Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
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WTD - Advice - Building a shed
Need a shed down the bottom of the garden
Advice please on brick or block or wooden
Pros and cons
Pricing and any other advice.
Will be approx 13ft by 14ft. Would prefer it taller than a normal wooden shed so I can put stuff up top as well as hang things.
In a conservation area and its at the bottom of the garden, next to the neighbours boundary
Will have elec running to it (hopefully) so can use as a workshop too.
There's already bits of concrete base but an ex rflower bed that I've filled in with bricks from the small wall I've removed. Do I need to dig foundations through the existing concrete etc or can it be built on top?
Would need it built as well as even my wide experience on many things would not make for a particularly straight wall...
Aesthetics not that important, but could be painted block or block and brick outer or does it need to be double skin or single skin sufficient?
What's best for roof etc
As always, wanting to keep costs to a minimum, but still want it standing in 10 years time!
All advice gratefully received.
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21st Sep 2013 8:29 am
dantheman
Member Since: 12 Mar 2010
Location: Essex
Posts: 1722
I would say timber. Clad with feather edge. Blends in nicely. You could either tile the roof or good quality felt or even profile sheet. Insulate the walls and clad internally with 12mm ply. Good strong shed IMHO!!
21st Sep 2013 8:58 am
disco5
Member Since: 23 Dec 2012
Location: birmingham
Posts: 1088
Morning Bodsy.
Being in a conservation area could be your first problem might need planning permission for either.
Height as your so close to your neighbour max 2.5 meters high if i remember.
Materials its made of if yout in (area of natural outstanding beauty) planner would want samples of cladding if you were using blocks as they proberly wouldnt accept blocks ,maybe bricks (exspensive).
Blocks you would need footings 3ft deep ready mixed concrete plus floor slab.
Wooden shed could be easier as portable building(can be moved easy) might still need planning.
The hardcore bas could be used and lay slabs on top level the build the shed on top ,sheds will come prefabricated only take 3/4 hrs and its up.
Sheds 3x2 frame, cladding 13mm standard ,floor could be 19mm heavy duty,glass windows,treated inside and out.
COSTS block built prob £4k finished..shed half.
21st Sep 2013 9:07 am
dangerdave
Member Since: 23 Nov 2010
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21st Sep 2013 9:11 am
sean 471
Member Since: 26 Apr 2011
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 2990
As said 4 inch foundations should be okay but if its clay then might need a bit more. Also consider a apex roof it offers so much more space to store stuff.
21st Sep 2013 9:24 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
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Posts: 17932
If I had done my research correctly I would have gone for a log-cabin style rather than the typical shed construction as Dave suggests. I bought a high quality security shed but on reflection it will not outlast the log-cabin style.
I put my shed on block paving as it provides good drainage and does not look out of place if I remove the shed. Again, on reflection I should have put down enough pavers for the maximum size I could have ever imagined as I now find myself wishing for a bigger shed than my 8x12. As a result our new Husqvarna ride-on lives in the garage, which wastes precious garage/workshop space.
Member Since: 12 Feb 2013
Location: Fife
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Didn't think you needed planning permission for a shed made of combustible materials ie wood as it can be taken down and removed quite easily. As long as you don't take the p s by having something 60ft long x 30ft wide
If I had the land I would personally go for the agricultural style, block or stone so high then the insulated sheeting above and over the roof
Only my opinion your call as you are the one who has to look at it all the time
Always go bigger than you want as it seems easier to fill a shed than add an extension to it
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21st Sep 2013 1:59 pm
disco5
Member Since: 23 Dec 2012
Location: birmingham
Posts: 1088
Conservation areas theres lot of rules re buildings, even tree houses for the kids can need planning ,a lot of new housing estates can have covenants restrictions on your deeds re sheds and fencing your front boundry line (open plan estate) u can plant hedges though,all rules you never know till you break them .
21st Sep 2013 2:17 pm
d3mad
Member Since: 11 Oct 2012
Location: Tenbury Wells
Posts: 369
Hi Ian,
I would always use shiplap and preferably redwood if possible. Also go for the heavier duty shiplap not the standard as used in smaller sheds. Feather edge / overlap tends to warp and shrink more.
Make base as flat and solid as possible - concrete layer on top of the hardcore ideal or well seated slabs.
Then do still use tantalised external floor bearers to keep shed out of lying water etc.
You could always put rock wool and a lining later if required.
Obviously do check local laws.
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21st Sep 2013 2:41 pm
dangerdave
Member Since: 23 Nov 2010
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21st Sep 2013 6:13 pm
2DISCO3ORNOT
Member Since: 27 Apr 2009
Location: at sea
Posts: 1209
I put a prefabricated timber 12 x 12 up a couple of years ago, all treated softwood with heavier internal stud work, wood is great for ease of shelf hanging and popping a couple of rafters in for the longer stuff to be stored.
I had a concrete slab from a previous shed but three strip foundations 200mm deep would be the norm in my neck of the woods
Bought it off the shelf from a local supplier just under 2K from memory.
Just a side The bigger the shed the more sh*t you will find to fill it
21st Sep 2013 6:29 pm
GlosBoy
Member Since: 16 Oct 2009
Location: Chandlers Ford
Posts: 2444
We live in AAONB and had to apply for planning for a shed if it was over 6x4
And it had to be wood
Had to do the same to put up an open porch which stands 4 feet from the house and they were painful about the wood planking we faced it with
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s by having something 60ft long x 30ft wide
