Swoz3
Member Since: 28 Nov 2010
Location: Bremer Bay Western Australia
Posts: 13
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Clutch symptoms and replacement procedure |
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Hello All,
Checking in on clutch symptoms, and as its likely failed, chasing advice on clutch replacement procedure with body on.
Looking through here and AULRO extensively there is a lot about the dreaded clutch failure of manual gearbox D3's. The symptoms mine has are not reported by others, although I suspect it is clutch failure.
During a long trip I noticed I was unable to easily select a lower gear when slowing down for roadworks on a highway, then that became intermittent, and when it was not cooperating, a scuffing/minor grinding noise was heard in the gearbox area when depressing clutch pedal and attempting to shift gears (light to moderate pressure on gearstick not wanting to force things). When stationary with clutch depressed and in first gear a very slight catching and movement was evident indicating a partial clutch engagement. Drove the car home 180 km without using the clutch by getting the revs right to carefully and smoothly change gears. The yellow EPB fail light came on 2/3 the way home, and was off when started the car the next morning. Does this sound like a stuffed clutch? The car has done a largely uneventful and rewarding 442,000 km, so I expect that the clutch would die at some stage.
I live 550 km from the nearest LR dealer or Indie, my local indie mechanic has an excellent shop and lot of experience with a range of euro cars (but not Land Rovers), is well regarded, and he is willing (in fact keen) to do the clutch replacement. I wanted to get him as much information as possible to help him know what to do. I've found some excellent write ups (thanks to all for those), and reference to a 'body on clutch replacement procedure'. I'm hoping that somebody here might be able to help me access the body on clutch replacement procedure, and maybe other sage advice.
Thanks in anticipation,
Nathan Swoz3
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17th Apr 2018 8:06 am |
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hugeviking
Member Since: 08 Jun 2010
Location: cotswolds
Posts: 1482
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Sorry, not much help as such, when my clutch failed it was as if the pedal was disconected. I replaced the "master cylinder" the one on the clutch pedal in hope it was that but the fault was at the clutch end and i had the work done at a transmission specialist, body on. At the cars mileage, it was perhaps worth changing the pedal cylinder anyway ??
Be aware it is apparently easy to damage a harness that runs near or over the top of the gearbox when removing it, this throws up special programs not available IIRC.
Andi.
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17th Apr 2018 9:24 pm |
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Erea
Member Since: 19 Mar 2012
Location: Munster
Posts: 1509
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Make sure they bolt the crossover pipe bracket back on correctly when finished.
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17th Apr 2018 11:59 pm |
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Swoz3
Member Since: 28 Nov 2010
Location: Bremer Bay Western Australia
Posts: 13
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Clutch replaced and problems since |
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Updating the previous clutch symptoms and replacement post:
Ended up having a Land Rover Indie do the work after further advice. Turned out that the dual mass flywheel had come apart due to a partially seized CV joint in the driveline at the rear diff, which had also worn out the centre bearing.
So, with DMF, clutch, clutch slave unit, centre bearing and rear CV all replaced (body-on method btw) it was going again all fine. However, there is engine oil oozing from the bottom of the bell housing join, and I was wondering if any of you with experience in removing and reinstalling these gearboxes could enlighten me on what might have happened to cause what appears to be a rear main seal leak? Perhaps fitting the gearbox input shaft at an angle or forcing it may have damaged the seal?
I'm taking it back to the indie to have it addressed; but before I take it in, I thought it prudent to seek some sage advice from you all - as there are far more manual gearbox Disco 3's in the UK than down here in Aus - where there's only a few.
Cheers, Nathan Swoz3
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30th Sep 2018 5:17 am |
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