I've posted a couple of times recently about my sidesteps being rusty and, having got round to replacing them, I'd suggest everybody goes and has a look at theirs if they're older than a couple of years !
The only reason I started looking at mine was that if it had been raining, they were leaving rust marks on the drive a few weeks ago. Nothing before that to hint at how bad they were.
Then when one of my lads got in the car about 3 weeks ago, he says the nearside one creaked a bit ... but it didn't happen again, so it didn't seem that bad.
However, I’d decided it was sensible to replace them purely to stop the rust marks on the drive.
Bit of a faff with trying to get some off a friend of a friend … gave up in the end. Forum member RDR offered to sell me a set of used but good condition steps, but logistics made it easier to just buy new from eBay (seller is in Bolton, so local to me). Turned up less than 24hrs after ordering … well packaged and look the part. Instructions were a bit poor … looks like bad photocopy of a bad photocopy, but not essential as I’m just doing like for like replacement.
All fittings supplied … nuts and bolts vacuum packed on a card, so easy to see what’s what.
Due to expectation of some rust, covered the floor with a tarpaulin sheet, drove onto it and put suspension into extended mode by lowering it onto a block of wood. Nice height for doing this job.
Then the fun started. A quick look at step by driver’s door … you can see the cover has lifted a bit.
Look under it and …
It really didn’t look that bad a few weeks ago, so I’m guessing that once you get a certain level of rustiness, it just goes exponentially worse by the day.
A couple of weeks ago, I’d sprayed loads of WD40 on the nuts … waste of time IMHO. Some of the nuts had rusted away to the point no socket/spanner/mole-grips were ever going to turn them.
Best outcome of trying to remove any of them was hammer a deep 10mm socket onto the nut, turn with ratchet and … snap it off.
I then had to hammer the remains of the nut/bolt out of the socket.
The ones that didn’t snap were a total PITA. Due to the amount of rust, I couldn’t see where the heads for the bolts where on some.
I took the covers off and knocked all the loose rust off with a hammer.
The bits that didn’t crumble were lethally sharp and it was a bit of a battle getting them off without scratching the car or slicing my hands open.
The aluminium edging surprised me … I was expecting it to be much thinner and in a mess, but it was probably all that was keeping some of the rusted bits in the right place.
Here’s something you should all be checking … this is the nearside door area. You can see the cover of the steps has lifted enough to be interfering with the bottom of the door.
And on the offside … it looks like it’s possibly been the cause of the door lower trim being detached from the door ? Realise it might have been something else was in the way when the door was closed, but certainly worth checking.
Due to not being able to see the heads of the bolts in the rusty mess, it was easier to drill into the side of the bolt than down into the head. Didn’t fancy using an angle grinder as there was the chance of lumps of rust becoming detached and being launched who-knows-where.
The rust has clearly got a grip on the brackets and having seen the recent posts about this b erring the sills, I know I’m going to have to replace the brackets and hopefully just waxoil the sills behind the covers BUT I was limited on time and it looked like the weather was going to close in. So hammered off the loose rust and liberally sprayed WD40 on the brackets.
When it came to fitting the new steps , I found the innermost bolts were very difficult to get into the holes … and it highlighted a reason these steps are cheaper than some of the others out there.
The bolts are NOT welded in place. Rather, they sit in a hex-shaped hole in the topmost metal sheet and are taped in place whilst the top (plastic) cover is fitted. I don’t see it as a problem once everything is fitted but on the middle offside bracket, the effort of trying to get the bolt in the hole lifted the plastic cover.
Solution was to widen/lengthen the slot in the bracket … and if you look at this picture of the rearmost nearside bracket,
you can see the inner slot (ringed in red )has been widened (the “yellow” outer slot was damaged by drilling the bolt out). So I’m wondering if the tops have already been replaced once ? or maybe someone taking a pragmatic approach to fitting the steps in the first place. There isn’t anything I can find to tell if these were genuine or aftermarket steps.
One remaining nasty surprise ... not related to the steps ...
And all looking good.
Just need to somewhere under cover to do the "part 2" of taking them off again and swapping the brackets/cleaning and checking sills etc.
..
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
6th Oct 2019 9:56 am
sutty2006
Member Since: 02 Jun 2016
Location: stoke on trent
Posts: 135
I’d be getting rid of those bolts and using stainless steel replacements.
I bought mine second hand off a guy on here, took them home and cleaned them up. I applied hammerite to them and loads of copper grease to the bolts. 12 months later I took them off and they were rusty again. I’d recommend a dose of waxoil before even hitting the road. Keep that moisture at bay, only problem is the wet probably comes in from the top edge just as bad.
agree ... it will be stainless parts where possible, waterproof layers between metals and oils/treatments in all gaps and orifices at part 2.
