Member Since: 02 Jan 2019
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 11
P2290 - injector control pressure too low
think ive bought a lemon..... or at very least a very un cared for car
had the car a week now, after about 10 miles or so I pulled away fairly swiftly (its all relative) and the car died, F displayed on the dash, suspension fault, HDC fault, gearbox fault limited gears etc etc coast to a halt, turn it off, restart and all working again.
since then its happend a few times and getting more regular, each time accelerating, and now even gentle acceleration.
bought a diagnosic tool for the car as VCDS I have for VAG cars wont talk to it, scanned it and theres a shed load of codes
P2290 injector control pressure too low
U2023 (gearbox) fault received from external node
P0101 mass or volume air flow - circuit range/performance
p000E fuel volume regulator control exceeded learning limit
P0191 fuel rail pressure sensor range/performance
there also many more related to the suspension
I noted them all and cleared the codes, changed the fuel filter and took it for a drive
still the same, the codes that keep coming back are P2290 and U2023
with the ignition on I depress the shrader valve in the engine bag and get a dribble of fuel from it, how much fuel should come out of there?
next step??
in tank pump?
6th Feb 2019 9:49 pm
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
Have you got anything in the paperwork for recently carried out maintenance or repairsMetal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
6th Feb 2019 9:53 pm
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
Check your map and mas sensors make sure they’re clean but don’t poke them with anything use a spray cleanerMetal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
Last edited by Dazz360 on 6th Feb 2019 9:56 pm. Edited 1 time in total
6th Feb 2019 9:55 pm
D1scobiscuit
Member Since: 02 Jan 2019
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 11
like what?
6th Feb 2019 9:55 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4578
EGR or Carb cleaner, but I suspect you need a new fuel filter. (Original LR!)yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
6th Feb 2019 10:19 pm
D1scobiscuit
Member Since: 02 Jan 2019
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 11
I fitted a new filter today, its MANN, how can it not being genuine make that much difference?
6th Feb 2019 10:28 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4578
A Mann filter "should" be fine, but there are no shortage of cases on here where aftermarket filters caused problems, and not including my own experiences. That said, lets play with the Mann for now!
The pressure at the schrader valve should be in the region of about 7psi, a bit lower is acceptable.
You can also measure the flow rate at the schrader valve, at which a healthy pump should produce around 2.5 to 3.0 ltrs p/m. The acceptable minimum flow being just under 2.0ltrs p/m. If you are measuring the flow rate I think the cycle is around 20s, so an assistant to turn on/off the ign every 20 secs would be helpful!
See what's happening with either pressure or flow and if it does not measure up, the electrical side will need to be checked before condemning the pump.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
7th Feb 2019 2:42 am
BigAl
Member Since: 12 Mar 2012
Location: Bristol
Posts: 144
Have a search for Robbie’s guide to the low pressure fuel system, covers the whole topic👍
7th Feb 2019 5:18 pm
hugeviking
Member Since: 08 Jun 2010
Location: cotswolds
Posts: 1481
Does the car start ok ?
Confirm it is a manual, does the clutch seem to be slipping, i guess you would have mentioned if it was.
Andi.
7th Feb 2019 8:42 pm
D1scobiscuit
Member Since: 02 Jan 2019
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 11
Auto, and when it was really cold last week (-7) it wouldn't start in the morning without jump starting it off my van
7th Feb 2019 8:46 pm
hugeviking
Member Since: 08 Jun 2010
Location: cotswolds
Posts: 1481
At normal temps does it start pretty well straight away.
Reason i ask, when my LPFP was faulty it got harder to start but ran fine when started at first.
Andi.
7th Feb 2019 9:11 pm
D1scobiscuit
Member Since: 02 Jan 2019
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 11
Starts easily when it's already warm, or first thing this morning it was about 5-6 degrees it started first time
7th Feb 2019 9:14 pm
D1scobiscuit
Member Since: 02 Jan 2019
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 11
I measured the draw accross the 25A fuse firstly with the ignition on 5.5A and then with it running, 5.5A
Not sure if this tells anything, haven't got anything to measure the pressure at the shrader valve yet
7th Feb 2019 9:20 pm
hugeviking
Member Since: 08 Jun 2010
Location: cotswolds
Posts: 1481
As said mine got harder to start,however check the shrader valve when poss' if only to eliminate.
Andi.
7th Feb 2019 9:43 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4578
D1scobiscuit wrote:
I measured the draw accross the 25A fuse firstly with the ignition on 5.5A and then with it running, 5.5A
Not sure if this tells anything, haven't got anything to measure the pressure at the shrader valve yet
5.5 seems just a tad low to me, check it with the ign off just to be sure there is no undesirable draw. If you cant get your hands on a pressure gauge do the flow test instead. You want to see about 2.5ltrs p/m upwards if its healthy.
There is a detailed diagnosis on here to help you. Have a look in the wiki section yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
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