Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
Yep. I’ve got an IID tool so hopefully I’ll have no issues with the software. I pulled the rear valve block out to see if it needed cleaning and it was fine so I’ve not bothered looking at the front one. Hopefully my logic is good.
1st Dec 2020 6:04 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4626
By the way, I meant to say the pipe work is different between AMK & Hitachi so you will need the conversion kit too if you haven't already ordered it.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
1st Dec 2020 6:09 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
Ordered the conversion kit thanks.
1st Dec 2020 6:14 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
Amk now fitted and suspension calibrated. Also flashed the ecu with the AMK software on the IID tool. It’s all reset. However, now the alternator has gone. Probably just a coincidence, or is this something that can happen after an ecu flash?
3rd Dec 2020 7:02 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2459
I have heard of this happening before, Try a hard reset.*
3rd Dec 2020 7:38 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
Interesting. Thanks. I’lll try that
3rd Dec 2020 7:40 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
Hard reset didn’t work. Ordered new alternator. After the AMK suspension ecu flash had completed every fault light and message came up on the dash and the CD player went through some sort of tray moving cycle. I suspect this is when the alternator went, unless anyone on here knows that after an ecu flash that happens as standard.
4th Dec 2020 11:28 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4626
Yeah the modules will cycle through so that's a normal response. Why do you say the alternator is goosed? Is the alt light constantly on? If so there should be a fault code to support that!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
4th Dec 2020 11:42 am
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
I got the P0625 fault and it won’t clear. Also the actual voltage is 11.2
v
4th Dec 2020 11:53 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4626
Oh well that's it so its had it given that voltage. A coincidence I supppse you're gonna be a busy lad. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
4th Dec 2020 1:35 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
Sorted. Did the aux belt and tensioner whilst I was in there. Rattle when cold no longer there. Not sure if that is the new tensioner or the new alternator. Neither of the old ones feel rough but I suppose under load they would sound different. Thanks for all your advice everyone.
5th Dec 2020 6:25 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4626
Sweet yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
5th Dec 2020 6:28 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
The key fob that I was using when doing this suspension ecu flash now doesn’t unlock or lock the car. It starts it fine. Just doesn’t lock or unlock. New battery fitted to key fob. Still won’t lock or unlock it but can still start it. Even reprogrammed it using the IID tool and still doesn’t fix it. The spare key fob works fine. Wondering if the key fob got damaged in some way during the re flash and alternator dying phase?
11th Dec 2020 5:32 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4626
Hmmm, seems odd but perhaps another coincidence. It uses a rechargeable battery (VL2330) and is charged when the key is in the ign.
Does the third button do anything? It can be programmed to open the tailgate or flash the "follow me home" lights etc.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
11th Dec 2020 5:43 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
Third button not working either. It was programmed to operate the remote fbh. Manged to get the lock unlock function to work once before fitting a new rechargeable battery. Odd how the other fob works perfectly and from a distance. It does have a b1a 56 antenna circuit fault but it’s always had that
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