Member Since: 18 Dec 2008
Location: East London
Posts: 14
Raised Air intake - necessary??
I am worried about the exposure of the air intake on the disco 3 to the outside elements, even the owners manual warns of being careful when washing the car!? As far as I can see the intake on the side is a direct line for water into the engine - correct? When hosing it down the risk of spraying water into the air intake is huge, never mind the jets of water from the side in a car wash! Why is it so exposed? Is this a problem, if doing a fair amount of off-read driving including regular water crossings, is t worth investing in a raised air intake?
Any commetns or advice would be appreciated.
29th Dec 2008 9:06 am
heine
Member Since: 07 Feb 2007
Location: Midrand
Posts: 4054
Remember that the LR RAI is just that , a raised air intake - meaning it is not at all waterproof . I went for a safari snorkel which is totally sealed and cheaper than the LR one . FWIW car washes etc. will not be a problem
29th Dec 2008 9:21 am
Robster
Member Since: 17 Oct 2008
Location: Deregistered
Posts: 269
Is that really true?
Surely if they sell you a raised air intake it MUST be waterproof or it is a total waste of time and money????????
Robin
29th Dec 2008 9:34 am
heine
Member Since: 07 Feb 2007
Location: Midrand
Posts: 4054
That is why it is called a raised air intake and not a snorkel
29th Dec 2008 9:36 am
Robster
Member Since: 17 Oct 2008
Location: Deregistered
Posts: 269
So what exactly is the benefit of it then?
And does that mean the people who have it fitted and I have seen go blithely into much deeper water than I would dare are really putting their engines at significant risk?
Robin
29th Dec 2008 9:46 am
heine
Member Since: 07 Feb 2007
Location: Midrand
Posts: 4054
Cooler air , less dust , but the same wading depth still applies AFAIK
29th Dec 2008 9:48 am
Getafix
Member Since: 13 Sep 2007
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 229
I go through the auto car wash all the time. The air intake has holes internally to help it drain (I hope thats what they are for!!!!) I have not drowned yet. <*(((<<
After an exciting day on Salisbury plain last month (thanks guys!) I thought it worth taking a peek in the airbox I had been through some prett deep stuff (at speed!). The air intake on the side runs forward inside the wing then through a right angle bend which is perforated, then into the side of the air box, which has a drain valve. It was about 30mm deep in thick mud - my god!!! the bottom of the air filter was a bit muddy BUT the top was clean and more importantly - DRY!! and there was no sign of dirt/dust or mud on the inside of the lid above the filter.
I took off the ducting to the engine and took the airbox out to clean it, (it pulls out with a firm tug) after cleaning I replaced and tried to fill it up via a mains pressure hose from above and from the air intake in the wing - i couldnt!!! it would take a concentrated (probably in excess of 10 mins of direct - high volume water from a hose) to fill the box faster than the perfortated right angle and the box valve can dump it. hence car washes and even pressure hoses are not going to damage the engine. I also believe (but am not going to try it!) that the engine would stall before it sucked a copious volume up through the air filter into the engine even if you could maintain a high level in the airbox.
So, in my opnion, the system works (is fit for purpose) and all I need to do is buy a new air filter as it is almost certainly restricting the airflow to a degree.
Obviously wading at a level above the bottom of the air intake would cause significant ingress , hence the need for a steady speed and bow wave!
That said - i did also research RAI as well as snorkels - as either would have stopped the mud if not most of the water but £280 for some plastic piping is taking the !!! so i will stick with a degree of caution and a store of new air filters!!
just my opinion - so if you do find an ingenious way of drowning your D3 - dont blame me!!
I found some mud in mine after Salisbury the same as you Dave - and some debris was also stuck in the 1 way valve at the bottom of the filter box, causing it to stick open (it's a thin piece of rubber that allows water out but not in). Not a problem really, and after pouring some warm water through it, it's now clean and working as it should again. Like you say - the flow rate from the 2 airbox drains is quite high, so it would take a lot to fill it faster than it can drain out.Previously:
2005 D3 2.7 TDV6 S
1984 90 2.25 Petrol CSW
1992 90 200TDi Hard Top
1995 Discovery ES 300TDi
2003 90 TD5 Truck Cab
29th Dec 2008 11:05 am
IronMan
Member Since: 18 Jul 2006
Location: Midrand
Posts: 99
The RAI used here in S. Africa is NOT for water anyway.. it is for the dust in the air. You get cooler air and smaller dust particles. (Do yourself a fav and look at the section on Andrew White's 4x4 DVD series where they experimented with a RAI..)
Tried and tested results
If you drive off-road or dusty gravel roads like my D3 does daily - you need it
Trick to consider with D3 RAI: Bottom you have a hole for water to that enters to fall through.. Seal the RAI rim with silicone to make the connection with the D3 water tight, when you are considering going through deepish water use prestick (blue-tack for the UK guys) to plug the hole at the bottom for that section and remove I'm TorqTuned
29th Dec 2008 11:22 am
GLYNNE
Member Since: 06 Oct 2006
Location: KENT
Posts: 4654
So If you where going to buy a RAI would you get, the RAI or Snorkel.
Decisions, decisions
29th Dec 2008 11:23 am
simon
Member Since: 11 Jan 2005
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 18296
The RAI is designed for dry dusty conditions more than anything. It is also good as a precaution against dipping your air intake under the water. Especially if your wading through a narrow high banked lane / track and the chances of the bow wave breaking is higher.
It will keep most of the water out - even more so than the seemingly excellent and well thought out air intake design.
I paid £50 for mine but even at full price - its cheaper than a new engine
Buy it for peace of mind - but beware you will need to drill two holes in the wing and one in the A pillar to attach it.
29th Dec 2008 11:25 am
GLYNNE
Member Since: 06 Oct 2006
Location: KENT
Posts: 4654
So if you had the option, would you buy the snorkel which is less money and i suppose has the extra benefit of being water tight, or would you stick to the RAI, which IMHO does look better.
29th Dec 2008 11:29 am
DG Site Moderator
Member Since: 12 Dec 2005
Location: The Gaff
Posts: 50945
Ask yourself how often you want to get water above the recommended level i.e. over the bonnet and up to the windscreen. My guess would be not often Is a snorkel going to prevent water accessing other delicate parts ?21 year LR veteran > D2 GS 2003 > D3 S 2006 > D3 HSE 2009 > D4 HSE 2013 > D4 HSE 2015 > D5 HSE 2018 > DS HSE R-Dynamic P300e 2021
29th Dec 2008 11:33 am
simon
Member Since: 11 Jan 2005
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 18296
If I needed a real snorkel I'd buy a snorkel. As I don't do lots of over the bonnet up to the windscreen driving and I have not had all the electric's water proofed / protected...
The LR RAI does a good job of adding a far higher level of protection than the standard air intake. If I do submerge the side of the D3, I don't have palpitations anymore
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!!! so i will stick with a degree of caution and a store of new air filters!!
If you where going to buy a RAI would you get, the RAI or Snorkel.
Decisions, decisions
