Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
Suspension silica beeds
Opened up the compressor to check the silica needs as I’m getting the gallery not venting fault code. Found the exhaust valve party contaminated and that the beads in the compressor itself were dry. However at the pump end of the silica bead barely the filter was hard , as though it was blocked, and also saw some evidence of damp silica dust around the seal (must have escaped from the the filter housing). My question to people on here with more experience than me is this low level of bead breakdown normal or is it likely to be the cause of the suspension fault? Pics below. One pic is of the potentially blocked filter with some beads stuck to it, one pic is a cup of the dry beads and the third pic is the exhaust valve. Is it also supposed to be red as I always thought the beads where white? It’s a Hitachi unit and it’s about a year old.
30th Nov 2020 5:47 pm
Metal_Detective
Member Since: 10 Nov 2018
Location: Earra-Ghàidheal
Posts: 50
You'll soon know if the filter is blocked by fishing it out and trying to blow through it. Blow don't suck 2016 D4 SDV6 Landmark
2006 D3 TDV6 manual (deid)
2003 D2 TD5 manual on B100 (sold)
1998 300TDi manual (sold)
1994 300TDi manual (sold)
1972 Range Rover manual, Perkins engine (sold)
1966 S IIA truck cab, broke in half (sold as a kit)
30th Nov 2020 6:39 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
The filter was partially blocked, but only around the air intake hole. Only a very small amount of the silicate was degraded. Do you know if that is normal after a year of purely road use. Low mileage
30th Nov 2020 6:43 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
So. I may have answered my own question. Here are some pics of the beads in last years failed compressor. Same symptom. Same type of blockage at same
Location. This one was a Dunlop with white beads.
30th Nov 2020 7:12 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4651
The beads breakdown over time or when saturated by moisture. The dust particles can then get past the filters and cause havoc within the system and corner valves. Ultimately the filters will clog up too, so best to strip it down clean thoroughly and lube with silicon spray. Replace filters and desiccant and it should roll on without problems.
Service it every 3/4 years especially is damp high humidity climates. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
30th Nov 2020 7:22 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
Thanks. So , if it’s clogged a filter then the front and rear valves will need cleaning out?
30th Nov 2020 7:24 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4651
You might be lucky
Try it and see how it goes, new valve block seals are available which you can do later if needs be yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
30th Nov 2020 8:40 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated. Now to work out how it’s got so damp so quickly. Twice. I’ll have a look at the intake filter tomorrow
30th Nov 2020 8:42 pm
pagoda
Member Since: 13 Aug 2009
Location: Not London Anymore (or the US for that matter)
Posts: 1923
I think there are kits you can buy that include new beads and the front and back filters (look like felt pads) and O-rings as in your photo. One of the kits I've seen for sale had orange beads. Or you can buy a complete air drier also - I think I've seen those for sale although have never replaced. I had to rebuild the valve block on my LR3 this year which solved my car-sinking problem.PAGODA
30th Nov 2020 9:10 pm
pagoda
Member Since: 13 Aug 2009
Location: Not London Anymore (or the US for that matter)
Posts: 1923
PROFSR G wrote:
The beads breakdown over time or when saturated by moisture. The dust particles can then get past the filters and cause havoc within the system and corner valves. Ultimately the filters will clog up too, so best to strip it down clean thoroughly and lube with silicon spray. Replace filters and desiccant and it should roll on without problems.
Service it every 3/4 years especially is damp high humidity climates.
Profsr G: is there a kit you use? I have a 2016 but do live in a very humid climate and am thinking I should perform the preventative maint task. Interested to know if there's a link or kit you've seen that would suffice. Thank you.PAGODA
30th Nov 2020 9:23 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4651
No harm to check it and give it a wash in warm soapy water but it's very unlikely to be the source of excessive moisture in the system.
You could have a leaky seal somewhere on the compressor, or the large "O" ring cyl head seal may be leaking. If this seal or the aluminium is showing signs corrosion (white powder) smear a thin coat of silicon sealer on the rubber "O" ring, but be careful not to scrape too much at the aluminium or you'll make things worse. There is a protective coating on the aluminium which must not be removed!
The other thing which might cause water ingress is the air supply silencer. This can sometimes become holed due to rust, allowing road spray to enter. It's located behind the n/s/r suspension turret just behind the EPB module. It's not easy to gain access to inspect thoroughly without removing it, but focus on the compressor first and see if your repairs here are successful. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
Last edited by PROFSR G on 30th Nov 2020 9:40 pm. Edited 1 time in total
30th Nov 2020 9:35 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4651
pagoda wrote:
PROFSR G wrote:
The beads breakdown over time or when saturated by moisture. The dust particles can then get past the filters and cause havoc within the system and corner valves. Ultimately the filters will clog up too, so best to strip it down clean thoroughly and lube with silicon spray. Replace filters and desiccant and it should roll on without problems.
Service it every 3/4 years especially is damp high humidity climates.
Profsr G: is there a kit you use? I have a 2016 but do live in a very humid climate and am thinking I should perform the preventative maint task. Interested to know if there's a link or kit you've seen that would suffice. Thank you.
Member Since: 13 Aug 2009
Location: Not London Anymore (or the US for that matter)
Posts: 1923
Thank you, sir.PAGODA
30th Nov 2020 10:12 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
I’ve found corrosion around the inlet port on the compressor which may have been the cause of damp air getting in. I tried replacing the corroded hitachi inlet port with the inlet port from the Dunlop but failed to do that as they different thread sizes. So that’s my attempt to build one good compressor from two old compressors finished. Can’t be done. I also found that the Hitachi had loosened its own long bolts clamping the piston housing together. This could also have been alllowing damp air in. The Dunlop appears to have a better filter than the hitachi as it has a rubber section sandwiched between two metal grills. Pic below of the corroded inlet port from the Hitachi, the better filter from the Dunlop and the four loose bolts on the Hitachi. I’ve now
Ordered an AMK from advanced factors.
1st Dec 2020 3:01 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4651
Ah OK I thought yours was an AMK to begin with as it generally uses those small brown beads, and the Hitachi usually the larger glass type. In any case I'd agree it's only scrap now unless someone has a used unwanted one lying around.
The AMK is a better made compressor but more complicated in its design and would be my choice too. You will need to update the software with IID, but the AMK will still run on the Hitachi software if you don't have the tool. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
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