gstuart wrote:

PROFSR G wrote:

Great, see how that goes

Hi buddy

Really hope I’ve done this correctly , got it down a dual carriageway, the vibration now starts around 60 mph , took it up to 80 mph and to be honest the vibration didn’t increase but was there, disappears below 55mph

All I’ve done was to mess around with the iAT sensor ( have ordered a new one as not happy with it )

It simply wouldn’t go into limp mode , tried my best but now fault code is turbo underboost

Click image to enlarge

OK so that's a different scenario to the last outing!!

Either you have a boost leak or the VGT actuator is sticking. Clear all the codes and do another test run Gary just like the last one! It might just be lack of use causing the problem. Forget about wiring diagrams or you're going to end up going down every rabbit hole in Kent.

Start with the simple stuff and keep it simple until you have to do otherwise, but if the same codes pops up on the next run it's likely a boost leak or sticky actuator!!

 yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ

 

gstuart wrote:

Ah the joys of ownership and always like throwing a tantrum when it’s bloody cold

Where’s the fun otherwise?
I’m on top of a flatbed bouncing towards beaconsfield service, Someone else will bring us home tomorrow.
This time I’m the one looking inside the cabin of trucks from my car, proper fun
Glad you’re making progress

gstuart wrote:

Hi @DN

To be honest I’m not sure if it’s damaged or not, just when I saw it I ordered a new one as didn’t want to ignore it and find later on it breaks completely and end up at the side of the road

If I’m understanding it correctly it’s like 2 x sensors on one as seen it listed as a Maf / iAT sensor

Looking at the live data the Maf is working but not sure if the iAT is, alas it might not make the slightest difference , just peace of mind

Curious today as it did seem slightly better so wonder if a signal is going into the sensor and not back out ,or something totally different seeing the boost pressure actuator 1 comes up N/A , so will fit it and see if anything has changed

Here’s a pic as well and part number if it ever helps anyone else , plus before I fit the new one am thinking if I can get an ohms reading with the new one disconnected and then compare it with the old one as a comparison , wondered if it acts like a NTC thermistor etc

Sorry I’m waffling again , lol , will of course update this thread after I’ve fitted the new one

Click image to enlarge

Hang on Gary, I know you mentioned previously the IAT sensor, but DN has just made me realise we might be thinking on different pathways here!

Your IAT sensor if I understand your posts correctly seems to be working fine, despite the rudimentary cable ties. My earlier post suggesting "a clean" was for the "MAP sensor" which is a completely different component, albeit it does live next door!
The reason is that the "MAP" sensor holds a very significant influence over the operation of the turbo boost actuator, which the IAT does not!!

If your GAP IID is showing an IAT temp not too far away from the ambient, then it's very likely there's nothing wrong with that sensor! Remove and check the MAP sensor (5 mins), and clean it carb or brake cleaner but don't poke anything into it.

That said, it is beginning to look like a pressure leak based on your latest dtc's. That could mean a hose has split, or possibly one of the manifolds has developed a crack. If it is the latter the smoke tester will then perhaps finally pay it’s way!!!

 yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ

 

DN wrote:

I have fitted one of those inlet housings, but I found I had to blank off that open pipe connection on it, as that is not on my original D3 one. It is used on the D4 I believe. I’m unsure if the sensor will just twist out, if you just wanted to replace that instead of the whole housing. PS, I also had to ‘dremel’ away a bit of the engine cover to clear that pipe stub too. Not sure if you want to go to all that trouble . Good luck with it anyhow

  

PROFSR G wrote:

gstuart wrote:

Hi @DN

To be honest I’m not sure if it’s damaged or not, just when I saw it I ordered a new one as didn’t want to ignore it and find later on it breaks completely and end up at the side of the road

If I’m understanding it correctly it’s like 2 x sensors on one as seen it listed as a Maf / iAT sensor

Looking at the live data the Maf is working but not sure if the iAT is, alas it might not make the slightest difference , just peace of mind

Curious today as it did seem slightly better so wonder if a signal is going into the sensor and not back out ,or something totally different seeing the boost pressure actuator 1 comes up N/A , so will fit it and see if anything has changed

Here’s a pic as well and part number if it ever helps anyone else , plus before I fit the new one am thinking if I can get an ohms reading with the new one disconnected and then compare it with the old one as a comparison , wondered if it acts like a NTC thermistor etc

Sorry I’m waffling again , lol , will of course update this thread after I’ve fitted the new one

Click image to enlarge

Hang on Gary, I know you mentioned previously the IAT sensor, but DN has just made me realise we might be thinking on different pathways here!

Your IAT sensor if I understand your posts correctly seems to be working fine, despite the rudimentary cable ties. My earlier post suggesting "a clean" was for the "MAP sensor" which is a completely different component, albeit it does live next door!
The reason is that the "MAP" sensor holds a very significant influence over the operation of the turbo boost actuator, which the IAT does not!!

If your GAP IID is showing an IAT temp not too far away from the ambient, then it's very likely there's nothing wrong with that sensor! Remove and check the MAP sensor (5 mins), and clean it carb or brake cleaner but don't poke anything into it.

That said, it is beginning to look like a pressure leak based on your latest dtc's. That could mean a hose has split, or possibly one of the manifolds has developed a crack. If it is the latter the smoke tester will then perhaps finally pay it’s way!!!

Apologises , I’ll ensure I also clean the Map sensor as well , to be honest I didnt think that iAT sensor would make any difference , just don’t like the cable ties and would hate for it to start giving me issues down the road

Have got silicone intercooler hoses however u never know ref a split of clamp, most of them I replaced with T bolt clamps but will of course have a further good look around to see if there’s anything obvious , if not will see what that smoke machine shows, assume I would only need a max of around 5 Psi

Will let u know after I’ve fitted the new iAT , cleaned the Map and checked the hoses , etc

Plus hope I can find this Boost pressure actuator - Bank 1 and why it’s coming up N/A, but now have the wiring diagrams and awesome advice , also found a picture of that connector on the turbo , hopefully I won’t need to go there

Thks so much once again

  

gstuart wrote:

Hiya

Many thks and a very good point and wondered that myself , however I got a complete second hand engine wiring loom and fuse box from a D3 HSE , originally bought when I wanted connectors etc to for heated windscreen washer jets which i retrofitted

So looks like that will come in handy yet again

Plus have spent hours going through different wiring diagrams etc , earth connections that go to the ECM are behind the passenger side wheel arch arch liner , just in case I need to check them

Found a picture of those earth leads and don’t know if that tape is covering bare wires or not , located the connector 2274 that’s on the left hand side of the engine bays fuse box

Yeh i know I need to get out more, just spent time trying to find the relevant connectors etc

So grateful for the help, thank u and hopefully this will help someone else when that Boost pressure actuator - Bank 1 comes up N/A

Bits should be here by next week , will fit them and check the connectors at the same time , but to be honest can see me having to going through the loom and belling the wires out end to end at various connectors back to the ECM

Looks like I should be able to back probe the turbo actuator and also can’t ever remember checking the connections on the ECM

Also curious if I do a Canbus test to see if it throws anything up voltage wise ??

Apologises am waffling again , lol , Thks again

 yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