Long term ownership preventative maintenance - Dinitrol + ?
My March 2016 Landmark has now done 41k miles.
I am coming to the conclusion that I will be keeping it much longer than I anticipated as there isn't a realistic replacement on the horizon.
I would like a BE or decent hybrid Defender, but JLR don't seem to be going that way. The Rivian R1S is still looking attractive, but as discussed elsewhere is rather large to get through agricultural gateways & into UK car park spaces.
My Landmark has been pampered in terms of servicing, oil & filter change every 6k miles etc...but it's 4 year old now, and I think I'll be keeping it for at least another 4 + years. With that in mind what steps should I take to preserve it?
It's used gently off-road when I'm shooting, and I live off a by-way, so there's lots of mud about. I wash off the underside whenever there's salt on the road, or excessive mud build up. I don't wash the exterior very often, but the bodywork is 100%.
Is it worth treating with Dinitrol. In which case any ideas of cost & recommendations of someone to do it in South Hampshire would be appreciated.
Bodsy will flush the gearbox next time he's this way.
I have a WD warranty which runs until March 2021 when I expect to extend it for another 3 or 4 years.
What else should one consider?
NJSSAm I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
Last edited by NJSS on 3rd Jun 2020 8:52 am. Edited 1 time in total
3rd Jun 2020 8:15 am
Duc750
Member Since: 07 Aug 2017
Location: northampton
Posts: 305
If its going to be a real keeper take a look at the top end treatments from Buzzweld.
The basic treatment is equivalent to dinitrol really but clear which in my view is better as you can see if there are still issues underneath.
Thanks
Andy05 D3 V8 HSE, LR Passion tree bars, wildbear compressor guard, LRP switch panel, ARB rear locker + compressor, Trigger 6 shooter electrical system
12 RRS SDV6 HSE (Hers) - Gone and replaced with an I Pace - I can tell you now EV is not the future yet
Metalian Camper trailer
Buzzweld certainly looks impressive. No detail for D4, but assuming prices similar to D3 the full Platinum treatment would cost £3,500.
Basic is a more reasonable £500. They say:-
Quote:
We estimate the lifespan of U.P. conservatively to be between 12 and 36 months to first maintenance. This will vary based on the existing condition, and usage
NJSSAm I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
3rd Jun 2020 9:02 am
Duc750
Member Since: 07 Aug 2017
Location: northampton
Posts: 305
I've self applied their UP stuff to our sport and it seems to be holding up reasonably well and it had next to naff all prep before i put it on.
The D3 I'm going to go a bit deeper and prime, paint and cavity it on the drive.
I had my D2 done with Dinitrol by someone and to be honest I could have done it better myself so will do with the D3. The Dinitrol has worked to be fair but really could have been a lot better.
I think the thing is for a £500 treatment there isn't much else they can do other than steam clean mask and spray and what you really need is either that every couple of years or a decent abrasive run after the steam clean to get the loose off and to remove every single under try and water trap under the car. I removed a lot on the D 2 before the dinitrol but in hindsight the arch liners should have all been out. The tank should have been dropped etc etc. Thats where the extra money is coming in for Buzzweld. I know the first RRS they did they actually lifted the body to do it but that may have decided thats just not reasonable to do now05 D3 V8 HSE, LR Passion tree bars, wildbear compressor guard, LRP switch panel, ARB rear locker + compressor, Trigger 6 shooter electrical system
12 RRS SDV6 HSE (Hers) - Gone and replaced with an I Pace - I can tell you now EV is not the future yet
Metalian Camper trailer
If you are only keeping it 8 years, I wouldn’t bother doing anything. It won’t return any value to you and you really shouldn’t be seeing any issues relating to rust within 8 years. I’m actually in the middle of treating mine underneath at the minute. Mine is 10 years old and I don’t plan to get rid anytime soon. There is only surface rust present, albeit quite a bit. The body seems worse affected than the chassis. I wish I had a ramp as doing it on the drive is a PITA. I have some photos in another thread in the general section
3rd Jun 2020 10:56 am
Peakwayfarer
Member Since: 25 Apr 2016
Location: Uk
Posts: 434
Have a chat with CC automotive, he advertises on here, he did a very comprehensive on on my year old Landmark, which I also intended to keep for a good few years, but sadly the engine failed at 20k miles and having lost confidence in the brand, I then traded it in, once LR fitted its new engine. Still miss the practicality, but not the uncertainty.
