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grizzlymac
Member Since: 01 May 2010
Location: Blair Atholl
Posts: 13
  
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On my landrover driving day the instructor said in deep snow your sometimes better off using the mud and ruts as opposed to the snow program. Not had a chance to test it but roll on winter.
As said in other posts here the disco if great in snow but doesn't stop that easy as it's a big mass with a lot of momentum and give junctions plenty time to slow down gradually. Easy on all the peddles and the one of the biggest improvements in poor conditions is good tires. The original spec is good but if your doing a lot of the rough stuff then get an AT tire.
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 Fri Nov 04 2011 3:49pm |
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lordoftheflatbush
Member Since: 20 Jun 2011
Location: Amsterdam
Posts: 21
 
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I have a D4 and know you officially are not advised to fit snowchains. I saw several videos, also from LR Experience, where D4 drove with snowchains. My question: is this possible in a standard D4 (with 255/55/19 wheels) or do I have to fit wheel spacers to create more room to fit tyres and reduce the risk of damage.
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| Fri Nov 04 2011 11:24pm |
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BLFarrar
Member Since: 02 Aug 2006
Location: Deepest, Dankest, Darkest, Dingiest......Halifax, West Yorkshire
Posts: 1304
  
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Spike spiders, Quatrro Clack & Go, RUD , Thule or Maggi devices that dont have any part behind the wheel ....have Disco3 HSE TD6 Auto...winter mobile
....also Jag XK......the economy 5.0 litre one...I'm REALLY smitten with this
....& have a Freelander 2 SE Auto...realistic runabout....
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| Mon Nov 07 2011 9:30am |
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Dinsdale
Member Since: 29 Jun 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 108
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Yep, I agree with BL. EXCEPT Weissenfells Quatro Clack & Go SUV are a full-wrap chain which LR do not recommend. They ARE however the best full wrap auto chain I have ever used so far.
All of the other brands he suggests do a surface fit mechanism that affixes via your own wheel bolts, usually by some form of chuck mechanism that grips the original bolt heads, (Spikes-Spiders do a special metal plate that has to be prefitted to the car and left on).
The chains themselves DO NOT go anywhere near the back of the wheel/tyre like conventional chains and so cannot interfere with any pipework, suspension parts etc. All of them are probably the EASIEST and CLEANEST type of chain to fit AND remove. It might be possible however to slide them OFF the tyre with vigorous activity on hard pack or tarmac as they of course are not LOCKED onto the tyre like conventional chains by being totally wrapped round them. I think you'd be bl  dy mad to try though 
These types of chain I suspect however will not give you as much traction and side grip as full-wrap chains and I doubt will be as good on ice as there have to be fewer ice-links in the chain design, simply becasue of the smaller total surface area of chain.
Don't forget decent PROPER winter rated tyres will give you far more overall control than all season/summer rated tyres with chains. AND ONLY fit chains to the FRONT wheels and USUALLY better with TC switched off in most circumstances.
They ALL make fitments for 255/55/19 tyres. Spikes-Spiders are the LR recommended ones but DON'T pay LR premium prices. They are ALL more expensive than the most expensive quick-fit conventional chains BUT unlike most chains can be resized more easily, either themselves or with spares, to fit a wide range of wheel/tyre sizes, so you DON'T have to change them every time you have a different wheel/tyre combo.
For my money I think the Magi Trax 4x4/SUV look the best combination of design/fitting/durability and chain link design but Spikes Spiders are probably the very easiest of the lot to fit on-the-go.
You can be stopped in some ski resorts in Europe if you DON'T have a set of snow chains, EVEN in a 4x4 Land Rover with winter tyres.
Clive If it don't fit the third time - try a bigger hammer
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| Tue Nov 08 2011 1:19am |
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lordoftheflatbush
Member Since: 20 Jun 2011
Location: Amsterdam
Posts: 21
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I bought the Weissenfells Quatro Clack & Go SUV recently and fitted them on the rear axle (to try out).
There is plenty space around, so I don't see the reason why this wouldn't be possible.
I also check with Matzker in Koln/Germany and they confirmed they drove already a lot with chains on both axles.
I bought one set for usage on the rear axle, just in case. I drive around with Pirelli snow tyres, so this is not necessary hopefully. In two week I go to Austria and hope for (some) snow.
Keep you posted.
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| Sun Dec 04 2011 10:32pm |
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RichardB
Member Since: 04 May 2010
Location: Hants
Posts: 313
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lordoftheflatbush wrote:I bought the Weissenfells Quatro Clack & Go SUV recently and fitted them on the rear axle (to try out).
There is plenty space around, so I don't see the reason why this wouldn't be possible.
I also check with Matzker in Koln/Germany and they confirmed they drove already a lot with chains on both axles.
I bought one set for usage on the rear axle, just in case. I drive around with Pirelli snow tyres, so this is not necessary hopefully. In two week I go to Austria and hope for (some) snow.
Keep you posted.
I thought the recommendation was, with just a single pair of chains, to fit those to a drive and steering wheels. In other words the front rather than rear for a Disco. I suspect there may be more clearance issues on the front.
Though to be fair, putting them on the rear has to be better than none at all!
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| Mon Dec 05 2011 9:00pm |
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Dinsdale
Member Since: 29 Jun 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 108
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Richard B is correct there is an absolute LR statement to ONLY fit to the FRONT wheels, traction devices of a certain type - which are NOT of the FULL-WRAP design.
Snow chain suppliers will say the same thing AND interestigly Clack & Go were the ONLY make that could be fitted to my X3 and to the FRONT only.
There is also no doubt that IF you are fitting ONE set to a FULL-TIME four wheel drive this should be on the FRONT only.
I would not run my Clack & Go on the front of a D4, as even though a very low profile link, it is mighty close to the upper wish bone- less than an ich I would say. With as much suspension travel as you can get in a DISCO I'd be surprised if if it might not rub at some point - and those links are damn hard and could cut through most things given time.
I'm afraid I don't agree re rear only, as you want steer and stop not just POWER. I could get through anything in My 3 & 5 series Beemers and even the S Type with chains on the back, BUT NOT necessarily in the RIGHT direction of travel  If it don't fit the third time - try a bigger hammer
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| Tue Dec 06 2011 3:19pm |
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cold_n_wet
Member Since: 05 May 2009
Location: Bergen
Posts: 874
 
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I regular use Konig No problems on the front with 17" standard Landrover wheels.
I dont have a clearance problem.
On the steep climbs to our cabin, I felt the back end slip all over the place.
I will get another set for the back me thinks RLD Sump plate.
RLD sill protector
RLD hidden winch.
------------------------------------
Paid up member of the weber club.
MSV2 multi- vehcile
Club recovery rope.
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| Tue Dec 06 2011 8:27pm |
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