Member Since: 30 Mar 2008
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 751
Despite regular application of penetrant for some days before, I couldn't get my rear ARB bush bolts to move. I ended up rounding the heads of three of the bolts.
I found a suggestion from forum member jg7 in another thread of loosening off the body/chassis bolts and lifting the body slightly to give extra room ( http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic115677.html ).
The extra 2cms allows a decent sized socket and bar to get onto the bolt heads. They are 13mm heads but having rounded the bolt heads, I used a good quality 1/2" 6 point socket which did the job. Having put the socket and bar onto the bolt, I lowered the body back down slightly to keep the socket well and truly on the bolt until I managed to get it moving. Had that not worked, I would have invested in a set of Irwin bolt remover sockets which gets great write-ups on Amazon.
Big thanks to jg7.
HM
20th Aug 2014 5:59 pm
DDDad
Member Since: 10 Jan 2015
Location: Angus
Posts: 1201
Robbie wrote:
er1c wrote:
Does anyone know the torque value for the ARB bush bracket 's (2) bolts? I haven't seen them mentioned anywhere.
From the manual
Quote:
Tighten the nuts to 115 Nm (85 lb.ft)
That's the front ARB nuts. The rear ARB bolts are 62 Nm (46 lbf ft) according to the Haynes manual.
To loosen the bolts, I used the old trick of putting a ring spanner squarely on the head, tensioning out the slack by hand and then trapping it tighter a few times with a rubber mallet. In theory this shocks the thread and breaks the corrosive bond. Then I used a ratchet and galv. pipe to slacken them, which was easy. Getting the corroded tip of the bolt through was another matter. It took 3 hours of working them in and out, lifting the bracket, and spraying WD40 onto the threads from above and below. Even then they were sooooo tight as they finally came out. Relief!!! When I do the front I'm trying GT85 instead.
BTW Can anyone tell me, if you back the bolts out too far with a ratchet, tight up against the 'ceiling', is it ever possible to get the ratchet completely stuck, unable to go forward or back? Is this just an irrational fear of mine? Went for a job as a human cannonball. Not the right calibre.
21st Apr 2015 11:18 am
Weedyapl
Member Since: 24 Sep 2015
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 76
Awesome write up fixed my knock. Thanks!
23rd Feb 2016 6:16 am
PeteJJ
Member Since: 24 Aug 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 49
Hi ridgeback_moor,
just used your excellent write-up to change the ARB bushes and after going back to normal ride height after having the car at off-road height and fuses out during the work I'm getting 'suspension will raise when system cooled' and 'suspension vehicle raising slowly' messages. Did this happen to you and does it clear? Cheers
11th Mar 2016 3:37 pm
Iceman08
Member Since: 22 Sep 2014
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2284
£51 for two genuine rear D bushes..........surely not?!
18th Apr 2016 12:25 pm
Bobbybulls
Member Since: 24 Apr 2014
Location: Essex
Posts: 63
Well had a go today and failed miserably! Had been giving the bolts a good dose of penetrating oil for a few days leading up to doing the work, but only got as far as trying the left hand side. The forward most bolt began to move and I began to think what is all the fuss about. But after a minute of working on the bolt I realised it had not moved! The head was not rounded off but feels like the thread has failed and just spinning. Decided to call it a day once I then had a go at the rear bolt and that instantly rounded off.
Moved onto front ARB's and doing both diff oil changes and was all good.
What is the thoughts for getting the Rear ARB bolts removed. The mechanic I use reckons he can drill out? Seen mention body off but surley that's not the case???
10th Jul 2016 6:50 pm
HughMartin
Member Since: 30 Mar 2008
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 751
I had the same problem and loosened off the body mounting bolts as per my post above to allow the body to be lifted by an inch or so. Made all the difference.
17th Jul 2016 11:43 am
kttlaweb
Member Since: 14 Oct 2017
Location: Derby
Posts: 3
Followed the guide... ARB bushes and links successfully replaced - Many Thanks
29th May 2018 10:49 pm
Poppy Ann
Member Since: 27 May 2019
Location: Mansfield
Posts: 19
Re: Rear ARB Anti Roll Bar Bushes - how to replace, with pics
ridgeback_moor wrote:
Spent a couple of hours changing the rear ARB bushes today, so took a few pictures for anyone who might be interested. I fitted genuine LR parts as the last pair have done 100k miles, so can't complain really. Did consider Polybush, but decided to stay with genuine parts.
