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discodude
Member Since: 03 May 2011
Location: NORFOLK
Posts: 13


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Thanks again can the brake pad sensor cause the fault.
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Wed May 04 2011 9:15am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 382


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| Brake pad sensor - good question. |
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discodude wrote:Thanks again can the brake pad sensor cause the fault. I have never heard of the suspension being affected by the brake pad sensor light but then having the wear sensor light go on is not that common in the first place.
Since the light is tied to the brake system and the computers, if it is on, I would resolve that concern as just perhaps....
The air suspension should not be affected by brake light switch or bulb problems either, but it is, so maybe the wear sensor creates trouble also.
About all I can say is that GM had a similar problem with their pickups in the early nineties when antilock brakes systems were first introduced. A tail light problem registered as a transmission fault. Since it had coil and leaf springs, it was pretty difficult for there to be any air suspension shutdown however. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L V8 petrol; Zambezi Silver; 18" x 10 spoke wheels; underside of glass roof located hidden cellular patch antenna; Traxide Dual Battery install; Air Suspension ECU 35P fuse disconnect; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads on OEM solid vented discs.
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Wed May 04 2011 3:09pm |
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discodude
Member Since: 03 May 2011
Location: NORFOLK
Posts: 13


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Many tHanks for your advice but I have found the fault it is the 60 amp fuse got a new one from dealer £1.99 inc spare ant vat now all functions are back to normal.would have been better if garage had surgested it that would of saved a few quid on diagnostic test.thanks again
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Wed May 04 2011 3:27pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 382


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| 60 amp fusible link powers compressor |
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I appreciate the update. It is nice to know how events were resolved.
For the fusible link to go, I wondered if the dealer had a reason as to perhaps why it failed?
That is a pretty big fuse just to quit for no real reason.
I will say that when my compressor jammed, to my surprise, the 60 amp did not go, but instead some other safety system shut off power to the compressor, hence only the compressor was replaced. The dealer did go over the wiring to the compressor a bit just to see if some wiring damage had not occurred as a result of the compressor seizing.
I would keep an ear on the compressor noises for the next few days. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L V8 petrol; Zambezi Silver; 18" x 10 spoke wheels; underside of glass roof located hidden cellular patch antenna; Traxide Dual Battery install; Air Suspension ECU 35P fuse disconnect; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads on OEM solid vented discs.
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Wed May 04 2011 4:01pm |
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Daramb
Member Since: 11 Jun 2010
Location: nb
Posts: 16


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I had my suspension fail and could not reset with the hawkeye. Changed the compressor, but that did't fix the problem.
Eventually, many connectors where re connected(solded) at the computer(forward left behind brake pedal, they seemed to be
corroded) Also it's could be an idea to check the plugs above the left forward wheel(behind the mud flap)
Also changed the valve block which directs the compressed air. Eventually, problem fixed.
If one is not to attached to the air part of the suspension, a good solution would be to switch to spring suspension.
They work better under loaded conditions, since the spring becomes stiffer the heavier the car gets.
For the expedition work we do, the air system is simply not adequate and reliable enough.
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Sun May 15 2011 8:19pm |
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character
Member Since: 01 Jan 2008
Location: wiltshire
Posts: 4184


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ok guys, ere we go again
Had all the tie rods changed by an inde, all fine and good (or so I thought).
Last Wednesday had need to change o/s/r brake light but did not have OEM one on board, so changed the one over with non OEM and thought I'd get one en-route the next day.
Whilst on-route via LR in Salisbury and about 10 miles from dealers, "warning lights " etc came on, so pulled over and did a soft reset, all fine and bought/changed over non oem rear brake light.
Got another 4 miles down the road and same warning lights as before. So turned round and headed back to dealers.
They stuck him immediately on IDS only to find a host of faults (most of which were historic) but in particular:
U0100-87 PBM - lost communication with engine control module/power train control A
UO401-68 - VDM Invalid data recieved from engine control module/powertrain control module
C1A07-62 RLM Cross articulation
This C1A07-62 was felt by the tech to be the reason given that we'd had all tie rods changed/tracking done only a number of weeks earlier. So they "checked height sensors and wiring - re-calibrated air suspension heights"
SYMPTOMS PRIOR TO VISIT
Air suspension fine although front end was always sitting lower on both side than rear end. I associaited that with the Brian James Tilt bed trailer often attached and when you put it into the raised position for unloading (the trailer that it), it often caused the rear end of the D3 to rise slightly. The air suspension goes up and down and will level the front end when started. It also farts was well although I have noticed that the rear end will often stay at the same height but associated that with my driveway having a slight slope and me backing the vehicle rear end first. Will go from access mode to normal drive height without any issues.
SYMPTOMS AFTER VISIT
No more " warnings" etc however this afternoon noticed that the rear end again is higher that the front and in particular the N/S rear corner is a decent bit higher that the other corners with the car now sitting lobsided and I believe as a consequence the air compressor runs a decent amount of time longer when started from cold (around 45 seconds even though the vehicle is left at standard height when parked):
Measure on level ground with the engine running, no trailer attached but kit in the boot for work (as it was when it was calibrated):
OSF - From centre of wheel hub cap to underside of wheel arch 18"
NSF - From centre of wheel hub cap to underside of wheel arch 19"
OSR - From centre of wheel hub cap to underside of wheel arch 19.5"
NSR - From centre of wheel hub cap to underside of wheel arch 20.5"
Any advise would be appreciated as I gettin a wee bit fed up on the suspension issues.
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Sun May 15 2011 11:23pm |
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jones
Member Since: 29 Aug 2011
Location: Kidderminster
Posts: 1


