After I had it all sanded down I pushed the rubber secrion and it all cracked , so had to remove it all again
Have been searching for ages to try and find a decent filler, did buy ages ago some plastic 2mm rods as wondering about drilling some holes, fitting the plastic pegs to see if that will help the filler to bond onto it better
Or wonder if I could use a fine mesh
Many thks as always
Before
After
22nd Jul 2021 6:50 pm
Ruarz
Member Since: 17 Oct 2020
Location: Fife
Posts: 21
You might have better luck with a polyurethane adhesive/sealant like tiger seal or puraflex 40. They'll stick better and stay flexible. 👍
22nd Jul 2021 7:22 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
Many thks and I’ll check them out
Did use the adhesive masterbond , speedbond in the pic below to glue the small piece back in and that’s worked brilliantly , just annoying having to remove the filler , had thought at one point of using that but alas can’t sand it down
Also thought if something that was used on boats would work, ie like an epoxy but assume that would melt the rubber due to the heat when its curing
Thks again for the suggestions
Can see this was how it started and can’t see the glue join anymore , after I had removed the filler took a bit more out with the finger sander to allow more room for the filler to bite onto, well that was the theory
22nd Jul 2021 8:02 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
Ruarz wrote:
You might have better luck with a polyurethane adhesive/sealant like tiger seal or puraflex 40. They'll stick better and stay flexible. 👍
Just found this from the tiger seal search , wonder if this would work plse
Member Since: 24 Jul 2008
Location: morley, leeds
Posts: 311
Have you tried experimenting with expanding foam, typically the same style as builders use, just use something strong enough to contain the expansion and use cling film to form a non stick barrier to the outer surface. That can be sanded and a stopper filler putty used to creat smooth enough surface for painting.
Sounds rather bodge it scarper fix, but fixed is fixed
Regards
MartinDiscovery 4.5 HSE 2015 MY
Discovery 3 SE 2007 MY gone with spinning journals
22nd Jul 2021 9:08 pm
Ruarz
Member Since: 17 Oct 2020
Location: Fife
Posts: 21
I think either of those fillers would give the same result as the one you've tried aleady. They are really designed for use on harder plastics such as bumpers with limited flex.
Did the speed bond set to a rubbery consistency? If so I'd give that a go as it seems similar to the products I suggested.
gstuart wrote:
Ruarz wrote:
You might have better luck with a polyurethane adhesive/sealant like tiger seal or puraflex 40. They'll stick better and stay flexible. 👍
Just found this from the tiger seal search , wonder if this would work plse
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
garfield2 wrote:
Have you tried experimenting with expanding foam, typically the same style as builders use, just use something strong enough to contain the expansion and use cling film to form a non stick barrier to the outer surface. That can be sanded and a stopper filler putty used to creat smooth enough surface for painting.
Sounds rather bodge it scarper fix, but fixed is fixed
Regards
Martin
Hi Martin
That’s a dam good idea , I like that and indeed will try that if the glue I’ve already used doesn’t work, great back up plan
Very grateful to u, thank u
22nd Jul 2021 9:41 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
Ruarz wrote:
I think either of those fillers would give the same result as the one you've tried aleady. They are really designed for use on harder plastics such as bumpers with limited flex.
Did the speed bond set to a rubbery consistency? If so I'd give that a go as it seems similar to the products I suggested.
gstuart wrote:
Ruarz wrote:
You might have better luck with a polyurethane adhesive/sealant like tiger seal or puraflex 40. They'll stick better and stay flexible. 👍
Just found this from the tiger seal search , wonder if this would work plse
Many thks, indeed the glue set and adhered really well and that’s also a great idea , think ur right u know with regards to the filler, just not being flexible enough
Have some small flexible trowels which I think may be best to use , might try having a small jug of water to dip the trowels in to try and ensure the adhesive is smoothed out seeing it can’t be sanded
Appreciated as now have a couple of things that I can try
Thk u so much
Last edited by gstuart on 22nd Jul 2021 10:42 pm. Edited 1 time in total
No need to contain the foam with clingfilm as it can be cut to shape later.
Gun-grade foam stays denser and expands less. Sticks best to slightly damp surfaces.
If you've found a glue that adheres well and doesn't crack, you could try building it up in layers?.
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
22nd Jul 2021 9:57 pm
jenseneverest
Member Since: 12 Jun 2017
Location: somewhere
Posts: 769
sikaflex, commonly found bonding cars, boats, buses together. Or screenfix for bonding glass to buildings / vechiles, both are bloody strong but can be messy if not applied carefully. wear gloves lol
22nd Jul 2021 10:24 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
Just found the full spec of the adhesive I used, reason I did get it because I read that it can glue spoilers etc on
Master Seal Wet-on-Wet Speed Body Kit & Spoiler Bond is the perfect solution for bonding body work and spoilers. We’ve tried them all (Tiger Seal, Sikaflex) and we find Master Seal to be better, stronger and quicker drying.
Master Seal Wet on Wet Speed Bond Body Kit & Spoiler Bond
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
Hardware wrote:
No need to contain the foam with clingfilm as it can be cut to shape later.
Gun-grade foam stays denser and expands less. Sticks best to slightly damp surfaces.
If you've found a glue that adheres well and doesn't crack, you could try building it up in layers?
Many thks and didn’t realise that ref foam
It sure does stick well that’s for sure and indeed am going to try that first , the edge I’m thinking of clamping some hardboard and use that as a straight edge and then once that done fill in the top
Like when u do cement in having a straight edge to work off to smooth / level the top
As always most appreciated , thk u
22nd Jul 2021 10:49 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
jenseneverest wrote:
https://
sikaflex, commonly found bonding cars, boats, buses together. Or screenfix for bonding glass to buildings / vechiles, both are bloody strong but can be messy if not applied carefully. wear gloves lol
That’s brilliant , thks for the link
Will see how I get on with the adhesive I’ve got but awesome of all the suggestions as plan B
Very grateful and thks so much
22nd Jul 2021 10:51 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
Out of curiosity has anyone used this before seeing its boat related plse
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