I am convinced that my FBH is not well - previously it was an intermittent failure to sustain and now it is almost impossible to get it running. It has been perfect until this year, which is ironic as I left it until this year before fitting an FBH controller. Not sure what to do next as I am struggling to find a service centre that will look at a 'V' and depressingly they direct me towards LR. LR are no help as they will only want to replace a whole unit.
I am tempted to try a service job myself but having never done this before I am apprehensive as to the work involved. I guess I could but the Webasto software and adaptor to see if that offers any additional insight but I suspect I would only be delaying the inevitable strip-down.
What I have gleaned from the Webasto dealers is that these heaters require regular servicing (cleaning out carbon etc) and were rather shocked that mine worked at all given that it has never been apart in nearly 7 years of use - albeit they run for shorter periods on cars than trucks / boats etc.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 10 Jul 2006
Location: Rosyth, Fife
What I have gleaned from the Webasto dealers is that these heaters require regular servicing (cleaning out carbon etc) and were rather shocked that mine worked at all given that it has never been apart in nearly 7 years of use - albeit they run for shorter periods on cars than trucks / boats etc.
This seems strange as you said earlier that spares were not available. Whats the point of them saying it should be serviced regularly, but not being able to fit any parts that were required
Seems to be pretty poor product support from Webasto, which is strange due to the size of the company throughout Europe.
The service requirement, spares and warranty support they refer to is for regular Webasto heaters. The ones fitted to the D3 (Thermo Top V) require a similar level of support but in our case this is provided by Land Rover rather than the OEM. If you buy direct from Webasto they provide the after sales support.
Apologies if my original post was not clear enough.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 10 Jul 2006
Location: Rosyth, Fife
But if you have a problem with the Thermo Top V and you go to Landrover, they will not strip it down for repair, they only want to replace it. Even if they did agree to strip it down for repair there are no spares available, or have I missed something entirely. ?
Robbie - If I didn't know better I'd think you were writing about my FBH
Seriously though, I seem to be having similar issue to you and it appears to be coolant pump related. I've still got a couple of checks to do (advice via BAS) but to be honest, not hopeful and think I too will be looking to replace the whole unit. That said, from my previous observations, I think it's probably a fault on the PCB but not sure how I / if I, will be able to do anything about it.
Spoke to them a few weeks ago, very helpful. Might be worth a try. The unit has to be out of your car...Graham
New: 18MY BMW 740e Plug-in Hybrid M Sport
New: 17MY Evoque 2.0 TD4 SE Tech Loire Blue / Cirrus Grey
Robbie - not sure if you have already sourced but I have found a workshop manual for the Thermo Top V and I see that the coolant pump resistance should be 10 (+/- 1) kohms so that's next on my list to check.
TVM - I do have a workshop manual for the V but I don't seem to have worked my way through as far as you, so very interested to see how far you get. I am convinced that my original issue was a failure to sustain due to glowplug/flame detector fighting the residual crud. Having got beyond that issue and having the heater work fine for a number of weeks this 'new' failure sees the FBH run for longer before shutting down, so your coolant thoughts sound persuasive!
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Robbie - my coolant pump errors mean the unit tends not to fire at all; seems the error code prevents the ignition cycle. It all whirrs and the fan runs but because the unit detects that the coolant pump circuit has failed (B1D27 DTC) it simply shuts down again. With the BAS controller it tries the obligatory 3 times but 99% of the time, no success.
The one time it did fire recently was when I started the egine in -2C temp and very quickly cleared down the error codes. This seemed to force it to start but I cannot repeat it so it's back to the drawing board.
The unit's PCB obviously has a means of detecting if the coolant pump circuit is nominal, that's why my next stop is to check the motor winding resistance, based on the 'hope' that the circuit is outside the 10K ohms range and failing as a result ?? The pump itself works fine when disconnected from the unit and given a straight 12 v from the battery, it has been suggested elsewhere on the forum that the pump control circuit is not quite so crude as to simply provide 12v - typical
Sorry if it appears to be a bit of a ramble but.................I'm sure you know exactly what I am feeling
Edit; Thought ?? If I was to apply a 10K ohm shunt across the pump circuit terminals, would that make the unit think all was OK and possibly provide a means of discounting the pump ??
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum