Member Since: 30 Dec 2008
Location: midlands
Posts: 68
track rod joints / track rod inner
have any of you guys changed any of these if so is it as easy as i think i.e
-remove wheels
-disconect track rod end
-remove steering gaiter boot
-unscrew track rod joint from end of steering rack
and so on
BUT do you put threadlock on the threads that screw into the steering rack ?
and what torque do you torque them up to into the steering rack ?
a couple of pics as to what im on about
these are not actual pics but as near as dammit the big black end screws into the steering rack and the long thin end goes into the track rod end
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4th Feb 2010 10:11 pm
bellautos
Member Since: 02 Feb 2006
Location: NorthYorkshire
Posts: 2532
Ive fitted a few, they are a little fiddley to get to but not a bad job.
They screw into the end of the rack , and the end of the rack has what i can only explane as a squashed part that squashes onto the track control arm you are changing.
They dont seem to have and threadlock on as standard but i personaly use a little medium strengh to be sure.
You cant torque them up really because you have nothing to attach a torque wrench to, i just use some smooth jaw stilsons and a set of pipe grips and do them tight.
Im sure there will be a "procedure" to follow, but ive fitted hundreds over the years on cars from Fords to landrovers and not ever had a problem.
Pete
4th Feb 2010 10:35 pm
timv8
Member Since: 01 Sep 2008
Location: Bristol
Posts: 166
Before I did this job I posted a question about how to do it.
Among the various information that came back was that the GTR doesn't mention threadlock (but as Pete says, what harm does it do - as long as you can undo the rod again in the future).
Also, i found it easier to work on if you remove the plastic covers from the bottom corner of the radiator. Each one is only held on with 4 clips and you can re-use them if you're careful. Prise the centre out first, then the body of the clip comes out.
You will need a ball joint splitter to allow you to remove the rod totally.
The rods are approx £14 each, but you can buy a kit of rod, track rod end and new gaitor for approx £50 each. (The track rod ends are £30). This seems a lot more, but i didn't want to have to do the job again in a year or two if the gaitor split. Prices are TLO (helpful as always).
It also makes it easier to set the new rod to the same length as the old rod - this is important as it adjusts the tracking, which you need to get checked after doing this job. (Just the tracking, not the full alignment check). If you just buy the rods, carefully measure the length from the thread to the track rod "bolt" before you undo it, as this is what you have to get the same with the new rod!
Also note that the rods are handed - they have different size threads.
It's a very straght foward job - it should take you less than an hour.Tim
6th Feb 2010 9:39 am
speedymarktd6
Member Since: 30 Dec 2008
Location: midlands
Posts: 68
cheers guys i attempted it today and was all going well as soon as we put pressure on the inner T/R joint to undo from the inner rack part that goes left to right when you turn we found its got a lot of up and down movement in the hole which it shouldnt have so i guess the rack bushings are worn but its not leaking so after what we found out that we also found out the inner and outer T/R are still very good so the problem could have been the rack all along l but seeing as its not leaking im gonna see how long i can get out of it then just stick a new one on as i dont like refurbed or exchanged units im still very happy with the car tho as its given me sterling service over the years so i think she deserves a few more years in the speedy household
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