discovery for a run today and there was no improvement from checking the actuator linkage, or cleaning the MAP sensor. I checked the codes again this evening and I still had the PO23D code and also this one: -
I cleared both, went for a 10 mile run and neither returned. However, performance is still the same.
30th Dec 2020 2:21 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4628
Just check the plug on the MAF sensor and then clear the fault, check also you're air filter is not filthy.
If it persists you may need to replace it but it's performance can be assessed in "live values"
Remember too that the power starts to kick in at around 1500 rpm! yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
30th Dec 2020 2:55 am
Kviasen
Member Since: 24 Dec 2020
Location: Norway
Posts: 107
You have to check all the turbo/ intercooler hoses for splits or deformation and even the intercooler itself.
The last fault code P0101 points to that there is a mismatch of air sendt to engine and what actually ends up in the engine.
30th Dec 2020 9:56 am
GDM
Member Since: 18 Oct 2020
Location: Midhurst, West Sussex
Posts: 144
PROFSR G wrote:
Just check the plug on the MAF sensor and then clear the fault, check also you're air filter is not filthy.
If it persists you may need to replace it but it's performance can be assessed in "live values"
Remember too that the power starts to kick in at around 1500 rpm!
Will check the plug. The P. O. was quite meticulous about servicing, so I would think that the filter would be alright but I will check.
The power on this doesn't come in until about 2000 RPM. I am beginning to think that it could be a worn out turbo.
31st Dec 2020 12:12 am
GDM
Member Since: 18 Oct 2020
Location: Midhurst, West Sussex
Posts: 144
Kviasen wrote:
You have to check all the turbo/ intercooler hoses for splits or deformation and even the intercooler itself.
The last fault code P0101 points to that there is a mismatch of air sendt to engine and what actually ends up in the engine.
I did think about the turbo hoses but I have had split ones before on a D5 and a Td6 RR and they were not quite like this, more noise when accelerating and less power across the whole rev range. Worth a check though, I suppose.
31st Dec 2020 12:15 am
GDM
Member Since: 18 Oct 2020
Location: Midhurst, West Sussex
Posts: 144
Oddly the car does now seem to pull a bit better at lower revs. I am still getting a MAP sensor fault code though, so I guess it would be worth fitting a new one.
2nd Jan 2021 1:11 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4628
MAP sensor only, or MAP and MAF? And, after how long a drive / ign cycles?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
2nd Jan 2021 2:04 am
GDM
Member Since: 18 Oct 2020
Location: Midhurst, West Sussex
Posts: 144
MAP sensor only at the moment but I haven't taken it for a long drive yet. A new sensor is only £60, so I have ordered one just to eliminate it.
3rd Jan 2021 9:44 am
GDM
Member Since: 18 Oct 2020
Location: Midhurst, West Sussex
Posts: 144
I have now fitted a new MAP sensor and cleared the codes and it seems to be pulling a lot better at lower revs. In 6th on the motorway it will now pull reasonably strongly from about 1500 RPM. Hopefully problem solved but I will try and remember to lubricate the turbo wastegate actuator regularly.
Thanks for all the help.
9th Jan 2021 2:12 am
GDM
Member Since: 18 Oct 2020
Location: Midhurst, West Sussex
Posts: 144
Back again!
The car did seem a bit better after I changed the MAP sensor but it still wasn't as it should be and towing again a couple of times recently has highlighted this. I still have no EML on the dash.
I have been searching some more on the forum and found some other possible causes of this problem.
EGR faults - The EGRs have been blanked by a previous owner. This has been done by removing the link pipes between the EGR valves and the inlet manifold, and blanking the ports. Is this correct, or should the valves themselves be removed.
Turbo intake pipe-work - I have checked that there is a seal present where the two pipes join beside the radiator and have re-attached the pipe securely to the MAF. The flexi parts of the pipe seem to be ok too. I just need to check the pipework connection to the turbo. Can this be seen through the wheel-arch, or is it best done underneath?
Exhaust link pipe - I can't see this from the top of the engine, is it easily visible from underneath the car?
Turbo impellor stripped - I have see a video on Youtube of a guy changing the turbo from under the car and when he gets it out the exhaust impellor is virtually completely stripped of vanes. Is this very common? I guess it could cause this problem.
Any further advice would be much appreciated.
Glen.
18th Feb 2021 10:36 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4628
What fault codes are present now, and what MY is your D3?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
19th Feb 2021 3:19 am
KevinD3
Member Since: 05 Aug 2020
Location: Sutton Coldfield
Posts: 1205
GDM wrote:
Back again!
EGR faults - The EGRs have been blanked by a previous owner. This has been done by removing the link pipes between the EGR valves and the inlet manifold, and blanking the ports. Is this correct, or should the valves themselves be removed.
Glen.
Check that they’ve also removed the butterfly valve when they blanked the egrs, easily forgotten.
On a side note, most of us leave the link pipes intact. Blanking is an mot failure, and while the tester isn’t allowed to remove covers and poke around, and therefore normally can’t tell that it’s been done, missing 2ft long shiny pipes are a big give away2008 HSE Stornoway Grey
My Wife thinks the D3 is a hobby, The D3 thinks the wife is 💕
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