Firstly, I put the vehicle into off road height and removed fuses 3 and 26 in the engine compartment to stop the air suspension from moving once on the axle stands. Then jacked up the back and supported with stands under the chassis...
Click image to enlarge
I think you need to have both sides off the ground at the same time to take any tension off the ARB.
With the wheels off it's easy to locate the anti roll bar bushes - in this picture of the rear nearside (UK) the ARB is just to the left of the orange body mount(bolts partly undone). The compressor housing is on the bottom left of this photo.
Click image to enlarge
Tools I used for the job include 13mm sockets (3/8 and 1/2" drive), ratchet spanner, breaker bar, and WD40. The bolts are quite tight, and reluctant to come out due to corrosion on the lower threads, so don't expect to get them out easily if your vehicles been round the block a few times, as mine has! Try not to let the socket or spanner slip off too many times (easier said than done!) as the bolt head is quite soft and can round easily.
Click image to enlarge
There isn't much clearance between the chassis and body in this area, so be aware that you can only use the socket for so long before it gets trapped by the bolt that it's removing. At that point you'll need to use the ring spanner, and probably an bit of pipe as an extension to get a bit more leverage.
Click image to enlarge
Evenually, after much swearing and spanner rash, you'll have the 4 bolts out and be able to lift the anti roll bar up. I wasn't sure if there would be any tension on it, but with both hubs level it's fine.
Click image to enlarge
To remove the old bush and bracket just slide it out along the ARB, and lever off with a screwdriver..
Click image to enlarge
Old and new bushes, next to the bracket..
Click image to enlarge
New rubber bush in place, held by bracket. It's quite a tight fit as the rubber is slightly bigger than the bracket, but with a bit of pursuasion you can get the bolts in and start tightening. I used new bolts as they were only a few pence each from Nick (aka The Large One), and saved battling with the corroded old ones again.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Tightened up on both sides, job done
Click image to enlarge
No more clanking from the back end on rough ground any more, and i'm sure the ride feels better but that's probably in the mind
Maybe worth coating the bolt threads with copper grease to help next time you have to do it.
16th Jun 2019 6:57 am
Poppy Ann
Member Since: 27 May 2019
Location: Mansfield
Posts: 19
DDDad wrote:
Robbie wrote:
er1c wrote:
Does anyone know the torque value for the ARB bush bracket 's (2) bolts? I haven't seen them mentioned anywhere.
From the manual
Quote:
Tighten the nuts to 115 Nm (85 lb.ft)
That's the front ARB nuts. The rear ARB bolts are 62 Nm (46 lbf ft) according to the Haynes manual.
To loosen the bolts, I used the old trick of putting a ring spanner squarely on the head, tensioning out the slack by hand and then trapping it tighter a few times with a rubber mallet. In theory this shocks the thread and breaks the corrosive bond. Then I used a ratchet and galv. pipe to slacken them, which was easy. Getting the corroded tip of the bolt through was another matter. It took 3 hours of working them in and out, lifting the bracket, and spraying WD40 onto the threads from above and below. Even then they were sooooo tight as they finally came out. Relief!!! When I do the front I'm trying GT85 instead.
BTW Can anyone tell me, if you back the bolts out too far with a ratchet, tight up against the 'ceiling', is it ever possible to get the ratchet completely stuck, unable to go forward or back? Is this just an irrational fear of mine?
Not irrational fear if you have one of the old style ratchet where you have to turn the ratchet over to reverse it but on modern ratchets they tend to reverse using a lever (that is as long as you can reach the lever.)
Re torque setting what we use to tell people tighten until it snaps then back off 1/2 a turn
16th Jun 2019 7:05 am
jig78
Member Since: 16 Aug 2019
Location: essex
Posts: 1
Hi Guys,
I think my front and rears ARB bushes are worn for RRS (2011). Please confirm if I need to take front and rear wheels off or I can remove bushes easily without? Are these instruction (above) any different for rrs 2011.
Thanks
Jig
16th Aug 2019 6:36 pm
mek
Member Since: 18 Mar 2015
Location: Zurich
Posts: 468
You should take the wheels off. Soak all bolts in penetrating fluid for days before you begin. Be careful not to over torque the bolts when you do them back up. Clearly there's no way to get a torque wrench on them.
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