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Trolley Jack advice please ...
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Member Since: 15 Apr 2008
Location: Worcestershire
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England 2008 Discovery 3 TDV6 GS Manual Stornoway GreyDiscovery 3
Trolley Jack advice please ...

Hi all,

If the D3 weighs 2461kg, would I need to buy a 2.5 metric tonne trolley jack to lift it?

Stupid question, but when I lift one wheel off the ground, I'm not actually lifting the complete weight am I?

So could I use a smaller one? What size do you guys use?

(I'm thinking just wheel change's etc)

Thank you Thumbs Up
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Post #66255819th Jun 2010 11:37 pm
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Bodsy
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United Kingdom 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

Yes, you can use a smaller one, but most people have been going for the Clarke 3tonne hi lift one. Not the QL or QuickLift one as that bends apparently. Thumbs Up

Personally I've been struggling with a 2tonne one, not striggling because ofthe weight so much, but because of how high the car needs to be jacked up. So I have to work out some interesting jacking strategies to get it high enough to put my proper axe stands under Thumbs Up
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Post #66256019th Jun 2010 11:41 pm
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Thanks bodsy Thumbs Up

As a matter of interest ... when the garage changed my tyres they told me to turn on the hazard lights, and open (and leave open) the top tailgate - they said it did something to the suspension!!

I looked it up in the manaul under wheel changing - couldn't find anything Question

Any ideas? Sheep
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Post #66256419th Jun 2010 11:48 pm
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Bodsy
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It's to try to stop the air suspension going crazy when you lift the wheel up. I've never had a problem with mone, but I know that some have. Thumbs Up
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Post #66256519th Jun 2010 11:50 pm
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Well thanks again Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
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Post #66256619th Jun 2010 11:52 pm
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Trackman
 


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Apparently, its not in my manual, if you do something like put the car in reverse and leave the tail gate open, the car will know its being jacked and lift the wheel that is being jacked rather than lower it.

Not tried this but have seen comment on this site.

Ian.
  
Post #66256819th Jun 2010 11:53 pm
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Bodsy
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There's loads of different methods I've seen used, I think essentially if you have a door open, the height of the suspension wont chnage (although mine does if the boot only is open) I'd have to have one of the normal doors open for it to stop working on mine Thumbs Up
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Post #66257119th Jun 2010 11:56 pm
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bbyer
 


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Disconnect the negative battery post.

About the only way I know that really keeps the suspension from doing something - anything - is to disconnect the battery.

I have had doors and tail gate open and engine off, and then when jacking, the air let out of all four corners and the 3 came down. I really do not know why, but it scared me.

As best I can determine the downward movement had something to do with the auto level circuit waking up just as I was jacking - just bad timing - but possible at any time.

By disconnecting the battery, the front, rear, and compressor valve blocks are de-energized. As such, the valves fail closed. That tends to lock whatever air is in the springs, in them. it also kills the auto level program as there is no power to the air suspension computer.

The bigger the trolley jack the better, as jacking height, not weight, is the requirement

I have changing the front wheels down to pretty much an art - jack the 3 at the frame behind the front wheel with a trolly jack until it feels that you have the 3 up kind of enough to take the weight off the wheel. I also have a baby 1 ton hydraulic jack that I then insert under the wheel A arm. There is a dimple in the A arm that the 1/2" piston just fits into. I then lift the wheel to where the rubber is just off the ground - usually less than an inch of jacking is required and very little force is put on the A arm.

Then I remove the wheel and then by playing with the baby jack, I can easily adjust the hub height so that the new wheel goes on with virtually no lifting of the replacement wheel.

The rear is a different story - I do much the same, but it is not easy like the front - no real good place for the baby jack, and heights seem to be higher and it is harder to place the jacks and see what is going on.
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Post #66258720th Jun 2010 3:45 am
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Dave T
 


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Costco do a great jack for about £70 wjhich has both the lift capability and the height. It is bloomin heavy though!

I have tried everything to make the whhel rise but never worked so far
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Post #66259620th Jun 2010 7:42 am
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The Transformer
 


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I have a Sealy 3T High Lift.
Excellent sturdy bit of kit and as said above it is not just the weight but also the height of lift that is important with the D3 Thumbs Up
  
Post #66259720th Jun 2010 7:57 am
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DaveT
 


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I manage very nicely with a 2.5t not-very-high-lift, 'cos I don't believe in jacking the chassis.
If you jack the wishbones / lower suspension mount you only need about 2" of lift. See gallery.

I checked with LR service manager, and was advised that this is correct for jacking with trolley jack.
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Post #66269820th Jun 2010 3:01 pm
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ronp
 


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Bodsy wrote:
Yes, you can use a smaller one, but most people have been going for the Clarke 3tonne hi lift one. Not the QL or QuickLift one as that bends apparently. Thumbs Up


Yep excellent jack, I got one, very sturdy, gives great confidence when jacking up the D3.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/...sion-jacks
Click image to enlarge


And as Ian says, DO NOT get QL Quick Lift variants:
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/...sion-jacks
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Post #66270820th Jun 2010 4:15 pm
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J@mes
 


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ronp wrote:

Click image to enlarge




got one of these for my birthday off the missus, great jack!!
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Post #66272020th Jun 2010 4:49 pm
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Vortech
 


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I Have the above, does a good job. Somewhere you can get a insert that allows teh jack to mate properly with the D3 jacking points.
  
Post #66295621st Jun 2010 12:29 pm
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Well thank you all Thumbs Up as usual, immediate and factual replies! Cheers Bow down
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Post #66318221st Jun 2010 8:53 pm
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