3rd Jun 2020 10:59 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20713
I used Buzzweld on my D3 during its rebuild
Good stuff, gets good reviews, easy to use/apply. I'll see how my own long term stuff lasts, but so far, the only thing tonreport is the WAR topcoat seems to have shrunk a little in places, the R.E showing through a littleMy D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 13 Aug 2009
Location: Not London Anymore (or the US for that matter)
Posts: 1923
Just my tuppence; I've had maybe 8 D3s and D4s and have gone back and forth about doing this. I've had a couple of brand new cars and thought about doing it then but didn't, which is just as well as I kept swapping them out and I'd never have got the money back.
I now have a 2006 LR3 V8 w/100K miles. I've had it 4 years and it's been very well looked after by me and was a 'soccer mum' car before that, with full LRSH and basically over-maintained.
I admit that I don't off-road it (it goes on tracks and camping, but I don't do hobby 4x4 stuff) but the salt in the US where we are in the winter is a HUGE issue for cars. There's a ton of it.
I put the car through a full wash including underside wash and protection every week in the winter. The car has next to no rust (usual stuff on welds, etc) but on a 14 YO car in harsh conditions it's nothing.
Noting that I don't off-road, I'd say spend the money on keeping the underside clean; wash it regularly in the winter and save the money on underbody sealing just because the cars don't need it. If they did, in the salt they throw on the roads here mine would be a pile of brown chips.PAGODA
3rd Jun 2020 12:37 pm
Green Land Rover
Member Since: 21 Oct 2017
Location: Stourbridge
Posts: 408
I had my Defender done by Chris Calvert (aka Zagato on here) and he did a cracking job.
Going to get my D4 done later in the year after the Covid-19 situation has calmed down.
Regards,
JasonDiscovery 4 HSE - Aintree Green
Freelander 2 TD4 SE Automatic - Tonga Green
Defender XS - Tonga Green - Gone Now
Freelander 1 Td4 ES Manual - Epsom Green - Gone Now
Freelander 1 Td4 Kalahari SE - Epsom Green - Gone Now
Freelander 1 XEi - Epsom Green - Gone Now
That’s CC automotive, as I mentioned above, Chris did a fantastic job on my D4 landmark. He advertises and is a sponsor on this forum.
3rd Jun 2020 7:45 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Under 10yrs save your money.
3rd Jun 2020 8:39 pm
Moo D3 Decade
Member Since: 13 Aug 2010
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 13805
My Old Bus was 14 years old when I sold her. Other than keeping in good mechanical fettle, I did nothing preventative to her and she was the most stupidly reliable car I have ever owned and was in really good condition from the chassis up for her age.
Gerty, my D4, is 7 years old and is also in good form and fettle.
Personally Id look after your car mechanically and forget the rest. New Defender L663 110 SE (known as Noddy!)
Sold Volvo XC90 R-Design (known as Basil)
Sold - D4 HSE (Known as Gerty)
No longer the Old Buses original owner
231,000 miles and counting
05 S manual owned from March 2005
D4 Face lifted
Still original injectors and turbo
V8 Front brakes
BAS Remap, Allisport Intercooler and deCat
EGRs blanked
T-Max split charge
Hanibal Expeedition rack
Prospeed ladder
Duratrac tyres
IID BT
BAS FBH control
3rd Jun 2020 10:30 pm
Bleeding knuckles
Member Since: 10 Jan 2019
Location: Kent
Posts: 114
What about the before n after chap he does two different type of applications think he’s about the £7-800 mark for a D3/42005 D3 SE Auto, zermatt silver
Gearbox flush by terrain vehicles
V8 brake upgrade
Will always ask silly questions
I think the message is quite clear.Am I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
13th Jun 2020 6:53 am
kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6538
Bleeding knuckles wrote:
What about the before n after chap he does two different type of applications think he’s about the £7-800 mark for a D3/4
This seems to come up every now and then but the consensus seems to be.... just say no
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