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J.Prezes
Member Since: 10 May 2015
Location: usually at my Indy's shop
Posts: 62
  
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Sorry for taking so long, but in my gallery you will find the WSM for Ford Powerstroke 3.0 TDV6 
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 8th Feb 2022 11:10 am |
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Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 348
 
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J. Prezes,
Superb! Thanks.
Adrian Series one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
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| 8th Feb 2022 8:30 pm |
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Mastertech
Member Since: 13 Apr 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 126
  
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I would advise using a engine oil that has a higher HTHS than the Ford M2C-913 that is spec’d. This oils HTHS is low at 2.9 for a 5w30. VW 504/507 oil has a HTHS of 3.5. You could also look at VW 511 as the approved oils all have a HTHS of 3.8 this is a 0w40 typically. If you ran one of these VW oils you could change every 9-10,000 miles without issue. This will give you the higher film strength it looking at those big end pics it looks like is needed.
Any oil with a HTHS of under 3.5 is being compromised for fuel economy. The Ford oil is closer in weight to a 0w20 that a proper 5w30 (0w20 typically 2.6 HTHS) and it has a poor additive pack when compared to say VW 508/509.
In regards to the Volvo engine with thicker oil, after 200 hours you will have soot loading in the oil and the oil filter medium that will create a restriction at the filter that the engine systems were picking up.
The VW 511 oil is used in engines making over 800 bhp with a particulate filter fitted.
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| 9th Sep 2022 6:40 pm |
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Wisepaul
Member Since: 23 Oct 2022
Location: Johannesburg
Posts: 2
 
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Hi Adrian.
Ive been following your TDV6 engine rebuild with keen interest as am in the process of rebuilding mine at the moment; i love the part where you ordered the F150 engine bearings; i like to go that route aswell because they come with the bearing notch which should help deal with Main bearings spinning problem on the D3, leading to broken cranks among other. How did it go with your project?
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| 23rd Oct 2022 4:47 pm |
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Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 348
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Wise Paul,
I am still mid project!!! The car is still in bits on the drive as I have been having some health issues. 2021 from March was a total write off. Managed back to work Jan 2022, but spend until about November '22 in survival mode trying to work full time & recovering at the weekends. Now dealing with a backlog of 2 years of normal life.....
Bought some piston rings this week though, so 'some' progress. Series one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
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| 20th Jan 2023 10:53 pm |
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LR4_NO
Member Since: 26 Feb 2023
Location: Buskerud
Posts: 20
 
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Hi Adrian.
Hope you get better soon.
Thanks for a fantastic writeup.
I'm in the progress to do a similar rebuild job after I found metal shavings in my 2013 SDV6 engine.
Engine runs great but I don't want to blow it up and decided to "park" the Disco4 until this is fixed.
I wondered if your impressive DIY body off system left any demages on the body/sills?
Would you attempt to do something like this in a medium small garage?
It would be to only lift the body as high as needed to be able to roll the chassis forward for easier engine access and then set the body back on the frame.
Ragards
Sebastian
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| 3rd Mar 2023 7:52 pm |
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Mastertech
Member Since: 13 Apr 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 126
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If you only have a small/ medium garage then you may be better off tacking off the front grill, lights, bumper, radiator pack out to then lift the engine out of the front. You could also remove the cylinder heads first if you wanted to reduce the size of the engine for easier handling. Body off is the easiest/ fastest option for a fully equipped workshop but it’s not the only way to do it.
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| 3rd Mar 2023 9:37 pm |
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LR4_NO
Member Since: 26 Feb 2023
Location: Buskerud
Posts: 20
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Hi Mastertech
Thanks for the quick reply. 
Then I will go the body on removal route.
One more thing I was wondering:
is it necessary to disconnect the AC-hoses forcing you to empty the system before you start?
PS: perfect timing, couldn't happen at a better time in the year 
Still Winter her but today its sunny and at least 4 degrees 
Ragards
Sebastian
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| 4th Mar 2023 10:45 am |
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Mastertech
Member Since: 13 Apr 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 126
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Yes you will need to have the refrigerant removed as you will need to remove the condenser as part of the radiator pack.
If you start your own thread we can help you with anything that comes up.
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| 4th Mar 2023 11:58 am |
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Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 348
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LR4_NO wrote:Hi Mastertech
Thanks for the quick reply.
Then I will go the body on removal route.
One more thing I was wondering:
is it necessary to disconnect the AC-hoses forcing you to empty the system before you start?
PS: perfect timing, couldn't happen at a better time in the year
Still Winter her but today its sunny and at least 4 degrees
Ragards
Sebastian
My lift system did not damage the sills - its no different too using a 2 post lift to remove the body.
Re the AC - yes you need it de gassed Series one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
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| 4th Mar 2023 11:37 pm |
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LR4_NO
Member Since: 26 Feb 2023
Location: Buskerud
Posts: 20
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Hi Adrian and Mastertech
Thanks for the reply and the suggestion to start a new thread, I will do that.
Will still follow this one
Sebastian
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| 5th Mar 2023 6:26 pm |
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