Member Since: 01 Nov 2021
Location: Exeter
Posts: 31
Prop shaft Center carrier bearing
Today I decided it was time to swap out the prop centre bearing, after recently doing the low pressure fuel pump I noticed a lot of play in the bearing bushing. I was a bit nervous after Land Rover told me it was a non serviceable part and I would have to get a whole new shaft.
Anyway, this is the state of the old bushing:
Glad I got it done, but I have some notes if anyone else does this job:
1. If like me you are doing this on a driveway on your back - getting enough leaverage to tighten the rear of the shaft back to the rear diff is a nightmare, getting up to the 150nm spec was really hard going.
2. You need a piece of tube (or something) with an inner diameter of around 30mm to be able to knock the new bearing in place.
3. Replacing the dust boot is the ugliest and frustrating thing to do in this whole job from my experience.
4. Mark everything you take off against whatever it is attached to, as the props are balanced and must go back the same way.
5. As you separate the prop shaft, I did mine in a vice, mark a spline on one side of the prop, and the CV on the other, as this will also need to back in the same orientation.
6. The Circlip holding the two halves together is a
Let’s see how long my fix lasts!Newbie - 2008 D3 HSE 2.7 TDV6 - Stornoway Grey
12th Apr 2022 6:41 pm
eightfoot
Member Since: 12 Apr 2015
Location: sunny essex
Posts: 769
did you check the rear uj whilst it was off please excuse any grammer/punctuation mistakes,i'm thick,thankyou
current vehicles 2005 d3 2013 d4
12th Apr 2022 9:01 pm
PitVital
Member Since: 01 Nov 2021
Location: Exeter
Posts: 31
Ah nuts, what should I have been checking for?Newbie - 2008 D3 HSE 2.7 TDV6 - Stornoway Grey
12th Apr 2022 9:16 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2298
Worth checking for notchiness in the rear U/J, mine felt quite noticeably notchy after 94k miles, (centre bearing rubber part had split/detached as well). I took it to the dump, not worth bothering to fix it. D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
12th Apr 2022 10:29 pm
PitVital
Member Since: 01 Nov 2021
Location: Exeter
Posts: 31
Ah okay, I did clean up the end of the U/J and the diff mounting face - nothing stood out to me as damaged. I need to do an inner CV boot this week so I might just pop the prop back off and double checkNewbie - 2008 D3 HSE 2.7 TDV6 - Stornoway Grey
12th Apr 2022 10:51 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2298
If you do, don’t remove it completely at this stage ….. If you undo the centre bearing attachment bolts, and remove the rear coupling bolts (I know it’s a pain), then just lower the rear of the prop a bit. Try moving the rear u/j about on its bearings. If you can feel tight spots and loose spots in the bearings, then I’m afraid it will effectively be scrap, ( as the bearings and central ‘spider’ cannot be replaced like back in the old days)
12th Apr 2022 11:17 pm
NC500
Member Since: 18 Sep 2017
Location: On the NC500
Posts: 498
I fitted one of these. I don’t have to worry any more!
Member Since: 28 Dec 2018
Location: Cradley Heath
Posts: 382
We used to replace just the centre carrier, but at the end of the day it is a lot of faffing about and time. You can pick up a decent new prop shaft from Advanced Factors for as little as £265 with the peace of mind that both ends are also new.
FYI, an original JLR prop shaft is actually a rebadged GKN one at about £150 cheaper.
And don't forget to change the bolts as well.Joe
13th Apr 2022 7:30 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13672
Hi @ NC500
Just wished to say what a cracking idea , looks very simple to fit going by the video
Thks again as that’s the first time I’ve seen one
13th Apr 2022 7:38 am
NC500
Member Since: 18 Sep 2017
Location: On the NC500
Posts: 498
😊
13th Apr 2022 7:42 am
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2459
gstuart wrote:
Hi @ NC500
Just wished to say what a cracking idea , looks very simple to fit going by the video
Thks again as that’s the first time I’ve seen one
But the cost is high you might as well get a complete propAndrew
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
13th Apr 2022 8:17 am
munst
Member Since: 16 Sep 2020
Location: GLOS
Posts: 155
I thought the rotarybearings themselves failed as well not just the rubber?
13th Apr 2022 9:05 am
reb78
Member Since: 21 Apr 2018
Location: Herts
Posts: 217
I suspect if you catch the bush before it has deteriorated significantly you will save the bearings.
As aja says though - that fitting, whilst it looks a really good idea, will come out around the same price as the whole prop!
I am surprised Polybush havent made some sort of split bush that could be fitted in situ with some sort of retainer ring.
13th Apr 2022 11:08 am
reb78
Member Since: 21 Apr 2018
Location: Herts
Posts: 217
Didnt have time to watch the video of that replacement bearing carrier earlier. Its pretty much what I thought a company like Polybush might come up with. Its a great idea, but where on earth do they get that price from? Its more like a £40-£50 part and then its questionably expensive? At that price I would replace the original carrier on a new prop, but not at the price they are asking!
13th Apr 2022 10:34 pm
highlands
Member Since: 11 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5096
£10 of Sikaflex.
Job jobbed! Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
Grey 05 TDV6 HSE Auto (Gone)
54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
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