Member Since: 03 Mar 2019
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 148
MY12 D4 steering wheel vibrations/shake at highway speeds
One of our MY12 D4's has a shake or vibrations coming through the steering wheel when traveling at highway speeds (above 80km, mainly at 110km/h). It's been there since I got it on the road so I don't have a prior baseline to compare to.
So far to try and resolve this I have:
Checked the tie rod ends for play.
Checked the steering rack to chassis bolts are tight (should be 175NM and I couldn't move them with an 18mm spanner so declared to be tight)
Checked the front diff support bolts (multistage torque setting and I couldn't move them with my 24mm spanner so declared to be tight)
Checked all axel shaft centre nuts are staked and haven't moved.
Checked tyre pressures and monitored for slow leaks.
Checked lower control arm bolts and ball joint are tight.
Swapped front and rear wheels.
With the car lifted turned the steering wheel while observing front wheel movement for freeplay.
Referred to LR Technical Service Bulletin LTB00317V8 that it's after the VIN range for the steering gear, steering wheel replacement for vibration. It does however state:
Quote:
If the vehicle has a wheel shimmy whilst driving and a judder and or vibration whilst braking and ... is not within the VIN range for Part Changes. Follow the Service Instruction outlined in Technical Service Bulletin LTB00633v2, appendix 1 and 2 and continue from Step 4.
Action: In the event of a customer concern of steering wheel vibration/shimmy/vehicle vibration, refer to the procedure outlined below to balance and optimise the tire/wheel assemblies and identify tires which may have a temporary flat spot condition.
Of relevance is that the front lower control arms were replaced recently, wheel alignment done in Tight Tolerance Mode and four new tyres fitted and balanced before it was registered and driven around.
I've also noticed that the front passenger/left side wheel has been coated in more brake dust than the other front side (driver/right). I've checked the brake callipers, cleaned and regreased the slide pins and all looked fine.
Ideas on what my next check might be? I think I will swap the wheels and tyres over from our other MY12 D4 to confirm that they're not the issue.Mine - modified MY03 LT L318 Discovery 2a HSE Td5 15P
Hers - MY12 L319 Discovery 4 Lion 2.7L TDV6
Dads - MY98 LJ Discovery ES 3.9L V8
28th Jan 2021 10:20 am
LIAMMCL
Member Since: 27 Aug 2013
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 404
Borrow another set of wheels from someone if possible, worth ruling them out at this stage first.
28th Jan 2021 11:34 am
twr7cx
Member Since: 03 Mar 2019
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 148
Yes, my father has the same vehicle which drives smooth so had thought of doing a wheel swap to see.
My other thought current is a wheel bearing being shot. I hadn't thought to check that but could explain all three symptoms of highway wobble, braking vibrations and the additional brake dust on one of the front wheels.Mine - modified MY03 LT L318 Discovery 2a HSE Td5 15P
Hers - MY12 L319 Discovery 4 Lion 2.7L TDV6
Dads - MY98 LJ Discovery ES 3.9L V8
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
28th Jan 2021 12:08 pm
twr7cx
Member Since: 03 Mar 2019
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 148
Member Since: 03 Mar 2019
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 148
Perhaps disappointingly but the wheel bearings/hub assemblies seem to check out fine. Jacked the front up and grabbing each side of the wheel pulled and pushed and in the small amount of movement that steering lock allows the brake caliper and tie rod ends are moving concurrently. There doesn't feel to be any free play. Certainly nothing like this example Discovery3 wheel hub bearing play - YouTube Mine - modified MY03 LT L318 Discovery 2a HSE Td5 15P
Hers - MY12 L319 Discovery 4 Lion 2.7L TDV6
Dads - MY98 LJ Discovery ES 3.9L V8
30th Jan 2021 12:08 am
Reallyfree
Member Since: 29 Jan 2021
Location: Monmouth
Posts: 10
I had similar vibration on another car. It turned out a replacement disc was not seated properly with a tiny corrosion layer underneath. It was more noticeable under braking but also vibrated at speed without any braking.
Easy check run-out with a dial gauge. Just a thought.
14th Feb 2021 1:06 pm
Eddywicker
Member Since: 01 Oct 2016
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 9
Once had a similar experience and it turned out to be a sticking piston in one of the brake callipers on the front.
HTH..
14th Feb 2021 3:27 pm
BadgerWazzala
Member Since: 12 Dec 2020
Location: UK
Posts: 32
I've had to replace wheel hub assembly for exactly the same reason.
If when you 'boot it' the vibration is less than if you're driving slowly then I'd bet fifty-pence its the hub that has play in it. Sometimes the hub has to be under load to encounter the vibration.
You haven't bee off-roading recently have you and thwacked a driveshaft?
Have you had your wheels repainted recently?
I've also encountered vibrations this when I have mud sat in my wheels ;-D
Last edited by BadgerWazzala on 14th Feb 2021 4:04 pm. Edited 1 time in total
14th Feb 2021 4:01 pm
BadgerWazzala
Member Since: 12 Dec 2020
Location: UK
Posts: 32
Reallyfree wrote:
I had similar vibration on another car. It turned out a replacement disc was not seated properly with a tiny corrosion layer underneath. It was more noticeable under braking but also vibrated at speed without any braking.
Easy check run-out with a dial gauge. Just a thought.
This is good advice. Warped discs definately do this.
14th Feb 2021 4:02 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72787
Hardware wrote:
Warped disc ?
What I thought. Been there, done that, bought the t-shirt.
14th Feb 2021 4:16 pm
Reallyfree
Member Since: 29 Jan 2021
Location: Monmouth
Posts: 10
Forgot the alloy-wheel refurb issue. Had this as well after a wheel refurb on a 5 series. i.e. vibration at speed. I know the process heats the wheel at say 200deg for 30mins or so. Okay I know wheels get hot with braking but I don’t think it’s that hot. This, along with the bead blasting to strip can surely change the structure of the metal and could cause warping.
Garage told me wheel had warped but didn’t look like an impact caused by a pot hole or curb. Had to replace wheel in the end, other 3 whelks were ok.
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