6th Oct 2019 8:22 pm
Huge Halford
Member Since: 30 May 2013
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 274
Great write up...
Looking forward to Part 2 Mods:-
Beanie Grill,Side Steps,Colour-coded wheel arches, Door handles and Bumpers,Rear Bumper Exhaust Trim,Remote Start FBH,2014 D4 rear lights,Reversing camera GVIF enabled,D4 Bluetooth Module, Puddle lighted wing mirrors
Thank you for the detailed picture.
it helps a lot
23rd Jul 2020 2:29 pm
Scott #55
Member Since: 15 Apr 2015
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 1664
Mine are in a similar condition. I’ll be tackling this soon. I’m expecting similar issues to those you’ve experienced2014 - D4 2010 HSE Nara Bronze
2012 - FL2 2009 GS Stornoway Grey
2001 - VW Passat Estate Inky Blue
1999 - Ford Mondeo Light Blue
1998 - Rover 25 Red
Lockdown has meant SWMBO is permanently around and isn't happy (major understatement) when I do any jobs that spoil her view ... like a Disco on the drive blocking view out of front room.
2nd Aug 2020 3:38 pm
RDR
Member Since: 24 Mar 2013
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 2260
I have a set in the garage off my D4 it was an MY16 and had done <50k miles i had to use a multiple and angle grinder to get them off! i was shocked at the rust and the bolts spinning and snapping. Keep meaning to get them cleaned up and posted on here.MY06 S - Gone but not forgotten
MY12 HSE - Gone
MY16 HSE Luxury - Sold
MY20 D5 HSE - Sold
Current RR L460 PHEV
2nd Aug 2020 3:57 pm
Daingerman
Member Since: 21 Aug 2020
Location: Surrey
Posts: 7
I just bought the same replacement steps from ebay They do look identical but about 30% of the LR OEM cost. No fitting instructions so your post is great thanks.
I was worried about the loose bolts in the new steps as I could not see how they would not just spin when trying to tighten the nuts. I guess you have to have someone push down on the step while you are tightening to keep the heads in the hex sockets.
Why are the bolt heads not welded? Is it to allow some movement of the bolt when fitting into the brackets?
I now assume LR side steps are consumables to be replaced every 3 years?
Nice write up exposing the pitfalls of them blimmin side steps
I'm resisting the urge to fit steps to the D4 because of the corrosion risk, but i do miss them both to get in & out but also for the aesthetics.
Would stainless tubular sliders be a better option to reduce the corrosion risk or are they all as bad as each
other?
Cheers n Gone NickMY16 D4 Landmark SDV6 (The Ice Maiden)
Uncle Ray's spare wheel protector
MY08 D3 HSE Stornoway (Miss Moneypit) The money tree withered......
21st Aug 2020 8:43 pm
Daingerman
Member Since: 21 Aug 2020
Location: Surrey
Posts: 7
Stainless steel has got to be more resistant to rust than the standard thinly painted mild steel steps. The steel is paper thin and must be sourced from recycled Lancia Betas from the 70's!
In my view, the steps are more functional for short or less able people to get in and out as the plastic decking is not slippery. The stainless bars look more cosmetic.
I am going to coat the underside of new ones in a layer of underseal to see if they survive longer but if water gets under the plastic deck then they will just rust from the top. As mentioned in the original post you have to remove them using an angle grinder as the bolts will be seized and will shear off when you try to remove them.
21st Aug 2020 9:31 pm
Daingerman
Member Since: 21 Aug 2020
Location: Surrey
Posts: 7
How do you stop the bolts from spinning when fitting steps
Hi Hardware
How did you stop the bolts in the new steps from spinning when you fitted the nuts? Did you have to have someone push down on the top of the plastic step above the bolt head to make sure it was sat in the hex slot? Thx
Once I'd elongated the slots, the hex heads didn't rise above the hex holes so they didn't spin and could be tightened normally..
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
After two years my side steps were a mess, spend half a day cleaning up re painting re rustproofing new bolts loads of copper grease but I know in another few years they will be as bad but on the plus side when I park in ridiculously narrow parking spots I put the car in off road height I know the people who park next to me can’t damage my doors as there doors hit the steps win win for me 😂Range Rover Westminster 4.4 TDV8 what a car
Discovery 3 HSE 2006 gone but never forgotten
Member of the 234,567 mile club😎
21st Aug 2020 11:57 pm
SPT
Member Since: 21 Mar 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 26
Furnitureman - Never thought of this before 🤣 I like your thinking though
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... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
