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auAlan
Member Since: 27 Apr 2014
Location: NSW, Central Coast
Posts: 24
  
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| How to repair that broken radiator plastic overflow fitting. |
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2006 Land Rover Discovery 3 4.0 V6 Radiator Repair - April 2014
I purchased my 2006 Land Rover Discovery 3 with a broken plastic fitting on the radiator that goes to the expansion bottle. I was quoted AU$450.00 for the radiator or AU$750.00 fitted. When I got it home (I did not drive it) I had a good look at where the broken piece had come from and decided that I could probably repair it.
The 4mm hole that was in the radiator was very close to the edge so I had to “encourage†the drill bit away from that edge when I commenced drilling. I was initially going to drill & tap the hole ¼†BSP however because the hole in the radiator was only 4mm diameter I would only need to drill & tap 1/8†BSP. After the hole was tapped thread sealant was applied to the thread of the fitting prior to it being screwed into the radiator. I then applied some ‘Rapid Fix’ around the outside of the fitting.
After a couple of test drives the repair did develop a miniscule leak; more of a weep at the outside edge which I knew was a weak point.
The area was cleaned thoroughly with mentholated spirits. I then added some two part ‘Dynasteel’ epoxy putty which was then pressed into place around the fitting and left to set. The advantage the epoxy putty has over the ‘Rapid Fix’ is that it can be pressed into place unlike the ‘Rapid Fix’ that is unable to flow uphill! I think that if the radiator was out of the vehicle and laying horizontal, the 'Rapid Fix' alone MAY create a sufficient seal.
After more test drives the new repair still had a miniscule leak so I decided to chip away the epoxy putty and ‘Rapid Fix’ and start again but using only the epoxy putty; I still used thread sealant on the fitting.
Since using only the epoxy putty I have travelled over 2,000 K’s and there hasn’t been any sign of a leak whatsoever. The repair is by far stronger than the original fitting. 
TIP; before the fitting snaps on your radiator it is probably advisable to carefully press some epoxy putty around the base of the existing plastic fitting for added strength.
Required;
1/8†BSPP tap
11/32†drill bit (start with smaller drill bits and drill in stages)
Fittings; see photos for details
Thread Sealant & mentholated spirits for clean up
Two part epoxy putty
Radiator coolant to top up with
Around 2 hours – don’t rush the job.
If you want to see the twelve photos you will need to go to my new facebook page 'Abetta Handyman Service'.
Log into your facebook account and then find my page, then go to photos. To see the notes above continue onto albums/Land Rover Discovery 3 Radiator Repair.
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 4th Aug 2014 6:52 am |
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Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
  
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I have the same issue and I am away from my house and need to get her back home to replace the radiator. I ordered a replacement, so just have to drive 2 hours on this repair.
I tried to epoxy the little neck together and it did last for a couple months. I forgot about it as I changed jobs and locations and low and behold it bit me in the butt.
My question is:
To get it to a somewhat workable solution I had to drive the truck about 2 miles back to my job trailer. the truck did overheat and the temp gauge pegged about 1 mile in. I've looked at the oil and also have not seen other leaks of anti freeze so I am assuming that the little overheated drive didn't do any significant damage to the engine.
I guess i'm going to do this fix so to at least get here back to my home garage for the install.
Thanks for the list of tools. I also bought a new water pump, hoses and thermostat just because I'll have it open when I replace the radiator anyway.
Off to the store I go... 2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
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| 23rd Nov 2020 3:03 pm |
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Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1782
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I have tried various fixes for that problem as I snapped mine off  End result was to order a replacement radiator from Super Cheap as they where the best price in town. If you have a trade card you get a further 10% off.
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| 24th Nov 2020 9:22 am |
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Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
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So I took all the upper intake and air box off. Ran to the store and got the 1/8" NPT x 3/8" Barb fitting, a 21/64 drill bit, 1/8" NPT tap. I had a small bit of the tube remaining just enough to make me think it would hold the hose. It didn't so I drilled as suggested with increasing sized bits. This left me a small fraction of the nipple left. When I went to trim it off, is crumbled and broke off. SO I did the thread tap and placed the nipple in which some Permatex epoxy for a thread sealer.
Let sit for 24 hours and put in coolant and put back hoses and intakes. I had to go buy additional coolant as I thought I would be able to fill it with a gallon and a half I had in the garage.
Pulled off the lower rad hose from Thermostat housing and poured it in there. Started it up, bleed the system and it is now running good. I will be road testing for the next couple days before the 1.5 hour ride home for Thanksgiving.
I still am going to go ahead and flush the system with the old radiator, then put in the new radiator and water pump and fill with new fluid. I think the water pump is fine but while I have everything else out I might as well replace that for future consideration.
Thanks for the post, It helped on all the sizes needed to do it right. 2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
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| 24th Nov 2020 4:33 pm |
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seacutter
Member Since: 07 Oct 2021
Location: Lauderdale
Posts: 17
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Thanks for this post Alan. I leant on this and snapped it off when doing the timing belt/oil pump and tapping a thread didn't even cross my mind. Cheers.
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| 15th Aug 2023 6:00 am |
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