This issue has been a real pain in my ss for months so I decided to get rid of it.
After the ritual disclaimer (just in case you break something) here’s the “how toâ€.
Tools needed (I’m afraid for you guys on the other side of the pond, that’s only metric stuff ):
- a drill with a 4,5 or 5mm drill bit (check it before using)
- 10 M5x12 bolts with kep nuts
- 20 cm 5mm O-ring rope (5mm cross section diameter)
- Cutter
- torx allen spanner
- socket wrench with appropriate sockets
- various fixed wrenches
The job is no suitable for sensitive people as it is necessary to drill the seat base to remove the old aluminum rivets which hold the mechanism in place and the brass ones keeping the mechanism closed.
Be prepared, there’s plenty of torx bolts. I hate torx.
Watch your hands and particularly your fingers because there’s plenty of sharp edges.
First of all remove the seat cushion undoing the 4 torx bolts holding it at the seat base.
You’ll reach two of these bolts from the rear seats and two from the front of the driver seat.
After that I trashed the 4 torx (that are a real pain to undo) and replaced them with 4 M8 bolts with hex head
Click image to enlarge
Pull and remove the wheel of the recline mechanism (don’t know how to say)
Click image to enlarge
Remove the plastic handle of the hight adjusting mechanism by undoing the torx bolt shown in the picture.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Remove the plastic carter that covers the seat side by undoing both self tapping torx.
You’ll reach one of these bolts from the rear seats and one from the front of the driver seat.
Click image to enlarge
Now you should be able to see the hight adjusting mechanism.
Click image to enlarge
Drill the aluminum rivets and remove the hight adjusting mechanism.
Remove the metallic lever undoing both burnished torx bolts. Make a note of the spring position. The reinstall is intuitive.
Click image to enlarge
Drill the 3 brass rivets to be able to open the mechanism.
Pay attention not to exceed in pressing otherwise you’ll make them turn until they melt the plastic by friction.
Gently open the mechanism paying attention at falling objects and small parts. This shouldn’t occur but open it on the table.
As you can see from the picture the mechanism is made of a central “star†located in a circular housing with 3 needles on each tip (it’s quite similar to a needle bearing).
The two external are metal needles while the central one is a piece of transparent elastomer which should keep the two metallic apart from each other and wedged between the tip of the star and his housing so to prevent it from turnig.
This central needle (or roll) has a cross section of 4mm.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
The goal is to replace the central elastomeric needle with a greater one.
I bought two different O-ring ropes (in section). The first is 4,5mm and the second one 5mm. I solved the issue with the 5mm one so i didn’t test the 4,5mm one.
Click image to enlarge
Replace each central elastomeric needle with a new one obtained by cutting the 5mm O-Ring rope.
Reassemble all going backwards.
When closing the mechanism keep in mind that the bolts heads must be located in the plastic recesses.
Don’t tight the bolts too much or you’ll break the plastic housing.
I left the “doubles†all night long, but if you prefer you could sleep in the car
enjoy
ciao
Filippo
Last edited by filo on 5th Oct 2010 10:14 am. Edited 1 time in total
4th Oct 2010 4:48 pm
Peternc
Member Since: 08 Mar 2010
Location: Sussex
Posts: 41
I'm very glad that the dealer replaced my seat mechanism without question!
4th Oct 2010 5:24 pm
zebadee
Member Since: 15 Feb 2006
Location: The Magic Roundabout
Posts: 1392
A truly excellent write up filo
Thank you for taking the time to document & post all the steps involved.
I've saved it as a PDF for future reference.
4th Oct 2010 7:21 pm
Wickham
Member Since: 12 Sep 2010
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1
Outstanding job
Great instructions Sir- thank you.
11th Oct 2010 2:43 am
tanters
Member Since: 24 Oct 2007
Location: Oireland
Posts: 4284
You've the patients of a Saint Filo Thanks very much A happy childhood ... is the worst possible preparation for life.
11th Oct 2010 10:52 am
Donald_FR
Member Since: 03 Dec 2017
Location: Chalo St Mars
Posts: 11
Managed to do the Filo repair with seat base in situ... couldn't get those hex bolts to move for the seat base, so moved the seat itself about 30°, and drilled away to get the rivets off. Very fiddly getting all the bolts back in but otherwise went well, and I've got huge hands, so it can be done.
Many thanks to Filo - with 5mm section o ring elements in place of the old (silicone?) smaller diameter segments, the seat height is now stable... Am now looking after all my scratches and scars on my fingers...
Hey Donald
Glad you got it done
Remember also to find a way to lock the up and down lever otherwise you'll lower the seat with your each time you get off the car.
F.
4th Feb 2018 9:18 pm
Donald_FR
Member Since: 03 Dec 2017
Location: Chalo St Mars
Posts: 11
Hey Filo thanks for the reply on a very quiet thread - I suppose everybody else has done the mod already
I'll keep an eye out for my big ass hitting the seat height lever... and may end up putting in a blocking bit of black painted wood or similar, but for the moment it's all good!
Now for the integrated GPS and rear view camera mod (all bits on the way) - my 2005 SE needs a bit more sprucing...
Great write up as usual Filo, thank you Sir! I have been using your AutoBox method with great success and will now try to find the courage to work on my sagging seat.
Cheers,
Oli
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