Member Since: 04 Jan 2023
Location: Essex
Posts: 536
Mot Inspection of brake pipes
When the D4 was at the stealers for the belts to be changed they did a routine eyeball of the undersides for problems (touting for business ) and picked up corrosion of the rear brake pipes. The cost from them to replace the pipes was eye watering
Took the car to our local garage who I would get to MoT and replace the pipes as they said I could look for myself on the lift. Indeed they are corroded but would be a borderline fail.
One problem is the Testing manual refers to a reduction in wall thickness of 1/3 is the fail point but the corrosion has made the pipes fatter not thinner. They are not allowed to do things like scrape the pipe so how would they know how bad it actually is?
The other thing I read was that the use of repair unions that use ferrules are not allowed, didn't think you could buy them any more.A visitor from the dark side, my other vehicle is an MG5 EV
25th Mar 2024 6:08 pm
stephenw46
Member Since: 22 Jun 2011
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 1156
I had exactly the same with my dealership i checked them cleaned them up all was fine past its mot no advisories then as been back to to the dealership for service this time they didn’t pick anything up lol
25th Mar 2024 6:23 pm
chugga90
Member Since: 13 Aug 2014
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 434
On mot last year my now departed D4 had it picked up.
The independent I use replaced the rear section of the pipes with a Land Rover made repairs kit.
So they have acknowledged the problem and made a solution.
I think the kit was around £80.00 per side?Discovery commercial tdv6 auto 2013
Volkswagen t6 lwb Kombi dsg 4motion 2018
Volkswagen t5.1 lwb single cab tipper 2013
Discovery commercial sdv6 auto 2014 gone and not really missed.
Range Rover Tdv8 gone
Freelander 2 I6 very sadly gone
VW t5 Dsg gone and missed
25th Mar 2024 6:40 pm
stephenw46
Member Since: 22 Jun 2011
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 1156
The dealership wanted £650 to replace them , I will replace them myself when the weather gets warmer, I will make up pipes myself
25th Mar 2024 6:46 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10372
Member Since: 04 Jan 2023
Location: Essex
Posts: 536
At "only" 8 years old it is a little dissapointing that the pipes are suspect but the MoT is due in June so come the time I won't ask the inspector to make a judgement even if I think they are acceptable. It will go in for new pipes and then the MoT.
I have in my head LRTime's Christian doing his ones, never appearing as a fan of the German TUV (Mot) inspectors even he said "thank you TUV" as the pipe started weeping when Christian had a closer look.
Just not worth the risk.A visitor from the dark side, my other vehicle is an MG5 EV
27th Mar 2024 12:19 am
Gary_P
Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1525
Agreed. Do you live near the coast by any chance?Gary
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Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY
27th Mar 2024 1:06 am
HairyFool
Member Since: 04 Jan 2023
Location: Essex
Posts: 536
Yes, not far but I haven’t had it long so not entirely sure where it spent most of its life, it’s a Preston registration.
A job soon is to remove the steps, mudflats and arch liners to remove any crud that may have built up and do a bit of rust prevention.A visitor from the dark side, my other vehicle is an MG5 EV
27th Mar 2024 9:36 am
Gary_P
Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1525
Let me know what you decide , by way of rust prevention. I’ve been advised to use Lanoguard, but I checked and it states that it needs reapplying every year. The other thing that worries me now is that you might end up covering a dangerously deteriorated brake pipe.
Of course, the other issue is getting under the car to clean off and apply it, without a ramp or pit !Gary
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Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY
27th Mar 2024 11:20 am
HairyFool
Member Since: 04 Jan 2023
Location: Essex
Posts: 536
It will depend on how bad things are, I am hoping that I am soon enough to be preventing a problem instead of solving one. In non visible areas it may be better to use a rust converter such as Rustins.
One problem with a cover is you need to try and clean off as much as possible. I remember as an aircraft engineer the cleaners had a portable bead blaster that used what looked like a round vacuum cleaner brush head with the jet in the middle. It was reasonably effective as a blaster and the brush head kept the dust to a minimum.A visitor from the dark side, my other vehicle is an MG5 EV
28th Mar 2024 9:22 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2296
The corrosion on my D3 rear brake pipes was visible in quite a few areas, ( it was 15 + years old, at the time this got excessively bad), but no mention of it on MOT’s The worst areas were where the pipes run through the plastic clips on the body. If you are going to scurf the rust off, I would say, do these areas too, and obviously, reprotect afterwards. A small hole developed in mine ( under a clip), noticed by a drip on the tarmac when parked, after I had to slam the brakes on hard, when a woman pulled out from a side road, and then decided to stop, side on, in front of me 😳 Luckily I spotted the leak, and took it off the road immediately I got home, so I could cut the pipes above and left of the centre silencer, pull them out, and make up, (bend as original, flare) and fit copper / nickel replacements. Earlier in its life, I had smothered the steel brake pipes in grease where accessible, including under those clips, but the tin worm got there eventually.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
29th Mar 2024 1:03 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8118
HairyFool wrote:
Yes, not far but I haven’t had it long so not entirely sure where it spent most of its life, it’s a Preston registration.
A job soon is to remove the steps, mudflats and arch liners to remove any crud that may have built up and do a bit of rust prevention.
Make removing the side steps a priority they are the worst cause of corrosion than anything unless they been repainted and inside the sills treated for rust. It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
29th Mar 2024 9:51 am
Sylvester19
Member Since: 18 Jul 2020
Location: Central Scotland
Posts: 114
Take Disco Mickey's advice and replace them, easiest way to demonstrate how corroded they are, bend the pipe where the corrosion is, it'll snap, try the same with a new steel pipe!
30th Mar 2024 3:15 am
Worms
Member Since: 24 Sep 2023
Location: Highlands
Posts: 270
My D3 is currently off the road until I get this one sorted. It developed a brake fluid leak last week - at the rear-most clip on that long rear pipe, just before the joint to the rubber hose. With Easter in the way, I am looking at 7th April for delivery of the replacement pipes and connectors, while the flare tool will arrive today or tomorrow.
With the car jacked up on that side, I took the opportunity to remove the side step. As far as I can make out, it was only fitted in September just before I got it (as part of the bling-it-up-for-sale that the trader did). There is already a rust hole in the sill, where the middle mounting is. If anyone wants a set of six-month-old side steps let me know, but I don't recommend it!Previously:
2010 FL2 TD4e GS
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW - still got this, non-runner on SORN.
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel
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) and picked up corrosion of the rear brake pipes. The cost from them to replace the pipes was eye watering 
They are not allowed to do things like scrape the pipe so how would they know how bad it actually is?
The worst areas were where the pipes run through the plastic clips on the body. If you are going to scurf the rust off, I would say, do these areas too, and obviously, reprotect afterwards. A small hole developed in mine ( under a clip), noticed by a drip on the tarmac when parked, after I had to slam the brakes on hard, when a woman pulled out from a side road, and then decided to stop, side on, in front of me 😳 Luckily I spotted the leak, and took it off the road immediately I got home, so I could cut the pipes above and left of the centre silencer, pull them out, and make up, (bend as original, flare) and fit copper / nickel replacements. Earlier in its life, I had smothered the steel brake pipes in grease where accessible, including under those clips, but the tin worm got there eventually.
