Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
Plse don’t throw a hammer at me but may i ask something plse
When new shells are fitted into the block underneath the crank , to prevent any risk of them spinning again can they be glued on the back face only with something like an aruldite , etc or other means of them being fixed
plse forgive me for asking Such a daft question and my ignorance , just curious
Stuart not a daft question at all, Its like me asking you about plumbing and heating, each to there own. Hope your well and the back is getting better.
Flack
15th Apr 2020 7:44 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13613
Many thks flack and understand where ur coming from , plus always wondered ref the design of the
TDV6 with the oil filter being upside down and away from the oil pump so on starting has a few seconds to then get up to the oil filter then through the oil ways
Yeh i know , need to get out more , plus can’t believe it was 4 x years ago u done all my belts
Thks mate , New meds are helping that’s for sure , feel like the tin man with all my joints hurting , but slowly getting there and thk u for asking and hope ur keeping safe and well
have u fitted any of the new 19.5 oil pump covers plse
Also got an oil pressure monitor That I wish to fit later , think I’ve got everything , did extend the wiring so will now reach from the cabin to the pressure sensor
Thks again
15th Apr 2020 8:20 pm
Jonmoore1970
Member Since: 19 Apr 2020
Location: Wokingham
Posts: 125
I’ve read so many times that the starter is a nightmare to remove. I don’t know about autos but mine is a manual and it’s no trouble at all....I can’t see why an auto would be any different.
Take the wheel off, just for easier access.
Remove one bolt on the fuel cooler and move it over.
Remove 4 8mm bolts for a bracket (that seems to do nothing)
Remove 3 bolts that hold the starter Then simply move it out of the way to gain access to the flywheel hole.
No need to undo the power leads at all, just move the thing to the side.
If it takes you longer than 20mins I’d say that you’re doing something wrong.
4th May 2020 4:55 am
shravanjk86
Member Since: 20 Jun 2019
Location: Düsseldorf
Posts: 51
Telling how old your Belts and Tensioners are
I've had a search of the forum and haven't found anything about this as yet.
So here goes :
How to tell the age of your belt : There's an 8 digit number on the belt , assuming you've used Dayco
Whilst checking mine it read 062233194 to 062233199
06 :: Stands for the year, so in this case 2006 ; When my TDv6 was manufactured
22 :: Week 22 of the year i.e. May 29th to June 4th 2006
3 :: Denoting the day of the week produced ; I reckon wednesday
194 to 199 :: The running number of the belt from which this one was sliced to width.
I believe they go up to a max of 200, so mine is almost at the end of last shift.
I believe it's best to get some from the middle i.e 100ish ; and since my factory also runs a similar process of cutting to width from a roll , i can attest that edges are typically to be thrown away as they're usually not the best in quality.
How to tell the age of your Tensioner : There's a six digit number stamped onto the tensioner
As above mine read 040706 09 ; i.e. mmDDyy xx
04 :: Stands for the date
07 :: Stands for the month i.e June
06 :: Stands for the year 2006
09 :: No idea
As you can see the tensioner has been pushed back and is far away from the notch, indicating wear.
Wear from a combination of Tensioner pivot bush/Spring tension/ Belt itself.
Member Since: 18 Jun 2017
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 599
Read thru all 23 pages and would just like clarification on a few things -
Is there more than one flywheel locking hole ?
If the cams and crank are rotated independently, is it possible for them to be 180 degrees out when you fit the locking pins, or will 1 full rotation of the crank bring you back to TDC and then locking the cams will be in the correct orientation ?
28th Aug 2020 6:52 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10361
ppl do seam to mistake a hole for a locking hole in some examples.
You don't want to be rotating cams and crank without the belt on, as pistons and values will be banging each other. Get it to TDC and locking pins in, before removing the belt
28th Aug 2020 8:28 am
loanrangie
Member Since: 18 Jun 2017
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 599
Ideally yes but not what i asked.
28th Aug 2020 8:45 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20727
You can't rotate the crank with the belts off, the pistons will hit the valves
If the cams are 180 degrees out,the timing holes wont align, same with crankMy D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10361
Have you got yourself in a mess then ?
I know on a 4 cylinder you can move the crank 90 degs away from TDC
And then all the pistons are away from valves.
Maybe something similar is possible on the V6
28th Aug 2020 1:55 pm
loanrangie
Member Since: 18 Jun 2017
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 599
Disco_Mikey wrote:
You can't rotate the crank with the belts off, the pistons will hit the valves
If the cams are 180 degrees out,the timing holes wont align, same with crank
You can if you incrementally rotate the cams at the same time, belt is off because tensioner mount on pump broke off (original belt and pump) but i was stationary and at idle when it broke so just trying to line it up and see if i can mock it back up then rotate and see where i'm at.
Will remove the valve covers and check for top end damage.
So is the timing hole just a clean hole or does it have a raised piece like i saw earlier in this tread, i currently have the locking pin in the flywheel and cams pins in.
28th Aug 2020 3:00 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20727
OK, you normally WOULDN'T rotate the cams and crank individually
There are many balance holes drilled into the flywheel, which the timing tool will fit into
Member Since: 18 Jun 2017
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 599
Rotated the crank 360 degrees and only 1 hole lines up with the locking tool, pump undone but the bloody alternator bracket is in the way. 2 bolts on the front and 2 on the side but can only get to 1, the other is blocked by the EGR i think. Marked it so i'd know when i came back to it.
Removed the alternator then access to the other bolt was easy after removing that little heat shield, pump is off and on the bench in disgrace.
Cam covers dont look like fun to remove wil all the crap in the way plus having remove the injectors.
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