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Got off Ferry in Calais loaded to the gunnels with camping gear and kids set off down A28 towards La Rochelle,70 mph,bong and down went suspension taking out rear n/s tyre.Holiday insurance covered tyre change due to LR jack useful for ornamental purpose only.Bounced around France for 1500 miles on "normal" setting allowed.Second week camping in Cornwall,After another 1000miles bike rack gave up and bounced through rear window,spent only sunny day picking up bits of glass from unhappy campsite,ho-hum.Took car to independant who scratched his head and redirected me to Riders in Yeovil,I feared a good shafting as I avoid my local dealers like the plague and use a good independant,but,I have nothing but praise for the 1st class service Riders gave,maybe the chap could see that I was a broken man by this point,I thought the tartan rug for back window was a nice touch.All told spent £1300.I still love it and enjoy driving it more than any other car I've had.I think this is why the British are renowned for their sense of humour
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Sat Sep 03 2011 1:10pm |
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Dave Shirley
Member Since: 22 Sep 2011
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 3


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Survey completed and I do get an occasional problem thats very annoying but 7 times out of 10 resets itself after stopping and restarting engine. Thanks, Dave.
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Thu Sep 22 2011 1:06pm |
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Steve P
Member Since: 24 Jan 2011
Location: Essex
Posts: 11


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Opps Compressor failure over the weekend. Thankfully still under warranty. Ongar Bridge are busy collecting a replacement as we speak while wifey does some window shopping.
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Tue Nov 15 2011 11:34am |
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TIKO
Member Since: 31 Dec 2006
Location: Saint-Petersburg
Posts: 1


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Daramb wrote:I had my suspension fail and could not reset with the hawkeye. Changed the compressor, but that did't fix the problem.
Eventually, many connectors where re connected(solded) at the computer(forward left behind brake pedal, they seemed to be
corroded) Also it's could be an idea to check the plugs above the left forward wheel(behind the mud flap)
Also changed the valve block which directs the compressed air. Eventually, problem fixed.
If one is not to attached to the air part of the suspension, a good solution would be to switch to spring suspension.
They work better under loaded conditions, since the spring becomes stiffer the heavier the car gets.
For the expedition work we do, the air system is simply not adequate and reliable enough.
From the 2007 model year the Disco3 does not have plug behind left front mud flap. It has been moved behind left head light. So, in many cases, when you see "Suspention fault, normal heght only", and fault codes about pressure senders, - check that plug first.
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Thu Jan 26 2012 11:06am |
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aliwoh
Member Since: 01 Mar 2012
Location: Perth
Posts: 7


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I picked up a 2005 4.0L SE from a main dealer the other week. When I got home, I noticed the rear left corner looked lower than the rest. Tape measure to wheel arch confirmed the rear left was 15mm lower than the rear right.
Then I noticed that within 1 minute of the engine being turned off after a drive, the rear left vents and you can see it sag.
The dealer had it for a full day and could not get it to do it. They plugged it in to the computer and no faults were identified. Their response was a "Computer says no". They also said that it was within limits for the whole left side of the car to be 10mm lower than the right at all times. I drove 10 k's, stopped and the rear left sagged. The car is level when the engine is running though.
But.......
Now the right side of the car is 25mm lower than the left? I did fuel the car the night before but surely that wouldn't effect it.
I do not get any fault codes or warning lights on the dash. 2005 4.0L SE. Little suction cup mirror on windscreen to see the kids, foldaway reflective sunscreen from Supercheap Auto.
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Sun Mar 25 2012 1:37am |
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caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 5288


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Farting is normal. Vehicle will self level regularly. Even when locked it will wake up to fart.
The dealer should know this. Did they do a height calibration on it? 10mm may be the official tolerance but they should be able to get in within five.
When you refuel or put something in the back it will sag and needs to self level again. it will drop on the right when re-fueling as that is where the tank is. "A society that will trade a little liberty for a little order will lose both- and deserve neither"
Thomas Jefferson.
TDV6: Adaptive Headlights, Electronic Rear Diff, ARB Bar, Blaupunkt Speakers, JVC Powered Subwoofer, Removable Snorkel, Mitchell Bros Tow Hitch, Pioneer After Market Head Unit, Zenarc Touch Screen, In Car Sub-notebook, GPS Anntenna, Steering Wheel Control Adaptor, Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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Sun Mar 25 2012 2:32am |
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aliwoh
Member Since: 01 Mar 2012
Location: Perth
Posts: 7


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Thanks for that. So is it normal for the right side stay lower after refuelling? My other concern was that the rear left farts and sags. 2005 4.0L SE. Little suction cup mirror on windscreen to see the kids, foldaway reflective sunscreen from Supercheap Auto.
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Sun Mar 25 2012 2:48am |
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caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 5288


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It shoud self level after a while. The best way to check is to park on lvel ground in neutral with the park brake off and wait for it to fart. The measure between the hub centre and the wheel arch all wheels should be within 10mm. It can take time to calibrate to within less than that.
It is possible that you may have a faulty height sensor if the height it settles at on one wheel is different each time you check it on level ground. "A society that will trade a little liberty for a little order will lose both- and deserve neither"
Thomas Jefferson.
TDV6: Adaptive Headlights, Electronic Rear Diff, ARB Bar, Blaupunkt Speakers, JVC Powered Subwoofer, Removable Snorkel, Mitchell Bros Tow Hitch, Pioneer After Market Head Unit, Zenarc Touch Screen, In Car Sub-notebook, GPS Anntenna, Steering Wheel Control Adaptor, Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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Sun Mar 25 2012 3:19am |
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optimusgrime
Member Since: 26 Mar 2012
Location: Cheltenham
Posts: 3

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I had the orange warning light coming intermittently and the suspension thought the car was grounded when I tried to lower is to access height ( it automatically went into extended mode)
I have had a new comressor fitted and all is well - so far.
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Mon Mar 26 2012 6:32pm |
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