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truck5181
Member Since: 31 Dec 2010
Location: york
Posts: 39
  
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i know i should put it on charge to help it through winter but carnt get near the garage for the wifes cooper S 
apparently it needs to be tucked up nice and warm to save time scapping the ice off before the school run 
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 Fri Jan 27 2012 8:57pm |
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tonyhodge
Member Since: 21 Jul 2009
Location: Leicester
Posts: 37
 
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[quote="tonyhodge"]smaskins wrote:Mine does the same thing......on cold mornings.
It's an 06 on the original battey.[/quoteyyes mine is 06 as well
]
had my battery checked to day and its ok, still no wiser. but this morning it came up HDC fault ?????
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| Sat Jan 28 2012 7:57pm |
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CG
Member Since: 13 Nov 2007
Location: In the middle somewhere
Posts: 3681
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Mine doing the same, journeys are a bit longer, but the battery is original (56plate) and with the light set to auto it does not help on dark mornings and nights. Formerly shiny moose
Silver TDV6 S with sat nav, PTI, Mantec, Traxide and Moosed up a bit
member of Club MTR
"I know that you believe that you understood what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you read is not what I meant"
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| Sat Jan 28 2012 10:39pm |
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tonyhodge
Member Since: 21 Jul 2009
Location: Leicester
Posts: 37
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[quote="tonyhodge"]tonyhodge wrote:smaskins wrote:Mine does the same thing......on cold mornings.
It's an 06 on the original battey.[/quoteyyes mine is 06 as well
]
had my battery checked to day and its ok, still no wiser. but this morning it came up HDC fault ?????
Had battery checked today in morning, volt meter 12v and sat nav diagnostic says 11v volt, but still get same fault
what do I do now
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| Sun Feb 05 2012 2:31pm |
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Somerset Jem
Member Since: 07 Jul 2011
Location: somerset
Posts: 177
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I posted a couple of days ago "cold start issues". I get 'HDC fault' and 'special programmes off' when starting from cold, nothing when warmed up. The general opinion was battery fubared  I think mines the original battery on an 05 so not done too bad really. It's a LR battery 90Ah and 825 Amps CCA, I think the batteries have now been upgraded to a higher spec so hopefully the new one will be up to the job.
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| Sun Feb 05 2012 3:18pm |
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hids4u
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 12 Apr 2009
Location: Leeds
Posts: 713
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I wouldnt trust the battery check/test. Measuring voltage without load is one thing - but it needs measuring under load. They take a hammering when you are starting the car and even after its first started.
I have this issue since new on my car. The battery proved fine in tests - but since biting the bullet and swapping for a new uprated varta battery the issue has almost gone away.
I still from time to time get it - also on the sport and this got a new battery at the same time. Symptons are jump in car start and drive straight off - its seems that the voltage drops in the circuits to the ecu dont get full voltage and then fairy lights come on. If i can - i try to start engine and wait a few seconds before blasting off. Pretty pathetic really on a new car but i just got used to it.
The battery for sure will make a big difference
You could try putting your existing battery on charge overnight - it might take a few nights to fully charge so it takes zero current. Then try it for a few days to see if it goes away
I still top my battery up from time to time with the charger - and it can draw 4 amps initially. The power startup and then demand of all the electronics is huge so short runs all the time - or even longer runs with everything on dont give the battery much chance to be recharged.
Was thinking about adding an aux battery - how do people with those get on - does it resolve the fairy light fault?
r
ian http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use...une_11.pdf
Land Line HIDS4U 02380706549
www.leds4u.co.uk
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| Sun Feb 05 2012 3:29pm |
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Navigator
Member Since: 17 Mar 2010
Location: GM1VBE on www.aprs.fi
Posts: 2020
 
