RCDtripper
Member Since: 05 Jun 2011
Location: warwickshire
Posts: 420
  
|
 spot on KP D3 HSE TDV6 AUTO
Blue Fin Superchip
De-tango'ed headlamps (with glowing amber side reflectors)
grey side-repeaters
black L/R logo centercaps
B.A.S intelligent FBH controller
Wicked Wheels Mobile refurb
Flip down DVD player, game console.
Bright-white led dome lights through-out (to match dvd player)
Smoooooooooooth (not sticky+lumpy) steering wheel
Uncle Ray's spare wheel anti-pikie device
Freelander Td4, Rover-Ron Chip, Tints, Hid conversion kit, remote FBH controller
|
 Wed Jan 18 2012 10:53pm |
|
|
CUCO
Member Since: 27 May 2011
Location: Spain & Oleee!!!
Posts: 105
  
|
Sorry, I read the tread only in part, I have read it again, and assuming that the spade conectors are the ones that conect the electrical cable to the windscreen, so if you checked it, you have heatd version.
To test if you have electrical power, you could use a 12v lamp or bulb and a pair of wires if you don have a multimeter, conect a wire to one spade conector and the other one to the other conector, and the same at the other tip of the cables but to the bulb. If there is light when you conect heated windscreen (do no confuse with hot air defroster button at climate control panel) then, something wrong in the windscreen, if not, then double check all wiring, includind the inside fuses panel conectors, the ones that are embedded inthe fuses panel and crimps the fuse metal "legs", sometimes they get loose and fail or overheat, check ALL THE FUSES, whatever rating and size, if all fuse are ok, then go to the relay and try to hear if it clicks.
These are the two things to test in a first aproach. Next is that the relay is doing his work conecting and disconecting, easy to check swapping with a similar relay and testing for power at the spade conectors with the bulb as before.
It could be the climate control panel at the end or a internal cutted cable, but...maybe I would start with this checkpoints befor thinking it this last 2 situations.
|
| Thu Jan 19 2012 1:38am |
|
|
Coolhurst
Member Since: 09 Nov 2010
Location: Cirencester
Posts: 15
|
Thanks all for your replies. It's definitely a heated screen (can see the thin wires) and was fitted by Autoglass so I'll check that power is getting to it before calling them out as a last resort.
|
| Mon Jan 30 2012 2:34pm |
|
|
crews control
Member Since: 18 Mar 2007
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 1976
|
If you look at the front of the 'A' pillars, from outside the car, can you see the screen ribbon connectors through the glass on both sides? The Chinese copy glass that Autoglass often fit usually has bright yellow connectors that don't hide behind the interior trim properly. Apart from looking rubbish, I've found these heated screens rarely work properly for more than one winter.
|
| Mon Jan 30 2012 4:11pm |
|
|
Coolhurst
Member Since: 09 Nov 2010
Location: Cirencester
Posts: 15
|
crews control wrote:...ribbon connectors through the glass on both sides...The Chinese copy glass that Autoglass often fit usually has bright yellow connectors...
From memory mine look sort of gold foil but will clarify when I get round to attempting a fix on Saturday.
|
| Thu Feb 02 2012 3:36pm |
|
|
Gareth
Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 15752
 
|
The heated windscreen can be inhibited by low voltage. The car's 'brain' has a strategy for preserving power, including inhibiting the heated screen and seats, washers, mirrors etc.
I find that on a cold morning it really helps to speed up the thawing process if you hold the revs at 1750 for a minute or so. This gets the alternator working to full power, and raises the system voltage sufficiently to enable operation of the screen. Club 18 - 30 (I wish !!)
|
| Thu Feb 02 2012 4:45pm |
|
|