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I've noticed these messages very occasionally - sometimes on first start, sometimes not. Even get to driving away and having little to no power from the engine and have to stop, switch off and start again. When it is being started up there are all sorts of checks going on, usually that fast that messages dont get time to be displayed on the screen. Cold weather or low battery could slow down the process allowing us mortals to see the messages.
Then we get impatient and have a gear selected ready for the first fire of the engine, and promptly let out the clutch before all the checks are completed. That upsets the way the computer wants to do things so we get rewarded with messages and low power?
Anybody fancy trying this deliberately and see if the also get the pessages and low power? 
Land Rover - Making mechanics out of drivers since 1948.
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| Sun Feb 05 2012 4:29pm |
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M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: England
Posts: 283
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Simply test the battery under load, connect 2 wires from the battery positive and negative (any thin cable will do even speaker cable) to a multi-meter in the car, switch the multi-meter on set to 20v dc, start the engine, if the voltage drops below 9.6 volts when cranking the engine and the battery has been on charge battery has shot it  . It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
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| Sun Feb 05 2012 4:45pm |
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tonyhodge
Member Since: 21 Jul 2009
Location: Leicester
Posts: 37
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M3DPO wrote:Simply test the battery under load, connect 2 wires from the battery positive and negative (any thin cable will do even speaker cable) to a multi-meter in the car, switch the multi-meter on set to 20v dc, start the engine, if the voltage drops below 9.6 volts when cranking the engine and the battery has been on charge battery has shot it .
Battery has been on charge over night and it shows 12v from cold when running goes upto 15v? this D3 has had a new alternator fitted to it and proves to work ,when running it goes upto 15v
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| Sun Feb 05 2012 5:40pm |
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M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: England
Posts: 283
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tonyhodge wrote:M3DPO wrote:Simply test the battery under load, connect 2 wires from the battery positive and negative (any thin cable will do even speaker cable) to a multi-meter in the car, switch the multi-meter on set to 20v dc, start the engine, if the voltage drops below 9.6 volts when cranking the engine and the battery has been on charge battery has shot it .
Battery has been on charge over night and it shows 12v from cold when running goes upto 15v? this D3 has had a new alternator fitted to it and proves to work ,when running it goes upto 15v
It still does not mean the battery is good without testing it under load as I have described above, it isn't what it shows without load it must read above 9.6volts or over when under load, it could drop to as low as 3volts under load, this is one of the things that courses errors in the system and fault lights come on, think of it like the human body, why do people get frost bite? - because the blood flow shuts down to preserve the body from freezing, this is exactly what the ecu does, shuts the minor utilities down to keep the essential components working, hence fault lights and or anccilories shut down.
Dual batteries are not the answer in fact it could make the situation worse unless one battery is kept fully charged and that battery is used for cranking, in fact a smaller capacity could be better due to the fact it would take less time to keep it fully charged especially on short journeys. It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
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| Sun Feb 05 2012 6:52pm |
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Chippy
Member Since: 05 Jan 2012
Location: Surrey
Posts: 19
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Its the battery, mine did the same, tested fine and never failed once. Local indi tested it under load and there was small drop, He swapped it for the new upgraded LR battery and its spot on now. Even the dash seems brighter, the old one was 7 years old so it had done well. Battery cost £118.
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| Sun Feb 05 2012 7:07pm |
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tonyhodge
Member Since: 21 Jul 2009
Location: Leicester
Posts: 37
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tonyhodge wrote:M3DPO wrote:Simply test the battery under load, connect 2 wires from the battery positive and negative (any thin cable will do even speaker cable) to a multi-meter in the car, switch the multi-meter on set to 20v dc, start the engine, if the voltage drops below 9.6 volts when cranking the engine and the battery has been on charge battery has shot it .
Battery has been on charge over night and it shows 12v from cold when running goes upto 15v? this D3 has had a new alternator fitted to it and proves to work ,when running it goes upto 15v
New battery fitted today see how that goes 
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| Mon Feb 06 2012 8:48pm |
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mees
Member Since: 21 Oct 2009
Location: bru
Posts: 20
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Now the nights are very cold my suspension is sinking overnight. This morning I got the message SPECIAL PROGRAMMES OFF. could it be that the battery is on his way out? Or something else?
car is 6 years old, still the original battery.
cannot find the clear answer on the site.
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| Tue Feb 07 2012 11:21am |
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mark the spark
Member Since: 22 Jun 2011
Location: southampton
Posts: 459
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battery 
changed mine last year no probs this winter 5/6 years seems to be the life expectancy smoooooth steering wheel upgrade , wiggs D4 bluetooth upgrade
nav on move , auto handbrake release on an 05 manual !!!
3 flash indicators ,roof mounted dvd player, 4X4 info, xenons ,
LED side and interior lamp upgrade, side steps , new battery alternator and compressor "slimey front end" with headlight mod D4 rear lights ,the big service !!
oh and Adriatic beautiful blue
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| Tue Feb 07 2012 11:29am |
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mees
Member Since: 21 Oct 2009
Location: bru
Posts: 20
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thanks your reply
your suspension was also sinking overnight?
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| Tue Feb 07 2012 11:44am |
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